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I'm looking for ideas to get me better times while still remaining in H stock. What would be a good tire. Even with the crappy geolanders I still beat a few cars. I have been running 2 psi less in the rear tires and that helps the front get a little more bite. I was thinking about doing some suspension adjustments for race days. Can I cut my exhaust off and still remain in H stock? My guess is that would not be allowed but I don't know.

 

Your prolly wondering why go through that much trouble to remain in H but imagine getting a worse time than a Forester X. It's a wagon that is }-{ <this far from being an SUV. Besides I'm having a blast with bald tires and no boost.

d.

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Ok, I might be able to help here since my old man and I auto-x his WRX a lot. First off, what model are you using? This will affect how much you need to adjust your tire pressures. I'm assuming its a forester, but I can't read minds. :) The first "mod" I would do is more seat time. Seriously, there is nothing better than more experience behind the wheel of your car for getting better lap times. After that there isn't much you can do and still stay in stock class. Upgrading the stock tires is the best bang for the buck you can do to improve lap times. A front anti roll bar is legal as is an axle back exhaust. Struts are unlimited as long as they are stock replacements (KYB AGXs are popular). After that, have your suspension adjusted to get as much negative camber as the stock eccentric bolts will give you (Tipping the guy doing the adjusting will usually get you any settings you want). Hope some of this stuff helps in your racing! Oh and we usually run 40psi front and a little lower in the rear depending on how much scrub we have in front and how much wiggle there is in the rear.

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I've raced my Outback before.

http://www.swvrscca.org/2006Results/March06Class.htm < Class results

http://www.swvrscca.org/2006Results/March06PAX.htm < PAX Results

 

 

The best tip I got is have someone thats been doing it a while ride with you the first two runs, then do the last run solo. Also, take all the weight out of course (I didnt on my first run). And just get a lot more seat time before spending any real money on your wagon.

 

Stay frosty. :headbang:

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In general for stock classes the shocks and front sway bar are open (meaning they can be changed) and that's about it. Brake pads are generally open too but you can't run drilled/slotted rotors. Also, any DOT legal tire should be fine.

 

So if you really want to get the most out of your Forester I'd suggest Kuhmo 710s on stock (or stock sized) rims, whatever the best shock available for a Forester is (I dunno how much of the WRX stuff crosses over, but you can not run a full coil-over so I'm talking about a good double adjustable standard style shock), and a nice large front bar to help combat the big body roll that mini-SUV is going to have on the 710s (again, I dunno if you can use WRX stuff or what).

 

But like others have said: seat time is your biggest mod!

 

-TJ

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This is some good stuff. I haven't been around for a while so I didn't even snap about my sig not being at the bottom with car info. -04 Forester X- So I'm getting new tires soon and I'll put my car on the lift befor the next auto X and rejust the camber. But before that is the Rally X:banana: .

 

Is there any offical documentation on how to class cars for auto X? I was thinking about down sizing the battery to save weight. How many Duracells does it take to crank a 2.5?

 

I have a trike pic of the forester somewhere I'll dig it up and post it.

d.

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This is a good thread to ask my question.

 

I've only autoX'ed my own car once, and that was the 03 Subaru Challenge with my XT. Since I've modded it in no way whatsoever, I was in G-stock.

 

My Legacy, on the other hand, has some "mods" done to it, but they're all with OEM Subaru parts. I've replaced the rear 16mm swaybar with a swaybar from a 91 Legacy Turbo, which is 18mm. I've also replaced my stock springs with stock 04 WRX springs.

 

If I'm reading the SCCA rules right, I'm in ST (Street Touring) class thanks to the springs, and maybe the swaybar too. I have GR2's on it as well, but those are direct replacement, so they don't matter.

 

If that's true, that kinda sucks, coz I'm still a novice, and that puts me in a class of much more capable cars than ol' Patti. :(

 

But as carfreak said, I'm gonna try to learn how to drive professionally and not worry about competing as much, because once I become a really good driver, I WILL be competitive with my Legacy, as it is.

 

Any insight would be most appreciated!

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