pos009 Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 So a little while ago, my the silencer on the driver-side air suction valve had a meltdown. After about 5 minutes' research on this board, I found the ol' quarter trick mentioned, and plugged mine up. Car ran, but really rough, until I finally got around to plugging up the other side. Now she's a smooth idler and runner, but I feel like I've dropped about 30% of my power in the low RPMs. I really have to gun it to get started on a hill, and the clutch is starting to shudder a little, even (maybe due wear from these hard starts). FYI, I did notice a bolt missing on one of my exhaust pipe flanges during all this... so minor exhaust leaks are at play too. Does such a thing ring any bells? Power loss after the 50cent fix? Should I try to repair the reed valve (the whole thing fell apart sometime after the meltdown) and replace the silencer properly? Am I missing something else? Thanks for any tips! OH!- and recommendations for pick-a-parts or Subie parts places (besides Carter) in the Seattle area would be MUCH appreciated! (Is the Jason of Auburn Subie fame from Auburn, WA?) 84 GLSW 4WD -Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 No - they are not related to power. But your exhaust leak is. No exaust scavenging. Fix your leaks. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Something is stuck in the carburator. It needs to either be removed manually or you need to get the engine real warm and hope it melts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 thanks, guys. i'll see what i can see in the carb, and start isolating and repairing the leaks as i can... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Shawn has a good point - might be that your secondary barrel is jammed closed by melted silencer. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos009 Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 Thanks for the tips! i'm back after a weekend of the planned and impromptu repairs... while snooping around the EGR and carb looking for loose lines, and melted chunks, i noticed that funny smell i couldn't pin down (not electrical, not exhaust, not gas...) was CV grease on the cat. SOoooo, a new inner boot this weekend, to boot! That was fun! I think I plugged a few leaks in the dyke for now... the poor girl was falling into serious disrepair: - new coil and wires (had arcing between coil wire and both posts) - new PCV hose (was a leaker, too) - new connector hose from EGR to that metal pipe that then leads around driver-side strut - new inner boot. Took a test drive, and all was peachy. Power was back, and she's running tip-top as I go over to wongleflute's for a buger & shake to celebrate. All was well in camelot. But then- the hesitation again. Happens sporadically between 2500-3500 usually, and only when I'm half-gas (primary)- pushing through to secondary clears the throat, so to speak. If I don't push down to secondary to clear it, or change gears to drop the RPM, it will eventually make the car really buck. If I do have chunks in my carb, would it be so sporadic? Letting it warm up properly definitely helps, but even when it's warm, and I restart, it can switch from normal to hesitant. Is there another vac leak I missed? Also, when the silencer blew, I put two loose vac lines together, as the T-connector had melted. Looked like it was a straight connection, and not like I was crossing a circuit, but now I'm wondering if there was something I missed... Any and all help appreciated, -Sam PS- Just remembered I read another quarter-user put his quarters at the bottom of the pipe near the manifold- I put mine up top where they connect to the reed-valve pump bodies. Want to just make sure this doesn't matter: if they're plugged, they're plugged, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Yes - you can drop the quarters in the pipe on either end. The valves will not operate if they are not exposed to the exhaust pulse. Are your reed valves vacuum operated? Some are, and most aren't. Have a look and block the vacuum line to the top of the reed valve if you have one. Did you check out the carb? Look down into the barrels and operate the throttle shafts to make sure they move smoothly. Might still be that dern silincer plastic.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOOBOUTLAW Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 I've had hesitation with my EA71, dismantled the carb and cleaned it out real good, then it ran soooooooooooo sweet and smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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