yeahyeah Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I've got a 1991 Loyale with badly worn clutch disc (easy to rev engine without car moving). So I figured I'd replace it this weekend. I've never done this before and am looking for any feedback before I get started. Is it easiest to pull the engine? Is there anything I should know not to do or is it pretty straightforward? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Just my opinion - if you have the equipment, pull the engine first. But do all the other maintenance things once the engine is out, like timing belts, seals, etc. to make the most of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I can recommend the NAPA - Beaverton Auto Parts store for getting your flywheel resurfaced. The turn-around time was 1 hour for me this week. Bring your AAA card for a price discount. Total cost was $49.25 for the resurfacing, new pilot bearing and the bearing pressed into place. Resurfacing and bearing replacement was $32.50 by istself with the AAA card. Would also replace the two wire clips that hold the release/through-out bearing to the fork - about $5 from a dealer. If you take out the clutch fork to grease the pivot ball, the metal clip orientation is counter-intuitive (at least for me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 its a 91... I dont think you need to get the flywheel resurfaced unless the flywheel side of the clutch disc is worn down to the rivets. The way they designed the discs, the pressure plate side almost always wears down before the flywheel. You can do it in the car, but its alot easier to lift the engine out. Take radiator out disconnect fuel lines/heater core lines remove rubbber air intake boot unclip the two main elec bundles and disty wires right below the coil unbolt power steering pump (leave hoses hooked up) unbolt AC compressor (leave hoses hooked up) should sit where the battery goes to get it out of the way. drop exhaust (4x14mm nuts) engine mounts (2x14mm nuts) unbolt 4 bell housing bolts (14 mm) pitch stopper/throttle cable and you should be set to pull it out. If you have a engine hoist you can do this job in about 3 hrs if its your first time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 pull the engine i have done it both ways and it is much easier to pull the engine and do it. but it can be done in the car it just takes more patience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeahyeah Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 I appreciate everybody's advice. Hopefully all goes well tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeahyeah Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 Torxxx, you gave me this list: its alot easier to lift the engine out. Take radiator out disconnect fuel lines/heater core lines remove rubbber air intake boot unclip the two main elec bundles and disty wires right below the coil unbolt power steering pump (leave hoses hooked up) unbolt AC compressor (leave hoses hooked up) should sit where the battery goes to get it out of the way. drop exhaust (4x14mm nuts) engine mounts (2x14mm nuts) unbolt 4 bell housing bolts (14 mm) pitch stopper/throttle cable But my AC unit has solid pipes going to it, not flexible hoses. There's no way to move it unless I disconnect the hoses, and then I have to pay to get the AC recharged (as well as knock another hole in the ozone layer) Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 its got solid pipes but they should have some flex in them. enough to set the air pump to the side, or flip it over onto the battery box. Unless you have a different setup than the usual stock. I've pulled engines without purging the freon. If not, they make a storage container that plugs into one of the fittings ont he AC lines. it just takes the freon out of the system and stores it into a bottle. Then you can squirt the freon back in when you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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