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No power past 4grand.


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Whatsup? Car kinda just loses its guts. In 1st gear I can get it to skate to 4500. 5000 is worthless. Once i shift out of 1st gear, no point in trying to go past 4000rpm. Seems like ALL my power is between 1700-3500. Full boost doesnt help, doesnt even seem like its trying to pull when i have it at WOT.

 

The other day I came off a red light. Tried to hot rod it, and it screamed past 1st gear, as soon as i shifted into 2nd and held it at WOT the engine just kinda went BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH... no real power at all. Major hesitation, until i let off the throttle.

 

Seems I have to be easy on the peddle and gradually increase the throttle as the motor speeds up. But again, once Im at 4k i am forced to shift.

 

What Gives?

-Brian

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8" gash in the cat!!!:eek:

that sounds like the first place I would check. Cats that get damaged tend to break up and plug up the flow. remove it and take it for a quick straight pipe run. see how it does.

that fuel pump was fairly new when I got that car.

fuel filter pluged?

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Fuel filter was replaced in September... car died in November and took a 6month break. So the filter should still be good.

 

I didnt think about the cat comming apart and clogging things up. I cant really disconnect it, my entire exhaust is 1 piece. I'd have to unbolt it from the turbo, but then it would hang and drag on the ground.

 

-Brian

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Fuel filter was replaced in September... car died in November and took a 6month break. So the filter should still be good.

 

I didnt think about the cat comming apart and clogging things up. I cant really disconnect it, my entire exhaust is 1 piece. I'd have to unbolt it from the turbo, but then it would hang and drag on the ground.

 

-Brian

 

sawsall :grin:

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:eek: not on my brand new exhaust!!! However, i do have a custom catless 2.5" downpipe ive been meaning to put on. It has enough pipe at the end to cover the 2nd cat (the one with a gash). Only problem is finding a shop that'll do it. I know of one, but i dont like the guys welds. Maybe he's improved in the past couple years.

 

Oh, and it builds boost just fine.

 

-Brian

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what is the timing set at? perhaps it is set too low? the distributor and ecu will autoatically knock back the tiing as necessary, but could only increase to the amount set initially.

 

not turbo related but power related as far as the disty is concerned, on mmy spfi sedan after last years subaru alliance off road meet, my car seemed rather boggy and had no rpm power. pulled over and had a look, the disty set screw was loose and the distributor retarded itself from its own rotation.

 

bumped it back up and the car was normal again

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I had this very same question. Upon a little knowledge of my own v8 building I came up with this... CAM and INTAKE and heat that kills it like an rpm limiter. In a v8 that did same things (no high rpm power, like my subaru) I changed cam and kept factory intake (something I would love to do on an ea82). On old cam the top end of engine got hot,after beating on car. On new cam gaining several thousand hard thumping rpm, the top end got cooler and gained more air to have more power (all while staying cooler!----never to suicide flow again).

I could only think of making top end cool for ea82 to have a non-suicidal gain for higher rpm. drop thermostat, kill egr, open exhaust in strategic place (too much will kill limited fuel flow) all on oem intake.

I freakishly hit 6500 rpm spinning mud off the tires and it occurred to me the car was inbetween full temp and cold. Keeping intake cold is about all one could do. so , needless to say, I unintentionally found it to be heat (among all the usual pursuits for good running engine). Even fuel pump heating up is a killer, and on a car that is 30mpg design, it is easy to find these backed up heat makers (cool fuel cools the pump, etc etc).

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I had this very same question. Upon a little knowledge of my own v8 building I came up with this... CAM and INTAKE and heat that kills it like an rpm limiter. In a v8 that did same things (no high rpm power, like my subaru) I changed cam and kept factory intake (something I would love to do on an ea82). On old cam the top end of engine got hot,after beating on car. On new cam gaining several thousand hard thumping rpm, the top end got cooler and gained more air to have more power (all while staying cooler!----never to suicide flow again).

I could only think of making top end cool for ea82 to have a non-suicidal gain for higher rpm. drop thermostat, kill egr, open exhaust in strategic place (too much will kill limited fuel flow) all on oem intake.

I freakishly hit 6500 rpm spinning mud off the tires and it occurred to me the car was inbetween full temp and cold. Keeping intake cold is about all one could do. so , needless to say, I unintentionally found it to be heat (among all the usual pursuits for good running engine). Even fuel pump heating up is a killer, and on a car that is 30mpg design, it is easy to find these backed up heat makers (cool fuel cools the pump, etc etc).

:confused:

 

I dont quite folow the logic. An EA82T being a turbo car has lots of heat to deal with for sure. Brian has an intercooler and a (hopefully) higher flow exhaust. His car should be able to wind out to red line with no problem. my wagon has its max power between 3500 and 7500 rpm with the mods it has. My RX is still rather untested as its not legally registered but short test runs have shown plenty of power above 4000 RPM. brians car would seem to have an actual problem not a design limitation.

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Miles... right now my timing is set at 20-21 degrees. I used to have it set at 18 degrees, and it seems setting my timing up to 21 only helps alittle.

 

BGD73... i doubt it's my cams. My intake temps should be through the roof, but yeah... its turbo'd, so thats to be expected. I havent installed the intercooler just yet. I want to change my BPV setup before I put the IC back on there.

 

-Brian

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It sound to me like your TPS mine is acting up right now to. I took it off cleaned it it helped one part of the throttle and made another part worse you dont have to remove it to just try cleaning the the plug on top of the TPS the plug has a Wire holding it on.

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My first thought was also clogged cat. never had one in a Subie, but had a 79 Accord (cute car, but not a Subie) that acted the same way you describe. Another possibility is the air intake assembley could be a little loose. causing loss of power at higher RPMs. I would double check all the air intake hoses from the air filter to the air injection unit, just to be on the safe side.

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