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TOD thread #245234521355


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Ok lemme start from the beginning, Its a bit long, so bare with me.

 

About a year ago my parents bought a 93 Loyale 5Spd. S/W everything was fine.....It was low on oil, so my dad procrastinated and FINALLY added a few quarts, my mom (thought he didnt add it) so she thought she would add some also...then the car started the classic TOD symptoms/noise.

 

I bought the car off them (before I had my license) and started working on it one of the first things I did was a oil/filter change. THE TICKING STOPPED!!!! I got my license 3 weeks ago and added seafoam to the oil(thought it would help clean everything up so that it wouldn't tick again) so about 1 1/2 weeks later it started ticking again(i thought it would do this because it would make the oil dirty again) So I change the oil/filter let it idle for about 3 min. and the ticking STOPS. Great, so I drove around all week with NO ticking. Today I take my first drive on the Interstate, and while Im getting up to speed (70 mph) it starts ticking again.

 

currently the car is ticking pretty loudly and I just don't know what to do. I know it can be a lot of things but where do I start? I need to fix it fast( my friends don't think to highly of the car how it is, lol)

 

Thanks, alot

 

Tyler

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Yeah, either replace or reseal the oil pump. When you take it out...look at it for scarring on the pieces...if it looks good, a reseal would suffice, you can get a kit at Napa. While your in there you can repack the Tensioners as GD recommended and replace the timing belts, or buy this

 

Good Luck.

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Don't quote me on this, but I have heard, from numerous sources, numberous times. that sea foam, despite saying that you can add it to your oil, is not good for extended use in the oil. it's chemicals eat away the seals some. it's a little late now, but for future reference....

 

I've had VERY good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil. Big red bottle at any auto parts store. add a few cups of that to your oil (don't overfill....), and let it run for awhile.

 

how's your oil pressure?

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how's your oil pressure?

 

Yes! That´s It... Check your Oil Pressure...

 

Let me tell ya Somethin´: The Oil Pump on the Subaru´s EA82 is moved by one of the Timin´ Belts, instead of the main axle of the engine, as used in almost all other engine designs, so it make an oil pump to rev. at double speed than the pistons (Valves Speed) so it only last about 100,000 Miles (About 10 Years of Use).

 

So in mine, I just changed the Core of the Oil Pump (Oil pump Kit, that Reseals it) and the noise did go. That´s All.

 

But in the other hand, I did help a friend with a Hatchback EA82 that was too noisy, and the previous owner did drive it like that for two or three years! ... :eek:

So in that case, Along with the Oil pump change, we cleaned the Hydraulic Lifters, and that got fixed any Engine Noise.

 

But, due to the serious wear on it´s lifters, my friend´s subie always is a li´l bit noisy when it is first started first time on the day. Or when it´s cold. then in few minutes, noise is gone.

Maybe this can Help you...

 

 

Good Luck! :)

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First time - set aside 6 to 8 hours for the whole job. Leave the belt covers in the trash can too.

 

GD

 

I second and third the motion - leave the belt covers off. Makes future repairs much, much quicker and easier. Plus, it just looks cool. I wouldn't throw them away though, just in case you decide later you're more comfortable with them on.

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The Oil Pump on the Subaru´s EA82 is moved by one of the Timin´ Belts, instead of the main axle of the engine, as used in almost all other engine designs, so it make an oil pump to rev. at double speed than the pistons (Valves Speed)

 

Uh doesnt the camshaft spin at half the speed of the crank? Not important but i've got to contribute something. :grin:

 

KELTIK

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Can't help but tear through that patch of gravel on the side of the road, those front tires spray stuff into the engine bay...but I've been lucky.

 

Personally I won't run an EA82 off-road - more because of the whole complexity of the timing system, and the bearings being exposed to water and silt. But there's been plenty of people on here that claim to have run them through mud and water without covers. You have to grasp just how fast they are spinning - 350 RPM even at idle. Much to fast for anything to "stick". The belt material itself is pretty tough - being nylon impregnated rubber. Try to tear one in half by hand sometime to see what I mean. Pound on one with a hammer if you like - no, I think rocks are not going to snap one.

 

GD

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Uh doesnt the camshaft spin at half the speed of the crank? Not important but i've got to contribute something. :grin:

 

KELTIK

 

The oil pump drive sprocket is the same size as the crank sprocket, so it does turn at full engine speed, not half speed as the EA81 pump does. It's interesting to note that the EA81 pump does not last any longer because of this (both engines need new pumps about every 100k). The wear on the pump components has more correlation to the quality of the oil and hours of operation than it does to number of rotations or mileage. The engine heat bakes the o-rings, and the oil particulates eat the pump surfaces.

 

GD

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I took my timing belt covers off, and have never looked back! and I've had my motor running underwater, a number of times. It may take a little life off them and the tensioners/idlers, but it makes the replacement process a 20 minute job, instead of an hour. I've done a couple sets on the side of the road, and it's hardly even an incedent, if I had to fight with the covers, I would've called someone, canceled whatever I was going to, gotten a tow (hopefully I'm close to home so a tow rope could be used), and set some serious time aside for the repair.

 

just make sure you've got the knowhow, tools, and parts to do it if it does break, and you'll be set.

 

 

and it's actually the other way around, the cams spin at half the speed of the crank. and the oil pump (as already said) spins at the same speed as the crank. I resealed an oil pump with 230k miles on it (probably origional seals too), and it worked as good as new. the seals were less than $10 too, even from a dealer.

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