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I'm not sure if this is in the right forum, because I'm not quite sure where my problem is coming from. My 93 Impreza has a horrendous vibration. It's noticeable at an idle, but it's at it's worst at speeds over 50. I've checked my tires, no signs of bulges or a bad tire. I'm thinking it's either bad motor mounts, or something else. Also, the vibration seems to stop and then start again by itself at highway speeds; and I can feel it mostly in my seat, more than in the steering wheel.

 

Help!

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I'm not sure if this is in the right forum, because I'm not quite sure where my problem is coming from. My 93 Impreza has a horrendous vibration. It's noticeable at an idle, but it's at it's worst at speeds over 50. I've checked my tires, no signs of bulges or a bad tire. I'm thinking it's either bad motor mounts, or something else. Also, the vibration seems to stop and then start again by itself at highway speeds; and I can feel it mostly in my seat, more than in the steering wheel.

 

Help!

 

If its when the car is stoped, its not a tire. Maybe a fouled spark plug?

 

nipper

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Ok lets start with basics, how many miles and which tranny. Does it do it cold or all the time. What happnes on turns. Is there any noise that goes along with this. When was the last time somone checked the wheel bearings and cv joints?

 

nipper

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Your going to make this tough arent you. I dont know if imprezzas have a center carrier bearing on the driveshaft to the rear wheels. if it does check that. Also rotate the tires one at a time and see if the vibration moves

 

 

nipper

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LOL, Im not trying to make it hard, I swear. Im still learning (taking auto classes in college). I know I need an alignment, but I'll also try the things you suggested.

So you dont think its worn motor mounts? It feels like the vibration isnt in any one side, it feels like its from the front and I can feel it more in my seat than my steering wheel.

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Just Pima Community College. I just started 3 weeks ago. Im thinking of getting into Automotive Engerneering Technology. Dunno where though, but since Pima is only a 2 year college, I have time to decide on a 4 year.

 

WOHOO! I have an associates degree in automotive engineering technology from SUNY at Farmingdale. The program is ABET accredited, only one on the east coast. I ran out of money to go further in the feild, as automotive engineering schools are very pricey and few and far between.

I'm thinking of going back, have to see where my lawsuit from the major car aaccident goes.

 

nipper

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I saw some schools in my search that were not just Auto specific for AET. Many state universities have the program I believe. The University of Arizona does I think, as well as one in Detroit

 

here on the east coast they are few and far between. i hate to date myself but when i was going to college (80's) detroit was the last place you wanted to be. There were also fewer schools.

So are you going into this cold, or always have played with engines?

 

nipper

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http://cgi.ebay.com/INTERNATIONAL-TEXTBOOK-16-AUTOMOTIVE-REPAIR-BOOKS-1940_W0QQitemZ4652916750QQihZ002QQcategoryZ378QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

get something like this. It will give you good basics. Once cars got away from coal dust nothing really has changed. (if you dont want it ill bid on it. I have a great 1940's repair book that covers everything, and you can see the evolution of the modern automobile.

The only thing that has changed is the way they manage things. Next HUGE change is direct injection of gasoline and electronic valave actuation

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It's noticeable at an idle, but it's at it's worst at speeds over 50

 

before i went back an reread your post,i was gonna mention wheel-bearings.but seeing that it happens while not in motion...Hmm,never been good at troubleshooting :-\

 

 

 

what about that dogbone looking bar that attaches to the top backside of the engine.i think it's called a pitch wedge (or something like it)

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If it happens while at idle and not moving, it has nothing to do with the wheels, bearings or driveshaft.

 

Nipper was right that the motor mounts are fairly strong, but if the engine wasn't supported properly when your transmission was removed, there's a good chance they were ripped at that point.

 

With the car on ramps, get underneath and inspect the two mounts between the engine and front crossmember. If you can use a jack to push up on the oil pan while your inspecting them. DON'T lift the car using the oil pan, just put some pressure on it to raise the engine a bit.

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I was going to say it kinda sounds like it is not firing on one cylinder.. or firing out of order. It could also be a radiator fan going south.. I have had radiator fans that shook the living hell out my cars. If you would like me to take a look at it and see if we can narrow it down a little bit, I don't mind.

( elijafir@cox.net )

-Eli-

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