Timing Belt Change - Special Tools?

[Phillip]

I'm planning to replace the timing belt on my 1999 Outback 2.5 engine this weekend and have a few questions about special tools I hope someone can help me with. (1) AllData shows a special cranksahft holding tool used when removing and reinstalling the crank pulley. Can I hold the flywheel through the ignition timing view port at the rear of the engine, or is the holding tool required? (2) I also plan to replace the water pump - AllData says to remove both camshaft pulleys for access; after looking at a photograph of the engine, I question if that is necessary. If required, how do I hold the cam from turning when removing the bolt? (3) I understand the tensioner must be compressed in an upright position with a hydraulic press using not more than 66 psi. Could I use a large 'C' clamp to slowly compress the piston? Thanks in advance for any advice!

[Subaru_for_LIfe]

I'm planning to replace the timing belt on my 1999 Outback 2.5 engine this weekend and have a few questions about special tools I hope someone can help me with. (1) AllData shows a special cranksahft holding tool used when removing and reinstalling the crank pulley. Can I hold the flywheel through the ignition timing view port at the rear of the engine, or is the holding tool required? (2) I also plan to replace the water pump - AllData says to remove both camshaft pulleys for access; after looking at a photograph of the engine, I question if that is necessary. If required, how do I hold the cam from turning when removing the bolt? (3) I understand the tensioner must be compressed in an upright position with a hydraulic press using not more than 66 psi. Could I use a large 'C' clamp to slowly compress the piston? Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Howdy Phillip,

 

All those special tools are definitely nice to have but not required. You could get by with most common garage tools and some improvisations. If you do a search, you'd find various methods used by other members including but not limited to breaker bars while cranking the motor to novel factory special tools.

 

You need to stay away from AllData and hang around here more often. I have never taken off cam pulleys for T belt and water pump job.

 

And yes I've always used the 'C' clamp to compress the actuator, just do it slowly like you've said. Find a small pin to fit inside that little locking hole on your tensioner in advance.

 

Why didn't you get a Haynes manual?

[lmdew]

Cam & Crank seals and replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal the pump. Make sure you tighten the oil pump back cover screws.

 

The new tensioners are not as good as the old. You can switch if you get the mounting bracket and associated parts off an 95 or older 2.2. IMHO

[Phillip]

Why AllData? I manage a large commercial fleet vehicle & equipment repair facility and we subscribe to AllData. For a commercial shop, it is an essential tool! We don't do any import work, so when I work on my wife's Outback, I use it and this board as a reference. Thanks for the response regarding the water pump - from the photo I looked at, the pump seemed clear of the pulleys.

 

Howdy Phillip,

 

All those special tools are definitely nice to have but not required. You could get by with most common garage tools and some improvisations. If you do a search, you'd find various methods used by other members including but not limited to breaker bars while cranking the motor to novel factory special tools.

 

You need to stay away from AllData and hang around here more often. I have never taken off cam pulleys for T belt and water pump job.

 

And yes I've always used the 'C' clamp to compress the actuator, just do it slowly like you've said. Find a small pin to fit inside that little locking hole on your tensioner in advance.

 

Why didn't you get a Haynes manual?

[Phillip]

The short block was replaced and the valves resurfaced about 25k ago, so all should be okay. Unfortunately, I didn't have a new belt the weekend I assembled it and now get to spend a weekend doing it! Thaks for the tip about re-torquing the oil pump.

 

Phillip

 

Cam & Crank seals and replace the oil pump o-ring and reseal the pump. Make sure you tighten the oil pump back cover screws.

 

The new tensioners are not as good as the old. You can switch if you get the mounting bracket and associated parts off an 95 or older 2.2. IMHO

[pinnhedd]

I'm also doing my t belt and water pump. i'm going to put it in at work though so hopefully it will work out good.

[DerFahrer]

You definitely don't need to remove the cam sprockets to remove the water pump.

 

Haynes manuals only go up to 98. The procedure for your SOHC 99 is virtually the same as a SOHC 2.2, except the tensioner's different.

 

You can compress the tensioner in a C-clamp or (preferably) a vise. BUT... you must do it SLOWLY! Take at least 2 minutes from the time you stop until the time you stick the Allen wrench (or whatever) through the tensioner. Do it too fast and you'll screw up the hydraulics in it.

 

Your oil pump backing plate screws are likely just fine. I removed my oil pump at 149k and the screws were so tight I couldn't get them out.

[Dickensheets]

I just did all this 6 months ago. I didn't use special tools. I have a few recommendations though:

 

1) loosen crank bolt and cam bolts with the old belt in place and a small pry bar in the bell housing viewing port.

 

2) For retorquing same, I used a pair of 16" slip joint pliers to hold the cam pulleys stationary (2 man job for me). They have small angular surfaces upon which to grab without damaging the teeth.

 

3) Take 5 min and remove the radiator - you'll be glad for the extra elbow room.

 

4) I too used a large clamp to squish the tensioner - slowly!

 

5) Buy a subaru belt - it has timing marks on it, makes life a little easier.

[Dr. RX]

The one special tool that I use, that is never mentioned in any repair manual for a Subaru that I have ever seen, is a large spring clip (the kind that you use to hold papers together, like these http://www08.quillcorp.com/Catalog/Browse/Sku.asp?PageType=1&sku=008267&EFFORT_CODE=901&FIND_NUMBER=721000 ). I clip the belt to the pulley over the mark so that the belt will not slip off whiles I'm doing something else. It also assures that the belt doesn't skip a timing mark when the tensioner is released.

 

For commercial vehicles, AllData may be the best, but I have found them lacking when it come to personal vehicles.

[Phillip]

Great suggestion about the spring paper clips! I think you're right about AllData, I've heard the do-it-yourself version is pretty lacking - the professional version is top notch. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

 

 

The one special tool that I use, that is never mentioned in any repair manual for a Subaru that I have ever seen, is a large spring clip (the kind that you use to hold papers together, like these http://www08.quillcorp.com/Catalog/Browse/Sku.asp?PageType=1&sku=008267&EFFORT_CODE=901&FIND_NUMBER=721000 ). I clip the belt to the pulley over the mark so that the belt will not slip off whiles I'm doing something else. It also assures that the belt doesn't skip a timing mark when the tensioner is released.

 

For commercial vehicles, AllData may be the best, but I have found them lacking when it come to personal vehicles.