Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

drilled/slotted rotors worth it??


Recommended Posts

1987 subaru gl 4wd wagon, not sure what pads...will be replacing them, reccomendations? my driving habits are random, drive "fast and furious" sometimes but after its lifted and i get the big tires under it wont be driving too crazy but want the best breaking possible without having to do the rear disk conversion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slotted is a consideration. They don't warp a easily (if properly slotted), and they will keep the mud and crap cleared off the pads a little better offroad. Plus, you can use a bit more aggressive pad, as the slotting helps heat them up quicker.

 

"Without having to do the rear disk conversion" This statement doesn't make much sense. With rear disks, the car will stop much better, it's not alot of work on that car, and it's only about $100 for good used parts. If the fronts don't really need to be done yet, do the rear disks first!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i highly recomend slotted rotors (actually mine are drilled and slotted) i run them on my hyundai, and the increase in brake power is actually amazing, my brakes used to heat up alot, as i drive kind of aggressivly, but i have been running these for about 6 months, and no warping or anything!to me they were worth the extra bucks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cross drilled rotors are going to be much more prone to cracking, and neither the slotted or the drilled rotors can be machined iirc.

 

The reason that cross drilled and slotted rotors were used in the past was because the brake pads created gases that had to be removed or the brakes would become ineffective, todays pads are virtually gas free, and there is no reason to use either style unless you are going for looks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm assuming that when you put on the slotted rotors you also changed pads, and maybe bled your brakes? doing just those two things will make a big difference.

 

I agree. Actual bigger rotors FTW. I have read around aslo as I was looking into gettin drilled and slotted rotors and learned about how new pads and all have gotten rid of such need, and the only real way for jump in stopping power is to just go bigger brakes, XT6 anyone? :slobber:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they will keep the mud and crap cleared off the pads a little better offroad

Notice I didn't say that he should get slotted to help with cooling and off-gassing. I had a different reason for suggesting the slotting.

Also, it's interesting to note that even though new pad compositions do not have the same gassing problems that older ones have, performance and racing brake packages still usually come with slots - could this mean something?

If you check the FAQ's of reputable brake manufacturer's web sites, you'll find some answers. They usually say nothing about gasses, they usually say to stay away from drilled for most applications (some exceptions can be found), and when they mention reasons to slot, you'll find basically the same reason I mentioned: to clear debris from the pad/rotor interface area. Whether it be brake dust, water, or dirt/mud, slots help clear it. There's also mention of less pad glazing (the slots help scrub the pads better, reducing glazing problems)

So, I stand by my recommendation of slotted rotors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lots of good arguments. about how long does it take to change the rear drums to rear disks. my drums and shoes aren't in that bad of shape right now though.....but my front rotors are warped pretty bad and machined slightly past the min so need to change them asap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason that cross drilled and slotted rotors were used in the past was because the brake pads created gases that had to be removed or the brakes would become ineffective, todays pads are virtually gas free, and there is no reason to use either style unless you are going for looks.

 

One more note, organic pads are still widely used in street applications (usually the least expensive option at the parts counter is the organic). In race applications, though, organic is gone (most people quoting the "gas free" argument are often getting the information from a race-oriented article, ie Williams Performance Friction).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lots of good arguments. about how long does it take to change the rear drums to rear disks. my drums and shoes aren't in that bad of shape right now though.....but my front rotors are warped pretty bad and machined slightly past the min so need to change them asap.

Depends on type of tools used, amount of rust, etc. I can see it taking an hour or less, or several hours if you run into problems (just like any other work on an older car).

Bottom line, if your fronts are shot, check the $ options at the parts store. I say, if the slotted are only about $5 more a piece, go for it. If you can get your hands on the rear set (j/y or marketplace forum), go for that, too. Whatever you do, don't forget a full flush/bleed of the fluid, and check your pads, lines, and suspension components while you're under there!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...