How to conquer the wheel bearing.

[tcspeer]

(1997 Subaru Legacy Wagon) I replaced the front wheel bearing with a spindle and hub assembly from the wrecking yard, I then took the old spindle and hub and pressed it apart removed everything cleaned it up and greased it. I then put it back together with a new bearing. I took it apart again and found it was very easy with everything cleand and greased. So this time when I put it back together I left the seals off so I could see and feel how everything works. If you would like to do your own wheel bearing, I think this is a good way to learn. Jamie gave me a good link with pictures from the other board, that would be helpful if anyone wants to try it. You will need a small press and a bearing seperator but this costs less then one wheelbearing job at a shop.

[frag]

I know I will have to do this sooner or later and I'm slowly getting readiy for it.

I read everything here, I bookmarked the link you're talking about and

I already bought a 12 ton press cheap.

What I would like to learn from you is the size of the sockets you used to press out and in the hub and the bearing itself. They are probably too big to already be in my socket kit.

Thanks for reporting back.

[tcspeer]

#1 Turn spindle face down so you are looking at the transmission side and use a flat tip screwdriver to remove seal, work around in circle.

#2 You can now push hub out without removing the snap ring that holds the outer race. I was able to push it out with no adapters as the shaft on my press which is the 20 ton Harbor Freight model is 1-1/2 in. or 37.75. You will need to get you a couple of 4x4 blocks to hold spindle up high enough to allow the hub room to get out.

#3 Remove the snap ring on transmission side of spindle (or inside of spindle) with a small screwdriver or snap ring plyiers.

#4 set the spindle back on blocks with the wheel side up, I used a 2-1/2 in steel coupling from lumber yard to push the race out, you must push it from the wheel side to the trans. side

#5 Take your new bearing assm. apart and clean and regrease with high temp. grease then put it back together with the plactic peice back in center, then press it in spindle from the trans. side. I used the old race to press the new assm. back in. It will seat up aganist the the lip inside of spindle and then you will have room to put the snap ring back in.

#6 remove the outer bearing from the hub with bearing removeing tool around 20.00 dollars from Harbor Freight.

#7 Install outer seal on spindle with rubber lip facing towards the wheel

#8 My press came with two plates that have different cut outs around them, on one end of each plate is a half circle if you butt these two ends together the hub will fit perfect, and be high enough not to damaged the wheel studs when you press the spindle back on hub.

#9 Set the hub down on the plates with shaft sticking up, or use 2x4s if your plates are not like mine. Then set the spindle on the hub shaft, transmission side up.( leave the plactic insert in, the hub shaft will push it out.) I used a 3/4 drive Blackhawk 1-7/8 in. socket to press the bearing and spindle onto the hub shaft. If you have things cleaned and greased it will slide together easy and you will feel it stop when it get totally on. The dim. of the 1-7/8 socket I used is 2-1/2 in. or 65 mm.

#10 replace inside seal.

#11 I would still suggest that you get a spindle and hub assm. from wrecking yard and then you will have plenty of time to practice with your old one.

#12 When you take your old hub and spindle off be sure and mark your top strut bolt at 12 o'clock with the strut flange. This bolt must be retighten back at this same location so you will not lose the alinement. I did not understand this so I had to have my alinement redone. When the bolt is out you will see it is not round on the inside dia. so depening on where it is will set the angle of spindle.

I know I will have to do this sooner or later and I'm slowly getting readiy for it.

I read everything here, I bookmarked the link you're talking about and

I already bought a 12 ton press cheap.

What I would like to learn from you is the size of the sockets you used to press out and in the hub and the bearing itself. They are probably too big to already be in my socket kit.

Thanks for reporting back.

[tcspeer]

To push hub out use 1-1/2 in. or 37.75

Use 2-1/2 in. or 65mm to push bearing assm. back on hub.

I know I will have to do this sooner or later and I'm slowly getting readiy for it.

I read everything here, I bookmarked the link you're talking about and

I already bought a 12 ton press cheap.

What I would like to learn from you is the size of the sockets you used to press out and in the hub and the bearing itself. They are probably too big to already be in my socket kit.

Thanks for reporting back.

[frag]

I'm bookmarking this.

That's a lot more than I asked for !

Thanks a million !

[cookie]

Sounds pretty normal TC. We don't have to worry much about rust here in CA so when I have to do mine I expect it to be fairly easy.

[tcspeer]

Mine came apart easy also, rust is not to bad here.

Sounds pretty normal TC. We don't have to worry much about rust here in CA so when I have to do mine I expect it to be fairly easy.

[frag]

Sounds pretty normal TC. We don't have to worry much about rust here in CA so when I have to do mine I expect it to be fairly easy.

 

It will not be so easy up here. Rust is ennemy no 1 in Montreal.

[cookie]

Yep, I thing Frag may run into those issues about rusted seal areas and such. This area is so easy on wheel bearings I ran my last car 17 years and sold it with no problems, and my Forester with its stupid ball bearings is doing fine at 126,000. I suspect that if this car was run in salt and cold those bearings would be bad now, but my cars don't get the daily work out TCs do.

I put the Forester on a rare perfect patch of tar the other day and coasted it with no noise at all. Today I am going to rotate tires and inspect the rear brakes so I'll see if there is any play, but I doubt it.

[Dragonsube]

Great post! I need to do my left front and this helps alot. Anyone know what size socket is used to get the axle nut off?

[frag]

Great post! I need to do my left front and this helps alot. Anyone know what size socket is used to get the axle nut off?

 

32mm or 1 1/4 "

[Tommymc]

I have never done a wheel bearing, but I can add one observation. I live in the land of salt and snow, and have found that Subarus seem to eat wheel bearings. The local Subaru gurus have theorized that the interface between the bearing and the CV joint(?) gets pitted, and causes the bearings to fail. They get used CVs from California and replace them at the same time as the bearings. Otherwise the new bearings can fail after as little as 10k-15k.

[tcspeer]

Artistic-gore, i dont know how to link to the other post but this may help you.