bgd73 Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 If a single long cammed v8 can on bending pushrods and valve spring pressure less than an ea82... I am willing to bet it can, no float, no nothin...no sweat:burnout: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobscript Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 I know this is not the place for naysaying, but why? You had a good thing going with your turbo setup(s). Do you want to run with the setup, or just blow it up repeatedly to scientifically find weak points? You could take some of your proven mods, and half of the stuff you are talking about here to make something faster for cheaper. (blah... ej.) Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see it done, and will help in any tiny way possible, but... forged balanced crank, forged rods, forged everything, piston skirt oil spayers, lightweight balanced custom pulleys, balanced everything, full-custom fuel, water + meth injection, full e.m. / ms'n's, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Do It Sidewayz Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 i think the main hold up in this plan will be the heads. those things don't flow well at all. they are bareable with a turbo set-up as the turbo just crams air in there anwyays. you will need to look into springs. I've had these things floating at 7 K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Just get the heads and intake manifold extrude honed. That will help the breathing a lot, turbo or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 i think the main hold up in this plan will be the heads. those things don't flow well at all. they are bareable with a turbo set-up as the turbo just crams air in there anwyays. you will need to look into springs. I've had these things floating at 7 K. I bet it was timing not a valve float.If I'm not mistaken there is 135lbs on valve springs on a short tough cam and lash adjustered all very close for tight function. The weakest link is two timing belts two lengths, on two tensions, drivers side especially having a harder turn. Keep the top end cool for the bad flowing heads-- it just takes a few milliseconds longer to achieve the same flow than larger heads. I have gone to 7000 and knew I could keep going until it flew apart internally (not even the heads). Of course the weight of 4wd is also another killer no matter what is done. I have done this on a 2wd. Surprised the hell out of me when I put into reality that it could be done smoothly.Torque demand in other words would be the other big factor. I am confident due to an old worn v8 I had that hit 8000 in a 3000 lb car on 115 lb springs and a fat cam just "thrown" in to see what would happen. The oil pump will fail due to heat, not rpm first. Keeping the top end very cool seems to fix that too for quite a high rpm range.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.