4x4_Welder Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 I have a d/r 5speed from an 86 EA82, what exactly will I have to modify or replace to throw that under an EA81 hatch d/r? Will the driveshaft just go right on, linkage hook up, and get this thing back on the road in short order, or am I going to need some special stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted May 28, 2006 Author Share Posted May 28, 2006 Will I need a different driveshaft, modify linkages, perform entire operation within a circle of salt, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnman38 Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 You need the large ea81 fly wheel ,pressure plate Then you need the friction plate from an 85 ea82 with six springs use the ea82 clutch fork and throw out you have to mount the ea82 trans mounts to the ea81 crossmember And I believe that you need a drive line made and 46 inches of tubing would work (brastarus1) will know fo sure on drive line lenght Brats are us( jerry) makes a kit for it you should get a hold of him and see if you can work it out Will I need a different driveshaft, modify linkages, perform entire operation within a circle of salt, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted June 14, 2006 Author Share Posted June 14, 2006 To get back on this subject, will the EA-82 disk fit in the EA-81 flywheel, or do I need to change the flywheel too? Which one do I need if I do have to change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunslinger Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 read my write up on the swap in the USRM for important points that i noticed. you need the WHOLE 5 SP clutch setup. mix matching wont work. dont forget to take off the clutch inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. it wont even let the flywheel turn at all. driveline - i welded mounts on the car for an EA82 wagon carrior bearing driveline. then i took one of my wagon drivelines and cut (i think about 3") the half that isnt attatched to the carrier bearing. cut it RIGHT at the factory weld - make sure to just cut the .120 wall of the outer tube because there is a sleeve in there that will fit right back in the other end of your cut to line it all up right. weld it good - factory good. shops wont even balance a driveline if you tell them you welded on it. so make sure to weld it good. paint it flat black and then let it bounce around in the back of your truck for a week (to get it looking slightly old) and go have it balanced. DONT drive it without balancing it. it will vibrate like crazy and throw out your trans and diff bearings if let gone too long. oh, and youll need to lift the car. shelby rattles like crazy because the trans is smashed right up against the bottom of the car. or smash the HELL out of the trans tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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