Sharp learning curve - FWD transmission

[Viking_Steel]

Hello from Australia. I'm on a very sharp learning curve with Subarus, having just taken on the job of removing the autobox from a '92 Liberty (legacy I think they call them in the rest of the world.

 

A friend of mine was in an accident a few months ago with a '92 Liberty wagon which pushed the front rails out by almost a foot. Short of cutting it forward of the strut towers and welding up the front of a donor car, there wasn't much that could be done for the Scooby Doo, so it's a parts car now. Since I'm the guy with a vanload of tools and enthusiasm for cars in our group, I got the job of stripping it.

 

Now Paul just got himself an even nicer '92 (body and interior look brand new) which goes better than the last one, but we don't know how many miles are on the notoriously unreliable auto box. The parts car had a recently rebuilt box when it was smashed, which obviously is a valuable spare to have if we can get it out.

 

I have very little experience crawling under FWD cars, I'm used to just being able to unbolt the driveshaft (or find the driveshaft) on 30 year old iron. My resto project is a 1977 Volvo 245 panel van, so a very different design philosopy. I'm quite liking taking the Liberty apart though, It seems very well put together, and it's the first time I've found a FWD car I can actually find my way around the engine bay of.

 

Usually on a japanese car there's an inline engine in sideways, and god knows where all the ancilaries are, with the Subaru I had the starter and alternator out more easily than on my old Volvo. The flat 4 is such a neat install, it looks very cool. I'm thinking of buying one when I need a newer car.

 

Does anyone have any advice on removing the transmission from the Liberty? It seems to be an axle, diff and trans all stuck together, and it's all a bit confusing. I'm having trouble locating a service manual for this model, so any instructions are very welcome.

[Legacy777]

To remove the trans, you need need to disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate on the transmission. To do this, you need to access the bolts through the plug hole on the engine bell housing. It can be a pain, but it's not too bad if you take your time.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG

 

here's some more pics

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

 

Other then that, you just remove the upper bolts and lower nuts holding the trans to the engine, and lower the rear transmission crossmember.

 

It can be a real pain to get the trans out, and slide back far enough off the engine studs.

 

Other option you have is to pull the engine & trans out as one unit, which probably is going to be easier.

 

I've got scans from the factory manual on my server. They may not be exactly the same, but should help

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/

[Viking_Steel]

 

It can be a real pain to get the trans out, and slide back far enough off the engine studs.

 

 

Thanks for the downloads. What is exactly is the problem when you slide the trans back off the studs? Where does it catch?

 

The donor car is getting crushed into a cube pretty soon anyway, so I'm perfectly happy to remove or cut anything that's giving trouble. Is it possible to just slide it back a bit then cut through the studs?

[SuBrat84]

Do a search on here about pulling cv joints (half axles) .. A little patience goes a long ways when working on a Subaru. They are really easy once you get to know your way around it.

 

 

Take a look here, maybe this will help?:

http://www.haynes.com.au/category51_1.htm

[Legacy777]

Thanks for the downloads. What is exactly is the problem when you slide the trans back off the studs? Where does it catch?

 

The donor car is getting crushed into a cube pretty soon anyway, so I'm perfectly happy to remove or cut anything that's giving trouble. Is it possible to just slide it back a bit then cut through the studs?

 

I don't know if there was any one thing. When you go to pull things out, you'll get an idea of any obstructions. If the car is getting crushed, getting things out should be easier

[WoodsWagon]

My inclination is always to undo the strut tops and the crossmembers and drop the engine/tranny/ steering and suspension as a unit. drop it out onto some tires, use a backhoe to lift the body off, and ditch the body. Then taking everyting else apart is easy and open.

[Viking_Steel]

91 Loyale, I think we may be on a similar wavelength. I've already removed the punched in radiator support, bumper and spoiler, and I'm about to take out the condenser and radiator so I can pull the heads off the motor.

 

With all that crap out of the way, all I need to do is borrow my housemate's 9" grinder and cut through the front tiebar, and I can take the engine straight out through the front. That's if I can't get an engine hoist for the weekend.

 

Just a thought. I still haven't figured out how you remove the inner CV joint ends, like I said I'm something of a virgin with front wheel drive cars.

