bgd73 Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Hey all, I have a bad cam knock and it wont quit (passenger side EGR victim). I looked through manual to take casing that holds cam off and It left me with a few Q's... Can the casing unbolt where engine sits? Is there bearings for cam , or do i need new casing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 marvel mystery oil add one quart but before that how high is your oil pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 is it not tapping? you're sure it's knocking? if it's knocking and not the HLA's then it's not likely that a cam swap will fix the problem. you can pull the valve cover and turn the motor over by hand to make sure all the cam lobes and such are working fine. if you need to replace the cam, there are no cam bearings, you'd have to replace the entire cam assembly. the cam rides on bearing housings built into the cam case, which is just a machined surface with oil ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 I don't have a gauge at all , but did learn I can put one in . I thought at first intuition the ecm used the dummy light unit but it doesn't. I'm sure it is good, I had to tighten the valve covers to stop really powerful leak and engine doesn't smoke (true clean pressure vs. blowby) . It is most definately a low heavier top end knock, lash adjusters still do a great job of keeping valve train quiet. I also found 10w30 is recommended above 0F... I havent swapped out the 5w30 castrol syntec for warmer weather. Will try that first and hope for the best. I can't use 10w30 in winter here, it may as well be transmission gear oil by the time mid-winter comes. I forgot all about the weight to use in warmer weather (6 months of cold and I tend to forget alot of things) I hope It won't stay knockin once I change oil.. it stays so close to good, the oil must fix it (I hope). A 180F thermostat seems to be in order too... If it don't work I will post again, thanks for replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RONAN Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Don`t make the same mistake I made. I thought that I`d blown the engine because of a loud knock. I even took it to the dealership to confirm and they huddled around and speculated by listening that it was everything from a wrist pin to a connecting rod. I went ahead and had a friend pull the engine and replace with another. Turned out to be nothing more than a timing belt idler bearing had exploded. Investigate all avenues before pasting judgement. It might save you money.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 excellent point.I too almost gave up to valves that wouldn't stop knocking tapping. as it turned out, the engine did it when less than 1qt down on oil, and stopped when adding half a quart.I never did verify that dipstick had mistake. Imagine scrapping an engine because of a dipstick? (no pun intented) :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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