Davalos Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Hey all: I did the search on "Roof Racks" and I found a bunch of posts & references ... mostly aftermarket stuff and self-fabricated ones (some cool ideas, tho). My Loyale is pretty cool, except for 2 things. Well, maybe 3, but gun-turrets weren't offered in the '90 (I looked it up). Roof Racks and 4WD - I notice the 4WDs sit a little higher than their 2WD counterparts – what's goin' on down there? Anyway – roof-racks ... the factory ones ... Are they riveted in there, or just sheet screws? Counter-bolts or anchors? Before I go tearin' out the headliners @ the junkyard, I'd like to know what I'm getting into. I'm assuming Subaru is smarter than GM and uses more than double-sided sticky-tape ... My strength needs are pretty modest - a simple 7’ fiberglass ladder I could bungee up there would make me happy - 40 lbs max probably – and it would keep the right side of my head from getting bashed-in every time I stop (that’s what happens when you put it inside). I swear I won't try & put my 40-footer on there, I swear it! Hell, I'd need a red flag on BOTH ends, hehe! Btw - I want to avoid the ones that clamp to the gutters – that’s just askin' for rust in my experience ... but again, I come from the Ford thing. I think Ford puts time-delay corrosive agents in their steel ... set to go-off and activate immediately after you make your last payment. Anyone ever cannibalize racks, or make switches from one Loyale to another? Is it a worthy cause, or should I just stick with aftermarket stuff? Any ideas would rock, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Yakima or Thule make gutter mount racks. They can be found at a junkyard on ALOT of older japanese and german cars. Dont mess with drilling into your roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ever Victorious Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Yakima or Thule make gutter mount racks. They can be found at a junkyard on ALOT of older japanese and german cars. Dont mess with drilling into your roof. Besides the fact that the OEM roof racks are VERY difficult to remove after a decade or so because the screws are so rusted.... if you DID go that route, you'd need all new fasteners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogiesdad Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 I've got a pair of racks I got at a yard sale--aluminum brackets set up for 2x4s and rubber sheathed gutter mounts. I've had ladders, paneling, a couple sheets of drywall, no problem. A few good milk crates will help keep your odds 'n ends together in the back. I'm on my third sooby wagon, and they make good work vehicles if you don't have to move all your stuff all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 Does anyone have any experience (or problems) with rust on the gutter-mounted ones? I suppose I could be talked into those ... y'all think its a mistake to cannibalize, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Pre-treat your gutters before you install them to ensure rust wont develop. Maybe some spray on rubber or some sort of caulk to keep water and moisture out. My rack is mounted with a gutter mount type system... and i havent seen any rust. But, I do live in California so rust is alien to us here. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBrizat Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Some hard-earned advice: If you ever actually put a bike on that roof rack, be sure to take it off before you pull into your garage. Yeah, I know. And the bad part is that I'd been mocking two of my buddies for having done the same thing a couple years earlier. The bike was fine, but the Yakima pedistals we're bent up, and the roof was dented and scratched. Luckily it was only a Civic. Ha! Got 'er in out of the rain, tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W. Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 I have been really happy with my Yakima gutter mounted rack The other day I hauled a 4"x4"x12' iron pipe (well over a hundred lbs) home on the rack with out any damage. The rack has been on the car for several years with no rust or wear noted to the gutters. Cheers, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 Bump ... I picked-up a roof-rack, and looked@ the gutters ... it really seems like they're kinda flimsy on my Loyale. Also, It looks like I'll shatter a window if I close the door without rolling the window down 1/4 inch ... I see the pics above, but does that really hold? My gutters look like they're just clipped on with some sheet-clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Im able to shake the car with my roof rack, they hold very secure and ive never had a problem. I dipped the brackets in rubber to keep them from destroying my paint job, but I could really care less. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 The gutters aren't as substantial as some, but they seem to be adequate. It does help to roll down the window a bit depending on the clamp design, and other unknown factors. With my Thule racks, I have to roll down the driver's side window to close the door without hitting the rack clamp, but not the passsenger side. I have no idea why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 I just got my grubby mitts on some Yakima SST Mk II Racks that I can use to try them out. I guess they're about 10-12 years old, and I'm reading the directions & I see it mentioning something about replacing the side clamps with manufacturer specific side mounts. Anyone know how well (if) these puppies fit, and how I can get my paws on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I just got my grubby mitts on some Yakima SST Mk II Racks that I can use to try them out. I guess they're about 10-12 years old, and I'm reading the directions & I see it mentioning something about replacing the side clamps with manufacturer specific side mounts. Anyone know how well (if) these puppies fit, and how I can get my paws on them? I as well have a yakima rack.The mounts that I have that I use on my hatch and will work on any wagon I am sure are the: "Q" mounts.Don't know if that is what you are after,but I have had really good sucess with those being really sturdy.I have put a mountain bike up there on cross country trips and big boxes ect.Hope that helps a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 The Subaru gutters are not the most robust, but seem to be adequate. I have Thule racks. Way too much money, but there is not much of an alternative. If you can find a set of Terzo racks at the wrecker, grab 'em, as they have way better towers that clamp the bars with an allen key bolt, instead of the mickeymouse set up the Thules use. The windows clear the bracket on the passenger side, but