7point62fmj Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 I dont know if any one is interested or not but my amsoil dealer was telling me about a service they offer. They sale a kit that (roughly 22 dollars) checks your oil to see how your motor is holding up. the way it works is the kit has a extractor that you put down in to your motor and then fill up a test jar with oil and then you ship it to there lab. Shipping is pre-paid. Then you get back a oil finding report on the wear of your motor. We used to use test like these on our millitary vechicals. If you are interested let me know I can get you in contact with him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 I dont know if any one is interested or not but my amsoil dealer was telling me about a service they offer.They sale a kit that (roughly 22 dollars) checks your oil to see how your motor is holding up. I did that a few times when I first tried Amsoil. I use it in all my cars & equipment. My 90 Loyale got Amsoil 100% synthetic 10W-40, bypass filter, and their air and oil filters at 15K miles, 2 years old. I ran that engine for at least 150K miles, changed / cleaned filters 1/year. Added oil as needed, never changed. Pulled it apart to replace all of the seals & gaskets due to oil leaks. Crank and connecting rod bearings, wrist pins all still in factory spec. Factory hone marks still visible on cylinder walls. It has less wear than the other 2 I resealed. They had more miles when I got them & converted them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 I use AMSOIL ...and love it. As far as the oil analysis kit goes... I don't think it will tell anything about wear on our old high-mileage motors. I think that requires detecting metal particles. Much more useful for newer (and less durable) engines. My EA82T still had factory crasshatching at 230K miles. The kit WOULD be very handy to test oil condition. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 That is the first time I've seen anything about an engine piss test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan86GL10 Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I'm an AMSOIL dealer and they use Oil Analyzers for the mail in kits. You can order direct from http://www.oaitesting.com/prices.htm as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I definately would be up for trying it out.I have used synthetic amsoil in the past on my 2stroke dirtbike and snowmachine and I have always been happy with the products offered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgregory Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I'v heard a lot of good things about running Amsoil and other synthetics, I'v also heard that you shoud not run synthetics in higher mile engines if they have always had regular oil, due to the difference in wear, and the possibility of leaks. Anyone know if there is any truth to that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 i've heard of increased oil consumption and other problems and definatly not to use it in high milage engines i'd like to see documentation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan86GL10 Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I've put full synthetic in cars from 0 miles to 150,000 miles with out any issues. The theory is that since sythetic cleans your motor out, it dissolves crud that is currently holding the oil in (at compromised seals). I would think Seafoam would behave similarily. Has anyone ever had a problem with Seafoam? Its going into my Soob as soon as that motor swap is done. The donor motor has 80,000 miles on it. I don't have any first hand experience at 200K+ which is more common with these motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceMan Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 For some reason subaru motors have a really tough cylinder wall. I actually have yet to pull apart a subaru motor that I COULDENT see the factory crosshatch in the cylinder walls. everything from 100K to 300K motors -Mike I did that a few times when I first tried Amsoil. I use it in all my cars & equipment. My 90 Loyale got Amsoil 100% synthetic 10W-40, bypass filter, and their air and oil filters at 15K miles, 2 years old. I ran that engine for at least 150K miles, changed / cleaned filters 1/year. Added oil as needed, never changed. Pulled it apart to replace all of the seals & gaskets due to oil leaks. Crank and connecting rod bearings, wrist pins all still in factory spec. Factory hone marks still visible on cylinder walls. It has less wear than the other 2 I resealed. They had more miles when I got them & converted them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 SOAP sample. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 86 turbo wagon (ea82t) 20w50 with a half quart of marvel mystery oil at every change.. at 300k everything was in spec.. even the crosshatchings in the cylinders.. don't need amsoil waste of money lol... same car had amsoil in the trans... every gear whined so loud the stereo couldn't drown it out.. so i changed the tranny.. bad bad amsoil.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 The theory is that since sythetic cleans your motor out, it dissolves crud that is currently holding the oil in (at compromised seals). The highest I converted had 60-80K miles. No change in consumption or leaks in any I put Amsoil in. After some number of hours at high temperatures, the seals get hard and leak. Never saw any crud built up where it owould help a seal. The hard crispy rubber scrapes the shaft shiny. One of the engines I put synthetic in was pretty gunky, it cleaned the gunk out.. Not sure, as it was a long time ago, but maybe a year or so when I took it apart for some other reason, it was all clean inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan86GL10 Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 don't need amsoil waste of money lol... Not if you use the extended drain intervals. It can be cheaper in the long run. same car had amsoil in the trans... every gear whined so loud the stereo couldn't drown it out.. so i changed the tranny.. bad bad amsoil.. Because oils are supposed to cover up mechanical problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 I'v heard a lot of good things about running Amsoil and other synthetics, I'v also heard that you shoud not run synthetics in higher mile engines if they have always had regular oil, due to the difference in wear, and the possibility of leaks. Anyone know if there is any truth to that? From amisols own web site http://www.advanced-synthetics.com/amsoil_what_products.htm NOTE: If your vehicle has over 100 or 110,000 miles on it or is more than 9 or 10 years old, and you are not currently using another synthetic oil, you may not wish to switch over to AMSOIL. Vehicles with such high mileage may have dry, cracked seals and gaskets. Having used conventional oils for so long (even with 3,000 mile oil changes), the sludge and deposits from oil burn-off may have caused a build-up to occur which is plugging the gaps around these seals and gaskets and preventing leaks. What I never agree with is using an engine flush, or any chenical flush in an engine. If the engine is running fine, why mess with it. For some reason they say to use an egnie flush first, and thats the first i heard of it. Secondly they say even if you dont flush it, the oil may still disolve the gunk holding the seals together and cause leaks. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 don't need amsoil waste of money lol... I wouldn't use it without the bypass, and the other filters, and no changes. And, of course, no excessive leaks or burning. I did the math years ago, (could dig it up again) but under those conditions, Amsoil is cheaper than 3000 mile changes. I do not miss changing oil. I have no experience with turbos, but I have had no ill effects with any of the 4 non-turbo GLs / Loyales I have / had, and run with it. same car had amsoil in the trans... every gear whined so loud the stereo couldn't drown it out.. so i changed the tranny.. That must have been a bad tranny or wrong oil. When I had my 76 & 78 Subies, they shifted much better (especially in cold weather) with the synthetic gear lube. The shifter moved as easily at 0 degrees as middle of summer. I occasionally towed 1000lbs with those cars. The 76 had almost 250Kmiles when the body rotted in half. The only reason I stopped driving it. The 3spd ATs in the GLs & Loyales all shift better when cold with the synthetic ATF. I ocasionally tow with them, also. The only tranny repairs have been vacume modulators. I Changed the ATF at about 100K miles. The GL / Loyale experience is based on 3 cars, over 100K miles on each car, by me or my wife. None were driven lightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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