I need some quick help if I can change my own axel boot?

[Buick350X]

I need some quick help if I can change my own axel boot?

 

I am the repairman for my Moms 01 Subaru Forest, last of the tall models.

 

N E ways her right axel boot is split wide open and tossing trans fluid all over the cat and stinkin bad.

 

Should I got buy a $30 repair book and change it myself or is this beyond normal garage tools. I know I could do it but being such a nice car I don't just wanna ripe into stuff. I am capable and if it was mine I would just do it but......... There is a learning curve the first time ya do anything. Never work on a Subaru before.

 

 

Also dip stick days dextron II ATF, and its clear.

Most bottles at the store say dextron II/III and is red.

Does the clear and red mix?

 

Funny this happens now.

I have been gathering up parts to do a full service on the drive train n tune up. Not excited about changing them plugs for the first time.

[ShawnW]

Theres an article in the USRM about axles. Its very doable at home. You will want a rebuilt axle, the torn boot is likely to have allowed grit&dirt or water into the bearings and its done for.

 

The ATF is the red stuff, and its not clear it just looks that way.

 

Spark plugs on a 2001 will be very easy. You are going to like working on this vehicle.

[Buick350X]

Maybe I am saying it wrong but its the boot near the engine, not the tire. So CV should be fine right? Isn't there two? inner n outer, don't know subaru much.

 

N what ever is in the trans, its clear. I know red ATF n this ain't it. Worked in a TQ shop and have bathed in it.[ran the lathe cutting them open for rebuild.]

[Buick350X]

Also any tips on the price this stuff will cost? AZ website doesn't list anything.

[subie94]

Maybe I am saying it wrong but its the boot near the engine, not the tire.

 

if it's the one near the engine/trans then it's the inner CV joint..

 

now this is me talking,but i'd just replace the axle with a rebuilt one.

 

it'll last longer then one of those replacement boots..specially if it's a split replacement one(bought one along time ago and decided to not use it.)

[Buick350X]

What about the ATF stuff?? Cause the stuff in it is clear, clear, clear, almost looks brand new its so clean. I don't wanna dump red dex 3 ATF in there without knowing for sure its gonna be ok with the dex 2.

 

renote, dip stick says use Dex II on it.

[fastwgn286]

you own a whole forest? how many acres? can we use it for offroading?

 

ok, moronic statements aside: here's an idea. change the tranny fluid. it'll make your mom happy, your moms forester very happy, and your brain happy (because it won't worry about the mixing issue). don't need to flush it because the little bit in there wont make much of an impact (wont make any if it mixes happily, but let's assume that doesn't happen. change fluid would be a good thing)

 

dunno about the boot question. pondering that one myself (outside cv boot split open, needs fixing so i can take it into the woods.....)

[Buick350X]

Well upon closer look it is just grease in there. Trans fluid is full but yea it is,

is line for changing. got the special $16 filter not long ago. Still need to find out how much it holds before I change it. Hate to come up short and need a 2nd store run.

 

any clue on that?

 

Plan to do the Diffs too but I know that's 4-5 qurts each, or so AZ web site says.

 

Isn't there a transfer case somewhere too on the AWDs?

Probably 80-90 like the diffs, is that hard to change?

 

Got over 90,000 n I do wanna change it all.

 

 

So N E Ways once I stripped most of the stuff from the side of the engine I could get at the boot easy from the top. [rained all day, no garage]. Cleaned it well and used half a tube of clear silicone to blob over the crack. [i felt around inside and there is plenty of grease.] I dId it so the crack was on top, so the silicone will only need to sqish on the rotate. Which should keep it from comin lose till boot gets here Tue. Ordered the quick boot and will put it on with the split on the other side of siliconed split. N silicone the sucker on. Then will make sure and get it in the shop before winter to have it fixed right. If Im gonna change the axle, Ill let the CV wear some more first. Not bad yet. And with CVs its always yet.

 

Changing the plugs n wires wasn't to awful. Plugs needed it bad. Almost look original they were so worn down but funny how it still ran fine. N older car would of died from plugs bieng so worn.

 

I put in bosche platinums, is that ok?

I hear they aren't good for turbo cars but..... Its not a turbo.

 

 

Though I did pounder getting some rubber/plastic spray to put on the other CV to keep it from going. Spray a bunch of black magic on it.

[avk]

The inner boot can be replaced w/o removing the axle's outer end from the hub.

The extra tools need tor replacinng the boot are snap-ring pliers and the band tightening tool. The boot above the converter seems to be suffering from heat. Had to replace that one, the rest are original.

[Andyjo]

1) Usually people go w/ OEM subaru plugs... sometimes aftermarket stuff make make your life hell.

 

2) You mom's forester doesn't have a Transfer case

 

3) Your rear diff will take about .8 Quarts of 80w-90, the front is about 1.5 quarts i believe... i got 3 bottles of the stuff, and it was plenty. WHen doing up the rear diff, measure the level w/ your finger... so pretty much keep pumping in oil until it comes out the top hole.. let it drain (become level w/ the top hole) and then plug her up.

