95 Impreza LX (Please Help - I'm scared)

[Jutboy]

Hey all....thanks for running such a great forum. I need your help bad.

 

I just bought a 2.2 95 Impreza LX and brought it in to get the timing belt changed. I then was told this stuff had to be done to it.

 

1)Tranfer Clutches ($750) - My car doesn't rattle at all around ANY turns but they said it was bad and could destroy my transmission + driveshaft

2)Vent plate + gasket ($690) - Said they had to drop the transmission to get at at it...,also said the one I had was plastic? I couldn't find it when I looked.

ALSO)Right rear Camshaft plug + o-ring, Left front cam carrier o-ring and seal, crank seal, lower timeing cover gasket and oil fill o-ring NC with VC gaskets. ($200 for all)

 

Well that didn't make me feel good so my questions is...

 

1)How urgent is any of this? I looked around under the car and there is some oil stains but nothing soo bad and its got 106k on it...I don't expect it to be clean. No smells at all.

 

2)What can I do my self? I am pretty handy with cars and have some knowledge friends that said they'd help me pull the engine no problem if I wanted.

 

3)Can someone explain the methods to get the crankshaft pulley + sprocket off.....I tried putting two screws through the holes in the pulley but the plastic timing belt cover blocked them, I don't understand center punch on the flywheel and

 

4)Is the census to get all subaru gaskets/seals...I mean, why did they die so quick on mine....I also heard of the right stuff by permatex, what your thoughts?

 

5)Lastly, Am I being scammed at the dealership?

 

Any ideas/thoughts/cautions would be soooo appreciated.

 

Jutboy

[1 Lucky Texan]

Hey all....thanks for running such a great forum. I need your help bad.

 

I just bought a 2.2 95 Impreza LX and brought it in to get the timing belt changed. I then was told this stuff had to be done to it.

 

1)Tranfer Clutches ($750) - My car doesn't rattle at all around ANY turns but they said it was bad and could destroy my transmission + driveshaft

2)Vent plate + gasket ($690) - Said they had to drop the transmission to get at at it...,also said the one I had was plastic? I couldn't find it when I looked.

ALSO)Right rear Camshaft plug + o-ring, Left front cam carrier o-ring and seal, crank seal, lower timeing cover gasket and oil fill o-ring NC with VC gaskets. ($200 for all)

 

Well that didn't make me feel good so my questions is...

 

1)How urgent is any of this? I looked around under the car and there is some oil stains but nothing soo bad and its got 106k on it...I don't expect it to be clean. No smells at all.

 

2)What can I do my self? I am pretty handy with cars and have some knowledge friends that said they'd help me pull the engine no problem if I wanted.

 

3)Can someone explain the methods to get the crankshaft pulley + sprocket off.....I tried putting two screws through the holes in the pulley but the plastic timing belt cover blocked them, I don't understand center punch on the flywheel and

 

4)Is the census to get all subaru gaskets/seals...I mean, why did they die so quick on mine....I also heard of the right stuff by permatex, what your thoughts?

 

5)Lastly, Am I being scammed at the dealership?

 

Any ideas/thoughts/cautions would be soooo appreciated.

 

Jutboy

 

It is possible they are trying to 'upsell you' but it seems the other items they mentionare legit(some of the terms seem odd though). Generally, if you are paying someone else for the labor of diving under the timong covers, it IS best to overhaul/replace everything under there.

 

I'd have a converstaion with them, explain that you're not able to afford everything they suggest and ask them which items are gonna be the best to spend money on immediately. If the seem uninterested in helping you make that decision - definitely take the car elsewhere.

 

While oil leaks are unwanted, they are tolerable. But its a real bummer to pay for a timing belt and have the water pump or idler bearing seize up 8,000 miles later cause you 'cheaped out'.

 

Carl

[lmdew]

The T-belt, cam and crank seals, water pump and oil pump o-ring will cost about $200 for the parts. It's a day job if all goes well and you can do it. That will take care of the front oil leaks.

