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ECU Fuse?


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fusible links are next to the battery under a black cover. check those. remove and reinstall, making sure they have good contact.

 

do you have any power at all?

are the battery and connections good, tight and clean?

have you done anything to this car recently? or it's been a daily driver for a year straight and then the next day it does this?

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Have power turns over, noticed the CEL light no go and no start. Checked ecu light, nada. I was messing with wires near MAF, and heard something click on SPFI unit. I went to start car and no go, just turns over, all fuses good and fusible links. Somethin is stinkin from ECU. I think I killed it.:banghead:

Anyone have one? This is what mine has for numbers (2wd 5spd, spfi):

ecunumbers0lq.jpg

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ECU really stinks. I Left it outside. Having built my personal computers and killed them for years now, I would think a dead board would smell familiar. This one has an odor all its own . I didn't hurt the wires, it was my simple mistake.I took cover off, power on, no heat on regulators/resistors nothing.Gotta remember this sensitive subject next time. found replacement at salvage cheap, same number (396).Thanks for help.

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I am certain it was problem, I am currently no ride.. it has been awhile since that has happened.Only event number 2 since 1997 (with just 2 old subes) that has left me stranded, and this second time is my stupid fault...:mad:

Loyale 2.7 turbo, i used your weber pics on my site, thanks!

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Yep. There is also an odor coming off the heatsinkers

(heatstinkers :lol: ) .I'll just get a new board. 13 years and a precise clock ought to be a freaky nuclear byproduct by now running that long..:eek: . Cant just dip that in the degreaser and call it good.

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Ok, going for a longshot. Any ECU guru's here? How about a Zalman fan resistor swap (increase resistance) over the old one.I am completely stuck until Tuesday! Anyone have an ECU apart with the numbers on the burnt resistor in photo (R1)

zalmanswap8wp.jpg

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From the numbers I can see on the resistor it looks like the resistor value may be 6.5 ohms. You could try to replace it but the problem is what caused the resistor to be burned in the first place. Excessive current caused the damage and the circuit that the resistor provides power to needs to be checked out. It may provide power to the fuel pump, injectors, or.... something else. If you put in another ECU and the problem is still there then the new ECU will be damaged also. Try to see what the resistor ties to and if it goes to an external pin on the ECU to help find the area to check.

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The problem was all me, simple mistake, quick zap. It is fixed now. I do not have 6.5 ohms on R1, it is now 56 ohm monster. I have been driving for 40 miles or so local today, runs great.When cold the resistor is an obvious millisecond(s) delay, but no problems.Thanks for reply. I will pickup another OEM ecu in few days.

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