Timing belt replace on 2.2--a couple of puzzles...

[79er]

I've nearly finished up doing a timing belt replace on a '92 Legacy (2.2 liter engine). Threads on this site and info on the EndWrench site were all a great help. I also checked a factory manual for the "official" word on the procedure and was puzzled by two steps the factory includes: 1) the service manual seems to think the tensioner bracket should be removed (and replaced) -- my experience was it seemed fine to just leave it in place. Anyone have a thought as to why removal would be recommended?

 

2) In the last steps of the new belt install procedure after the pin is removed from the belt tension adjuster, the manual states: "After properly installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air." If proper procedure is followed--that is--not rotating the cams or the crank while the belt is off the engine, why would the valve adjuster have any air in it, any more than it would have air in it with the vehicle just sitting parked? And if it does have air, shouldn't it settle down after an hour or so of operation as I believe the manual suggests might be required if the entire valve rocker assembly has been removed and then replaced? In short, is this recommendation good practice, or overkill?

 

Woody

[DerFahrer]

I've done timing belts on EJ22's 4 times, and I've never even touched the HLA's, and twice I've done them without removing the tensioner bracket.

 

As long as you lined the marks up right, reinstalled everything correctly, and (this is important) put at least 100 ft-lbs of torque on the crank pulley bolt - the 80 ft-lb spec in the FSM's is incorrect and too low - you should be set to go.

[lmdew]

Yep, what he said. Lots of 2.2 t-belts, never had a problem with the bracket or lifters.

 

Make sure your using the crank mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the gear! This is the most common mistake and then you get to do it all over again.

[idosubaru]

If proper procedure is followed--that is--not rotating the cams or the crank while the belt is off the engine,

the marks should always be used to line up the cam and crank pulleys when installing the timing belt. removal of the belt and assuming the cam/crank maintain exact position for an install is not accurate. you wrote this in reference to the HLA's so you are probably doing it right. i have seen people remove the belts, kept everything "in-line" and reinstalled the belts without ever checking the marks. this method usually fails as the cam/crank only has to slightly drift to be off one tooth.

 

like the others said, you are correct about those other steps being overkill. waaaay overkill i might add. verify no air in the HLA??? that is a weird one. the old generation EA82 and ER27's don't have that step eventhough they have HLA's.

[DerFahrer]

Make sure your using the crank mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the gear! This is the most common mistake and then you get to do it all over again.

 

My God, yes! Imagine how stupid I felt after doing this on my grandpa's wagon, and that was after I'd already done two previous EJ22 belt changes successfully!