Sonicfrog Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 This morning I did the classic soapy water test on the air suspention hoses that lead to the front struts. Both bubbled. Hopefully these little leaks are the sole reason why Murphy the $500 87 T-Wag always looks hung over in the morning. Since the drivers side is always deflated, the rear passenger side pivots upward. It looks really funny in our drive way, which is elevated a foot from street level. Our house is at the end of our street, so the strangly crooked car is quite noticeable a block away if you're driving toward our house. #64009 is the Kragen stock number of the little o-rings that fit on the air tubing that connects to the solenoid. The actual size is: Width = 1/16, ID = 1/8, OD = 1/4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 been there done that , i replace mine with manual adjustable struts ,fronts and backs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gl-boost Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 The previous owner took out my air struts to, would have been cool if they still were there and working. I still have half the air suspention stuff thouh in the car, don't know why he wouldnt have removed it. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Well. It's the next morning and, unfortunately, the drivers side bag was again deflated . Oh, well. At least I've fixed the leaks at the front solenoid valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 remove the drivers side wheel and inner plastic liner. you'll see 5 fittings exactly like the solenoid fitting on the compressor assembly. there are obviously 5 of the exact same o-rings here, replace all of those as well. the location of the 4 "outside" fittings/hoses are unimportant, they do not have to be reinstalled in the same positions. all 5 are identical to the ones you just replaced. there are also o-rings where the air-lines screw into the tops of the struts, replace those as well. be careful with the soapy water test on the tops of the struts, there are bearings on the top and they are open. soapy water will toast those bearings. better just to replace them, it's easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 remove the drivers side wheel and inner plastic liner. you'll see 5 fittings exactly like the solenoid fitting on the compressor assembly. there are obviously 5 of the exact same o-rings here, replace all of those as well. the location of the 4 "outside" fittings/hoses are unimportant, they do not have to be reinstalled in the same positions. all 5 are identical to the ones you just replaced. there are also o-rings where the air-lines screw into the tops of the struts, replace those as well. be careful with the soapy water test on the tops of the struts, there are bearings on the top and they are open. soapy water will toast those bearings. better just to replace them, it's easy. Bearing??? What bearings???? Didn't see that on the diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 gary, was it you that had that writeup on cleaning the rust buildup every so often? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 By the way, its hydraulic, not pneumatic. Pneumatic has oil and pumps that move the oil around to create pressure in certain ends of the ram. Hydraulic is kinda the same, only it uses pressurised air to move the rams. But that doesn't matter cos we have all understood you. I have air shockers in the back of my Brat. But they only stay inflated for a couple of hours. Still good for putting half a ton in the back and not rubbing those 27" M/T's though. I'll have to check for leaks on them some time soon... EDIT: by this time your all thinking... huh? your joking right? well, all I can say is, I was tired... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Bearing??? What bearings???? Didn't see that on the diagram. the top of the struts have bearings in them and they are open. you can probably just look down the top of the strut and see them, they are well exposed on the XT6. water poured on top of the strut will get into those bearings. probably why most air suspension set ups have the plastic covers to keep stuff out of those bearings. that's just a guess, either way be cafeful putting water on top of the strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 gary, was it you that had that writeup on cleaning the rust buildup every so often? yes. my retired (rust) daily driver has 220,000 miles on it, still has the same air struts it had when i got it 5 years ago with 100,000 miles. never replaced any air struts and they are in excellent shape still. i can not find that thread, i don't believe it's still here? here's a link to the write-up at http://www.xt6.net: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4173&highlight=air+strut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbh Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 By the way, its hydraulic, not pneumatic. Pneumatic has oil and pumps that move the oil around to create pressure in certain ends of the ram. Hydraulic is kinda the same, only it uses pressurised air to move the rams. I don't mean to be nitpicky or anything, but it's actually just the other way around - hydraulic (from hydro, meaning fluid or water) is oil, while pneumatic (from pneuma, meaning breath or air, hence pneumonia) is pressurised air. Thanks for the good intention though, not trying to knock you or anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 I don't mean to be nitpicky or anything, but it's actually just the other way around - hydraulic (from hydro, meaning fluid or water) is oil, while pneumatic (from pneuma, meaning breath or air, hence pneumonia) is pressurised air. Thanks for the good intention though, not trying to knock you or anything I second this motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 I second this motion. ... and the sticker on the back window does say "Electro-Pneumatic Air Suspension"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 gary, was it you that had that writeup on cleaning the rust buildup every so often? I ran into that post the other day. I love you guys.... in a long-distance platonic sense of coarse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I don't mean to be nitpicky or anything, but it's actually just the other way around - hydraulic (from hydro, meaning fluid or water) is oil, while pneumatic (from pneuma, meaning breath or air, hence pneumonia) is pressurised air. Thanks for the good intention though, not trying to knock you or anything Sorry, late night, I was all mixed up... This happens when your time zone is 14 hours out for where the forum is manly used :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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