[SuBrat84]

You need a punch. 3/8 I think. There is a pin holding the half axle onto the transmission. then it just slides off (pending being disconnected from the rotor/steering knuckle stuff)

[Viking_Steel]

Can I still put the car back on it's wheels once the half axle's removed? I'm kind of picturing the wheels being bolted to the ends of the axle.

 

Sorry, I must sound like a complete moron here but like I said I'm learning very fast about FWD cars.

 

Of course the quickest way to learn something is to take it apart and see how it works. I've really enjoyed gutting the Liberty so far, seeing the differences between 90's Jap engineering, and something designed in Sweden in the early 70's.

 

The subaru seems to have been designed by an electrical engineer. Every problem has been solved with a nice electrical solution. I was pleased to see that all the wiring was still accessable, albeit very complicated. I can trace the wiring back and still figure out what most things do. I even found a mechanical speedo cable on the back of the cluster, which surprised me.

 

The Volvo on the other hand was clearly designed by some guys whose day job was building bridges. They didn't half overspecify the structural intergirty of the beast. Little things like mudflaps are held in place by bolts which look brand new after 30 years under the car. I use 1/2" drive sockets for every bolt on the car, I wonder if you can even say 6mm head in Swedish.

 

Wow, that was a digression and a half. Yes, I was supposed to be asking about half axles. Can you take those CVs out and still re-attach the wheels? Remember I'm used to the idea that the hub is the end of the axleshaft.

[Legacy777]

The axles support the bearing, so once they are removed, the car really won't support itself on the wheels through just the bearing. The axle stub portion at least needs to be in there.

[bepa]

The axles support the bearing, so once they are removed, the car really won't support itself on the wheels through just the bearing. The axle stub portion at least needs to be in there.

the hub holds the bearing. the hub also holds the studs that the lug nuts go on. with the axle taken out you still have the studs to put the nuts on, the struts are still there to hold up the hub with wheel attached and the streering hardware is still all there. let's think about this for a moment. the struts, hub and bearing are all still there. yes the wheel with attach and turn without the axle in the car. no you could not drive it but you can put it on it's wheeels and pass it around. just not with the motor moving the car.

 

be well, Daniel. daniel.barry@med.va.gov

[Legacy777]

the hub holds the bearing. the hub also holds the studs that the lug nuts go on. with the axle taken out you still have the studs to put the nuts on, the struts are still there to hold up the hub with wheel attached and the streering hardware is still all there. let's think about this for a moment. the struts, hub and bearing are all still there. yes the wheel with attach and turn without the axle in the car. no you could not drive it but you can put it on it's wheeels and pass it around. just not with the motor moving the car.

 

be well, Daniel. daniel.barry@med.va.gov

 

What's holding the inner and outer bearings together? The force provided by the axle being there, and clamped in place by the axle nut. Sure you could do what you say, but you will destroy the bearing, and possibly have the inner and outer bearings separate, and have your wheel along with the hub fall off and chunk up into your fender.

 

Do what you want, but I as well as all the manuals I've read say do not put weight on the bearing unless the axle and axle nut is in place.

 

Josh

[johnceggleston]

i was asking about pulling a trans from a donor car a few weeks ago, and someone replied that if you are pulling both engine and trasmission, pull them together from the top. much less work. they come out as a unit.

 

Can I still put the car back on it's wheels once the half axle's removed? I'm kind of picturing the wheels being bolted to the ends of the axle.

 

Sorry, I must sound like a complete moron here but like I said I'm learning very fast about FWD cars.

 

Of course the quickest way to learn something is to take it apart and see how it works. I've really enjoyed gutting the Liberty so far, seeing the differences between 90's Jap engineering, and something designed in Sweden in the early 70's.

 

The subaru seems to have been designed by an electrical engineer. Every problem has been solved with a nice electrical solution. I was pleased to see that all the wiring was still accessable, albeit very complicated. I can trace the wiring back and still figure out what most things do. I even found a mechanical speedo cable on the back of the cluster, which surprised me.

 

The Volvo on the other hand was clearly designed by some guys whose day job was building bridges. They didn't half overspecify the structural intergirty of the beast. Little things like mudflaps are held in place by bolts which look brand new after 30 years under the car. I use 1/2" drive sockets for every bolt on the car, I wonder if you can even say 6mm head in Swedish.

 

Wow, that was a digression and a half. Yes, I was supposed to be asking about half axles. Can you take those CVs out and still re-attach the wheels? Remember I'm used to the idea that the hub is the end of the axleshaft.