 

The oil seperator plate on the rear of the engine does require either the engine or trans to be pulled. The metal plate is $12.00 and some RTV.

Labor is the major job here.

 

The transfer clutch soleniod can be accessed from the rear of the trans. You can check it by putting the fuse in the FWD fuse block, right rear of the engine compartment. With the fuse installed, you should have the FWD indicator on you dash.

 

Is you AT Temp light flashing 16 times when you start the car? If so you have a code stored in the TCU.

 

If you take your time and do the research up front all these jobs can be done by a DIY Mechanic. If you don't know which way to turn the nut to get it off or are not willing to read the manual and understand the procedure its best left to the shop.

[Jutboy]

Well I'm certainly not afraid of hard work and wasting my time.

 

Also there are no flashing temp lights.

 

The stealership said they couldn't help me at all make my decisions and repeated multiple times "we can't predict the future". Can I put this off for about 6-8 weeks untill I get summer break (I'm a teacher) and can spend a couple days straight working on it?

 

Also I've found some good guides on doing the t-belt, and I have the generic 1985-1996 chiltons manual and the legacy 90-98 haynes manual...are there anything other resources I should get.

 

Does anyone one have a manual they can email me @ Justin -at- PleaseSignUp.com?

 

I can't find much information on the Tranfer Clutches + Vents (what is RTV???)

 

Thanks much - Jutboy!!!!!

[frag]

If you have no binding on turns and if AWD works OK I dont see why you should have the transfer clutches replaced. Ask them how they came to the conclusion that it needed replaced.

The "vent" or separator plate is sometimes cause of an oil leak between the engine and transmission. Unless you're loosing a lot of oil (you say there's nut much oil underneath) it usually can wait to be replaced.

My two cents.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Well I'm certainly not afraid of hard work and wasting my time.

 

Also there are no flashing temp lights.

 

The stealership said they couldn't help me at all make my decisions and repeated multiple times "we can't predict the future". Can I put this off for about 6-8 weeks untill I get summer break (I'm a teacher) and can spend a couple days straight working on it?

 

Also I've found some good guides on doing the t-belt, and I have the generic 1985-1996 chiltons manual and the legacy 90-98 haynes manual...are there anything other resources I should get.

 

Does anyone one have a manual they can email me @ Justin -at- PleaseSignUp.com?

 

I can't find much information on the Tranfer Clutches + Vents (what is RTV???)

 

Thanks much - Jutboy!!!!!

 

This is a great resource and I THINK you could do some searches here (pay attention to crank pulley torque values) and maybe a coupla other places on the web, look at some photos and start buying parts from an on-line dealer (http://www.subarugenuineparts.com is one) maybe even locate someone in you area willing to come 'observe' in exchange for a six pack of Modelo Especiale or something!

 

I say. wait and diy - whatever that's worth.

 

Carl

[cookie]

that stuff has to be done sometime, but monitor oil use closely and do it when you can afford it.

In SF I see a lot of Subarus that don't know what maintence is and if they keep oil and water in them they run.

[nipper]

Ok with a timing belt you do watermpump, cam and main seals, tensioner.

Do NOT have the clutch packs done. Since you had no complaint, there is no need to get them done. Also its going to cost you 750 today, or next week, it doesnt matter. First flush the tranny and ill bet whatever they perceive as an issue will go away.

I am always suspicous of a dealership or shop that finds things that i was not complaing about. Torque bind is very obvious, i dont like the fact they recomended that.

Ask yourself, do you leak oil? If you dont, dont do the plate unless you have an oil leak issue.

The fact they "cant predict the future", then they are bulls*****g you .

RUN from that dealership do not walk. They are trying to intimidate you.

You can do all the front work yourself. The clutch pack i think is BS. Like i said flush the trannny, in an automatic 90% of the time that will clear up any issues, and your tranny will operate like a rebuild.

RTV is a silicone sealant.

 

nipper