do not on the driver's side. No idea why they fit dfferently, something wierd in the car's frame? Twisted unibody? I have to roll the window down a hair, or else it touches the clamp. Doesn't seem to hit it hard enough to break anything, but.... Watch for the clips that hold the plastic "chrome" trim strip to the gutter. Place the towers so as to avoid them. One thing I like about the Subaru is the gutters go right to the back of the car. It is possible to place the racks really far apart, great for carrying things like long ladders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 I as well have a yakima rack.The mounts that I have that I use on my hatch and will work on any wagon I am sure are the: "Q" mounts.Don't know if that is what you are after,but I have had really good sucess with those being really sturdy.I have put a mountain bike up there on cross country trips and big boxes ect.Hope that helps a little. Well, I found out. I need what they call "1-A" Raingutter Towers, and the onse that came with this are "Q" Towers, and they evidently are the other kind of mount (not for my '90 Loyale, anyway). So, basically all that's good here would be the bars. Still trying to figure out if it's worth it. Anyone out there know a good source to find some used ones? The place where I contacted to find out what new ones would cost made me want to drive rusty nails thru my forehead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbarber Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I have the Terzo racks and I love 'em. I can't recommend them highly enough for their strength and ease of set up. I bought them for my '86 Corolla back in 1993 and they're still going strong. The standard height towers fit any car with raingutters and there are taller towers for roofs that need grater clearance. I used to race road bikes and I could put four of them on the roof of the Corolla. Now that I have the Loyale wagon, I can put on a third rail and put the bike trailer up there. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burtonsnowman Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I have the raingutter mount Yakimas. They are beefy...strong...rubust...manly...chunky...tough...strong... I love them. I haul all kinds of crap around with my racks. The only thing I've done that busted them is dragging a log (stupid, I know...). But other than that, they hold up like no other. My paint is unaffected after seven months of use. Anything that touches paint, Yakima puts rubber over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Here are a couple pics of my roof rack. I have had 300-400 lbs on it. For long items I put an X with ratchet straps on the front, down to the tow hooks. The front part detaches with 6 pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burtonsnowman Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 I've held about 400 lbs. (the weight of two grown people on lawn chairs) with my Yakima gutter-mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 Welp ... it looks like I've got my hands on some 1A RainGutter Towers - I actually went to a ski-shop to look at some & they let me "test fit" them (meaning just lay them on the gutters to see if they fit). It looks like if I want to keep the trim piece from popping, I should make a notch on the bottom of the trim so it can grab the gutters without popping the trim. I can take my little mini-grinder and eek-off maybe 1/4" just wide enough for the "grabbers" to get around it. Anyone else do this, or is it really not necessary? Another question ... any REASON to keep the trim? It's not like I'm gonna enter my Soob in any car-shows or anything ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 For long items I put an X with ratchet straps on the front, down to the tow hooks. Holy crap, dude - that's radical! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RONAN Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 I installed the roof or luggage track rails on my 93 and mounted a bauer extended cargo basket to it. Being involved with the boyscouts, I`ve had 5 fully loaded backpacks on sides on top before or I`m guessing close to 400lbs. I also installed a cargo basket on my 88 Justy because of the lack of space in the car. I use it all of the time. I`ve had as much as 250lbs loaded. I installed rails from a volvo wgn cut down and made my own mounting brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted November 2, 2006 Author Share Posted November 2, 2006 The biggest thing I'll put up there will be a 24; ladder. that's like 12' long, but I'm wondering if there are going to be strong sheer forces goin' on around corners & stuff ... I guess we'll see! The 1As are gonna come in the mail here pretty soon, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 I'm wondering if there are going to be strong sheer forces goin' on around corners & stuff ... That is what I found the X nescisary for. The weight is supported by the 6" wide aluminum plates setting in the gutters and the 2 front verticals. The front - back inertia is handled by 8 bolts into the special stock roof rack nuts. With the X, I can grab the rack at the front and shake the entire car side to side without moving the rack relative to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 I just finished adding a missing rail on the wagon. I have 6 now from previous cars (98 bucks to replace just one!). I found that on the ends of each rail screwed to the roof, they don't go to the end enough. So to maximize the seperation of the rails,for strength needed, I put in some 3/16 "fathead" aluminum rivets on all ends of the rails including those in the middle. Then siliconed all edges with permatex (the good stuff). With one rail left, cut in half- it will add 22 inches to each outside rail for the racks, bringing it to 5 feet 6 inches, and of course it mates perfectly to the full rails already there- they are the same. Using the longer slide nut and a washer, right over the seam for better integration/strength.The extra 22 inches sits in a good spot, no bending will rivet down easily. A 20 ft ladder even seems possible. I even thought of the rocker panels strength as a result... (it was a joke about my old wagon that bent in the middle- I coincidentally had the roof racks off that day. ) I will not understimate the strength of the lamination, after proving to myself the outrageous weight and length of things hauled- Is it just me, or do the wagons need those rails? I have seen those without, and recently passed up on a mpfi turbo wagon literally falling apart- and I noticed it had not a single roof rack rail.... Coincidence that it was falling apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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