 

4) What kind of filter? Tranny filter? you wont' lose that much fluid if you change it, When you do change the tranny fluid, it won't be empty, it will stop draining, but there will still be about 30% of the original fluid left in there, i think 2 of the big jugs of ATF is plenty to do a fluid change (if i remember correctly... since i did it like 6 times at school )

 

5) Go to your local auto store, pick up yourself a half shaft (axle) (~$60) this will come with the boots all sealed & clean. You may want to get yourself a punch for the DOJ pin, and a 32mm socket. On your way back from the store, stop by a shop that has a LARGE impact gun (~800 ftlbs) just let them know that you're going to be changing an axle, and you can't get the nut off (remove the center cap before going... making things quick.) If you're lucky they'll tell you to pull up to the shop door, they'll come out w/ the gun, and break the nut loose for you, then put it back on... but not to the rediculous amount as before. When you're changing the axle, loosen up the top 3 strut mount bolts, and remove the ball-joint nut that connects the hub to the controling arm. Once you rip off the DOJ pin, and the axle nut you should be able to pull the hub & strut back, and remove the axle... i'm sure you can figure out how to put it back together... i found it was easier to get the tranny end in first (make sure you line up those pin holes!) and then put in the hub side.

 

6) When you're all done with that, you can clean the grease off the cat with a pressure washer

 

I'm sure other people will chime in w/ other useful info! Good luck!

[Buick350X]

Ok Im really dumb, I know some bikes n cars but whats a DOJ

 

I should know. Its probably starin me in the face making me look really dumb..........

 

And thanks for all the help so far. I must applaude ya guys cause I first found that other subaru forum and have gone there several times with problems over the past year and was just snubbed. Like 900 people online n no help. I got fed up and it took some diggin to find this site. I had a brain fart n search for message board, if ya just search Sub forum, ya only find one place and they suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.

Told em so too:) Posted a link to here. Probably banned.

 

There's a forum for everything I own or work on with good helpful folks

 

ViragoTech.com

BuickThunder.com

ThirdGenChat.org

 

n now

ultimatesubaru.org

 

Cause Im not visitng that other Sub forum n e more.

And I hope to own this 01 Forest one day and stick a turbo on it.

[Buick350X]

Plugs I pulled out were Champion RCIOYC4 ????

[Andyjo]

Plugs I pulled out were Champion RCIOYC4 ????

No clue....

DOJ is the cylinder looking thing coming out of the transmission... there's a pin that goes through all of that good stuff to ensure that stuff doesn't move around too much, you've got to knock that out.

[fastwgn286]

do a search of tranny fluid on here before buying any. there have been a few discussions on which to get, blending, etc.

 

also a thread on spark plugs.

 

we sure do cover a lot of topics here.....

[Buick350X]

do a search of tranny fluid on here before buying any. there have been a few discussions on which to get, blending, etc.

 

also a thread on spark plugs.

 

we sure do cover a lot of topics here.....

 

 

Any tips on what section? Just searching for spark plugs comes up with 1000+ post.

[a97obw]

The extra tools need tor replacinng the boot are snap-ring pliers and the band tightening tool.

 

One of my other cars is a 69 Porsche 912, and from visiting the 912 Registry forums I've learned that those guys are no longer using the "banding tool" with the metal bands to secure the boots at the CV joint....apparently the "racers trick" is to use the heavy duty plastic "wire tie" fasteners like the cops use in lieu of hand cuffs. I tried them on my 912 recently after cleaning and re-greasing the joints, and they do work well. Just snip off the excess part that you pull through the connector and you are good to go.

 

As for using one of those "split boot" types of CV joint boot, I don't know how that is going to hold up since it will be spinning with the axle. Remember, that "technology" was the brain child of VW on the old swing axle beetles, vans etc. that merely provided a dust boot from the transmission to the axle tube....i.e. the actual axle was spinning inside the axle tube. So that type of "split boot" does not rotate.

[Buick350X]

good tip, id probably would of just some some big hose clamps. Plastic ties can hold just as well and not risk cutting them.

[avk]

Stainless bands work well too. The tool costs $10.

[fastwgn286]

cable ties are quite cheap (5 bucks for a hundred or something, found at hardware store)

 

you'l have to ask someone with the same engine as yours which plugs to get. i know that subaru used ngk plugs for a while. you can go to a dealer (or just email one) and ask for the oem part number, and search for what the actual plug number is (don't buy the plugs from the dealer, they charge 25 bucks a pop!)

[avk]

Using cable ties is fast, cheap, and good.

[Buick350X]

Well I ended up doing a quick fix until the axel needs changed. I know once torn they say just chang em but, its work fine still. Ill wait.

 

But got a tip fro ma guy who done similar. he said don't buy the quick boot. Buy a reg boot and split it yourself. Then super glue it back together. [Which is a stong weld.] Then use some special black rubber cement over that.

 

Well I did all that plus I used lots n lots of zip ties. Two on each end and one in each valley to make sure it holds it form. Not tight though, just making it hold shape. Tis working great.

 

Gonna soak the others down ever so often with black magic tire wet, Its silicone based and will keep them plyable.

[kudd]

I'm sure everybody knows this.... except whoever changed one before I owned it, so I'll add it anyhow. When ya do get a new axel and pop that pin out that holds the axel to the tranny ( the DOJ?) it is a one way fit. There is a little recess on the side it is supposed to go into and come back out of. So be sure ya drive it out and re-install it the right way, or you'll end up under there with a friggin' drill inventing new curses the next time.

 

On my gen1 legacy's I drive 'em out from above, put the axel on, rotate 180 degrees and drive back in from above... on the passenger side. Drivers side ya gotta do from below. Your Forester, and your mileage may vary. cheers!

[avk]

The pin bore is offset from the center, probably to reduce the shear load. So the chamfered ends should coincide lest crookedness ensues.