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replacing clutch disc questions


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I've got a 1991 Loyale with badly worn clutch disc (easy to rev engine without car moving). So I figured I'd replace it this weekend. I've never done this before and am looking for any feedback before I get started. Is it easiest to pull the engine? Is there anything I should know not to do or is it pretty straightforward? Thanks.

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I can recommend the NAPA - Beaverton Auto Parts store for getting your flywheel resurfaced. The turn-around time was 1 hour for me this week. Bring your AAA card for a price discount. Total cost was $49.25 for the resurfacing, new pilot bearing and the bearing pressed into place. Resurfacing and bearing replacement was $32.50 by istself with the AAA card.

 

Would also replace the two wire clips that hold the release/through-out bearing to the fork - about $5 from a dealer.

 

If you take out the clutch fork to grease the pivot ball, the metal clip orientation is counter-intuitive (at least for me).

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its a 91... I dont think you need to get the flywheel resurfaced unless the flywheel side of the clutch disc is worn down to the rivets. The way they designed the discs, the pressure plate side almost always wears down before the flywheel.

 

You can do it in the car, but its alot easier to lift the engine out.

 

Take radiator out

disconnect fuel lines/heater core lines

remove rubbber air intake boot

unclip the two main elec bundles and disty wires right below the coil

unbolt power steering pump (leave hoses hooked up)

unbolt AC compressor (leave hoses hooked up) should sit where the battery goes to get it out of the way.

drop exhaust (4x14mm nuts)

engine mounts (2x14mm nuts)

unbolt 4 bell housing bolts (14 mm)

pitch stopper/throttle cable

 

and you should be set to pull it out. If you have a engine hoist you can do this job in about 3 hrs if its your first time

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Torxxx, you gave me this list:

 

its alot easier to lift the engine out.

 

Take radiator out

disconnect fuel lines/heater core lines

remove rubbber air intake boot

unclip the two main elec bundles and disty wires right below the coil

unbolt power steering pump (leave hoses hooked up)

unbolt AC compressor (leave hoses hooked up) should sit where the battery goes to get it out of the way.

drop exhaust (4x14mm nuts)

engine mounts (2x14mm nuts)

unbolt 4 bell housing bolts (14 mm)

pitch stopper/throttle cable

 

 

 

But my AC unit has solid pipes going to it, not flexible hoses. There's no way to move it unless I disconnect the hoses, and then I have to pay to get the AC recharged (as well as knock another hole in the ozone layer) Am I missing something?

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its got solid pipes but they should have some flex in them. enough to set the air pump to the side, or flip it over onto the battery box. Unless you have a different setup than the usual stock. I've pulled engines without purging the freon.

 

If not, they make a storage container that plugs into one of the fittings ont he AC lines. it just takes the freon out of the system and stores it into a bottle. Then you can squirt the freon back in when you are done.

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