NV Zeno Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Well, after 302,000 miles, my water pump is starting to show preliminary signs of wear:( . Are the "new" or "rebuilt" units listed in NAPA's catalog generally good quality? I could probably find one at the dealer, but if the Beck-Arnley or others are as good at a huge savings, I would feel comfortable with one of those. Experiences, opinions? ('83 EA81 non-turbo) Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVBigBlue Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 NVZ, I replaced the one on my sons hatch with one from autozone. I believe it was about $30. It was a dura-last. I would have liked to get something more "name brand" but this one looked pretty decent and it was the right price. I've put about 6-7K on it so far and no problems. NV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I think I bought mine from Napa, it's seemed to be going right. It didn't help that I broke the radiator in the moonrock parkinglot, but yeah it's holding up real well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 i have a few lying around and am sure if you paid shipping you could have one if you needed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieman Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 302k miles on the original water pump is awesome. I just replaced my water pump with a new one from Napa. Cost was $45. So far so good, but I've only put 2000 miles on it. Only thing I noticed is the pulley was just a little bit farther out then the rest of the system. Doesn’t seem to harm anything and my belt is fine. Good luck with the repair. EA81 water pumps are so dang easy to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted April 7, 2006 Author Share Posted April 7, 2006 How about the small bypass hose? Did the stores (NAPA, Autozone, etc.) have those in stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieman Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 How about the small bypass hose? Did the stores (NAPA, Autozone, etc.) have those in stock? I think I got the crossover at Kragen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 300,000 on the original water pump? Congrates on that one!! Mine went at 53,000 cause it hadnt been driven enough and the bearing dried out. I replaced mine with a genuine subaru water pump. It was 65 bucks if i remember right. Also the dealership told me the average life for these things is 70,000 miles..so yeah you did GOOD!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 OK, I got a new pump, gasket and bypass hose from NAPA, and I have some of the spray copper gasket sealant. I've read the water pump replacement section in the "...Subaru Alive" book and feel I'm ready to go. I've got the tools, nothing outlandish needed. My confidence level is not all that great, I tend to be impatient...been considering calling in a "supervisor" to oversee the job to gain some confidence (Subieman, prepare for a PM:lol: ). I guess I'll post after a successful operation is complete:clap: . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Dave the water pump couldnt be any easier to replace even if it were bolted directly to the top of the motor The impeller is int he pump., and the entire pump sits flush to the motor. As soon as you unbolt the old pump, just give it a good thwak with the backside of your hammer and it should pop right off. Then bolt the new one on.. badabing -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Just be careful not to snap off more than say.... 1 of the 5 bolts. With some RTV they will seal down with 4 of the 5, but the water pump bolts do tend to sieze up easily being exposed to coolant - especially haveing been in there for 300k. I would sugest a good pre-soak in PB Blaster, and then work them back and forth a lot. I like to slightly tighten them first to try and break them free before I turn them out - and if they start getting stuck, then tighten them up a little and try again - work them back and forth to crush the rust and scale. Also make sure to use a little anti-sieze after properly cleaning the bolts with a wire brush. Not trying to scare you - it really is about the easiest water pump to replace..... ever. But we don't want to over-simplify and break something. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Jim Maple Ridge Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Take care that the pullies line up perfectly. The replacement pumps may match the OE specs, but the compressed OE gasket is 2 mm, while most replacement pumps come with thin paper gaskets. They stop the leaks, but the pullies don't line up, belt dies a couple months down the road, probably when you can do the least about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 That's interesting - I've not noticed the pump alignment without the OE gasket - perhaps that's only with some aftermarket pumps.... I seem to recall last time I did the one on my Brat I didn't have a gasket and just used straight RTV - works fine. Have put over 10k on it, and pretty sure I haven't changed the belt. In the case of water pumps, the RTV seems like a good choice even with the gasket - especially the cardboard. Makes removal later a lot easier. I have noticed that the stamped impeller doesn't seem to cool as well as the forged impeller type pumps. If possible get the forged style. I know Discount Import Parts around here sells them but other than that I can't comment. On the topic of mileage - I have seen a lot of EA81's at the junk yard with what appeared to be the original blue painted subaru factory pump. Usually with well over 200k on them. They do seem to last a long, long time. I think premature failure will result from changing/tightening the alternator belt by the maintenance schedule - the tight belt will eventually chew the bearings. Funny that NOT doing the maintenace and having sloppy belt tension has probably made the water pumps last far longer than anticipated. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 ...And that's why I feel the pump has lasted all this time. The belt has always been a little loose, as evidenced by the squealing while in the mud pit at WCSSes and more locally in the cold wet and snow (usually fine in summer, but then again, I never drive this car in summer, no A/C:cool: ). I've changed WP's on my own before, most notably on my (then 2-year-old) '78 Mustang V6: 13 bolts, 3 different wrench sizes, both American and metric bolt heads...all in the pleasant 120-degree Arizona heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Welp, water pump replacement complete:clap: :clap: . Got some Permatex gasket sealant (specific to water pump/thermostat), and dove in..had to do it over a couple of days, the leaning over and reaching down really makes this old back ache:burnout: . So far no leaks. I took it to the spray carwash to get some gunk and grease that has built up off the engine, then to the Post Office to get some mail, and a spin around town to get some heat/pressure built up. No overheat or underheat problem. I'm guessing that since I lost then replaced some coolant during the job, that there'll be some air in the system. I checked the coolant level, it's AOK. Eventually I'll probably have to bleed that air out. Could that be done by just letting the car sit and wait for the air to rise to the top, then open the rad cap to let the air out? This is kind of fuzzy to me, it's been a long time since I've done this and I'm mixing up this car with the Fords and Hondas I've done in the past:drunk: . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Never had to bleed an ea81 they just do it themselves while you pour in the coolant. Id say you are home free just check the level in a few days and watch the temp gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Just be careful not to snap off more than say.... 1 of the 5 bolts. With some RTV they will seal down with 4 of the 5, but the water pump bolts do tend to sieze up easily being exposed to coolant - especially haveing been in there for 300k. I would sugest a good pre-soak in PB Blaster, and then work them back and forth a lot. I like to slightly tighten them first to try and break them free before I turn them out - and if they start getting stuck, then tighten them up a little and try again - work them back and forth to crush the rust and scale. Also make sure to use a little anti-sieze after properly cleaning the bolts with a wire brush. Not trying to scare you - it really is about the easiest water pump to replace..... ever. But we don't want to over-simplify and break something. GD I've broken many a bolt on my EA71, had to helicoil alot after drilling em out. I like using new bolts if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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