Mr. Wob Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 Hey guys, I have been searching around the site and got some answers, but I figured I would introduce a new Loyale to the forum and ask a few questions. I just purchased a 1993 Loyale Wagon 4WD - Red, gray interior -not in perfect shape, but for $400 dollars it sure is Anyway, here in NYC you have 10 days to get the car inspected and I am a bit scared if it will pass. The lower ball joints dont display any play, but the boots are split. Looks like the easiest ball joints to do ever though. The car idles rough, not horrible, but definately rough. Obviously, plugs, wires, air/fuel filter and maybe a little injector cleaner in the tank would help, but is there any other rough idle solutions associated with the Loyale? I have a bit of a grinding noise coming from the front passenger side. Sounds a bit like a wheel bearing, but service records show it is less then 2 years old. Its the same noise whatever angle the steering wheel is at. Its not too loud, but with the radio off you can hear it, almost like pads running very low except there is plenty left on them. 4WD doesnt engage either, no light on the dash or anything - I read about the vaccuum lines and the fuses etc to check though - really its not a huge concern for me right now though. I have a Check Engine Light too. I read how to diagnose, but just to clarify since there a few different versions - plug the two white plugs under the hood near the master cylinder together, key on, check code? Hopefully, the ball joints and slight grinding noise gets by inspection until I can fix them though. Any help would be appriciated, thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 You did very good for 400 bucks That car would be 5 times that just a few states away.... You won't regret your soob keeping up on stuff. The codes are correct to check the way you mentioned. There is a way to check the codes via a manual downloadable from here someplace, just request it. CEL light on is very common, The egr purging valve and solenoid switch is very common trigger and not a serious problem. A rough idle is most often vacuum leak, but in my case of my latest loyale, it was bizarre problem below the SPFI unit among other unusuals due to an overheat. The grinding noise is something to be inspecting right away. If it is wheal bearings, regreasing is too late, must get new ones. You may get lucky and find something stuck in the brake pads or elsewhere. If you dont mind modding stuff, I am keeping track of my 93 loyale here, you may get some info wanted http://93loyale.50megs.com The 4wd not engaging may be the solenoid that does so. An expert here would no doubt be helpful.Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syonyk Posted May 16, 2006 Share Posted May 16, 2006 Congrats! I just picked up a clean 92 Loyale for... 5 times that. Good deal! And thanks for that Loyale link - *reads* -=Russ=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Wob Posted May 16, 2006 Author Share Posted May 16, 2006 great info so far, thanks. Seems like there is a lot of maintenence with these cars, but great fun to own. The parts seem cheap and holy christ does it look easy to work on. I was checking out a rattling heat shield with no jack yesterday My biggest concern is getting to pass inspection so far, then I will likely do a tuneup, the wheel bearing, figure out the 4WD, etc - hopefully I just dont have to do that now - its not easy repairing cars on the streets of Manhattan. I will run the CEL codes maybe tmrw or thursday and let you guys know what I come with. I will try to tighten the axle nut too soon - hopefully its just that and not the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 The grinding noise may just be a loose/undertightened axle nut. Some manuals misstate the torque value as around 100ft-lbs, and IIRC it should be 145ft-lbs. (Check around the site for the proper number... or wait for someone to respond that hasn't been up and working for 21 hours... :-\ ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 You are correct, 145 ft lbs on the axle nut. Check to see if the backing plate for the brakes isn't bent. Check to see if the wheel rim isn't rubbing on the brake caliper. This will happen if someone put the wrong rim on. The EA-81 rim will bolt onto an EA-82, but it won't really clear the caliper, causing noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Wob Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 i didnt see any noticeable rub marks when I had it off - one of the brake pad shims was a bit out of place, but this is definately a grinding with or without brakes - it seems to get a bit louder if I turn to the left (noise is on the pass side) This should be a fun inspection I pulled the CEL code and its a 34 - so I am searching around the forums now for the possible EGR causes/fixes. My biggest concerns are the grinding, the EGR code and the ball joints have split grease boots. I have my PA inspection license and in PA that fails, but there is no physical play in them, so I dont know how NY will be. I guess we will find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellets Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Ahha the good old 34 code. All my d/l wagons have this code showing. One cause seems to be the vacuum switch that feeds the egr solnoid. There is a cleaning procedure for the solnoid. Most repair places just ignore it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Wob Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 Well I have to have the car inspected by the 25th, any suggestions? I have limited tools at my apt, but I am not paying a mechanic do anything I am perfectly capable of doing myself. If it just needs a cleaning thats cool, if someone has an EGR solenoid for sale I would very happy to purchase it - If the EGR valve is stuck I will most likely fail emissions since NYS is so psycho Any suggestions for this? I think I am just going to take it to get inspected and see what they say the car needs - if it fails NOx, then I will fix the solenoid - like I said - it may need ball joints and a wheel bearing or more - yikes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogiesdad Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 You did pretty good for $400.00--just about free in NYC prices, lol. About the axle nut, pull the hub and make sure the teeth inside aren't chewed up before you tighten up the nut--I had an '84 that was loose and making noise when I bought it, I tightened everything up and it was fine for a couple months, but eventually it stripped out and I had to change it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 somes states have wavers or extensions you can apply for. tell them your situation and they may give you another month or 3..... if you don't know already, call and find out if this is an option in your state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 The code 34 if often caused by the EGR solenoid. You can easily check the solenoid by unplugging it and sticking an 68 ohm resistor in the socket. Clear the codes if necessary, and if the CEL goes out, you need a solenoid. They go out frequently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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