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EA 81 rebuild guidance


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It's basically the same principle as any other engine. You just don't bore or hone the EA81's - at least not without a bore plate. Usually you can still see the factory cross-hatching so there is no real point anyhow. Go to the library and get some books on engine rebuilding - you'll want a micrometer and telescoping guage set - and some plasti-guage for bearing fitment and such. Assembly lube for start-up lubrication. And you'll need to buy or make a tool to remove the piston wrist pins in order to split the block. Also need a 12mm? hex socket for the wrist pin access holes in the block.

 

Really it's just a lot of measureing, labeling of parts, torque settings, and taking stuff to have it milled and waiting for the machine shop to finish... You'll want to mill the heads, have a valve job done including replacing the stem seals, and lapping the seats (at least - a grind you be best). Probably best to have the crank turned and get oversized bearings for it and the rods. New rings - I got the chrome rings from Fed-Mog - still looking into wether I should hone the cylinders a bit or not with the chrome jobbies. Tough call since you want to break them in, but you don't want to wear all the chrome off doing it and the subaru bores already have the factory cross-hatching, so it may serve to break them in by itself. If I do it will be a very light hone with like a 500 grit bottle brush.

 

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There's a PDF of the factory service manual floating around somewhere, search for that. Also the how to keep your subaru alive PDF.

Good luck with the rebuild, cleanliness and order are of paramount importance. It only takes one bit of machining swarf to get into the oil flow and then into one of your main bearings to ruin your whole rebuild.

A mate of mine had just reinstalled and engine in his escort when he (fortunately) noticed one of the oil channel plugs on his workshop floor. Luckily he saw this before he cranked it, but still had to pull and partially disassemble the engine.

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