BlindSight Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 found these on ebay and was wondering if this was a good price and if anyone has tried any of them and if is worth the extra cash or should i just go with some oreilly cheapos or something similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 What car are you using them on? What kind of pads are you using? What are your driving habits/style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlindSight Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 1987 subaru gl 4wd wagon, not sure what pads...will be replacing them, reccomendations? my driving habits are random, drive "fast and furious" sometimes but after its lifted and i get the big tires under it wont be driving too crazy but want the best breaking possible without having to do the rear disk conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlindSight Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I don't recommend drilled rotors. You'll warp them very quickly, especially if you drive hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlindSight Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 alrighty well i will just stick with some stock style ones then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 Slotted is a consideration. They don't warp a easily (if properly slotted), and they will keep the mud and crap cleared off the pads a little better offroad. Plus, you can use a bit more aggressive pad, as the slotting helps heat them up quicker. "Without having to do the rear disk conversion" This statement doesn't make much sense. With rear disks, the car will stop much better, it's not alot of work on that car, and it's only about $100 for good used parts. If the fronts don't really need to be done yet, do the rear disks first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 i highly recomend slotted rotors (actually mine are drilled and slotted) i run them on my hyundai, and the increase in brake power is actually amazing, my brakes used to heat up alot, as i drive kind of aggressivly, but i have been running these for about 6 months, and no warping or anything!to me they were worth the extra bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingbobdole Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 I use slotteds on my XT6 with ceramic pads... stops 100% better then stock with less heat issues.... but I can still heat them up if I try real hard:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 ya i've seen phil smoke his brakes but he did way better then aunstin:eek: did on the dragon right phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 cross drilled rotors are going to be much more prone to cracking, and neither the slotted or the drilled rotors can be machined iirc. The reason that cross drilled and slotted rotors were used in the past was because the brake pads created gases that had to be removed or the brakes would become ineffective, todays pads are virtually gas free, and there is no reason to use either style unless you are going for looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75subie Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 i still have noticed a big improvement in brake power, i have no way to explain why, but i have tried many types of rotors and pads, the drilled and slotted have been the best rotors in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 I'm assuming that when you put on the slotted rotors you also changed pads, and maybe bled your brakes? doing just those two things will make a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddygordouk Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 I'm assuming that when you put on the slotted rotors you also changed pads, and maybe bled your brakes? doing just those two things will make a big difference. I agree. Actual bigger rotors FTW. I have read around aslo as I was looking into gettin drilled and slotted rotors and learned about how new pads and all have gotten rid of such need, and the only real way for jump in stopping power is to just go bigger brakes, XT6 anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 they will keep the mud and crap cleared off the pads a little better offroad Notice I didn't say that he should get slotted to help with cooling and off-gassing. I had a different reason for suggesting the slotting. Also, it's interesting to note that even though new pad compositions do not have the same gassing problems that older ones have, performance and racing brake packages still usually come with slots - could this mean something? If you check the FAQ's of reputable brake manufacturer's web sites, you'll find some answers. They usually say nothing about gasses, they usually say to stay away from drilled for most applications (some exceptions can be found), and when they mention reasons to slot, you'll find basically the same reason I mentioned: to clear debris from the pad/rotor interface area. Whether it be brake dust, water, or dirt/mud, slots help clear it. There's also mention of less pad glazing (the slots help scrub the pads better, reducing glazing problems) So, I stand by my recommendation of slotted rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlindSight Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 lots of good arguments. about how long does it take to change the rear drums to rear disks. my drums and shoes aren't in that bad of shape right now though.....but my front rotors are warped pretty bad and machined slightly past the min so need to change them asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 The reason that cross drilled and slotted rotors were used in the past was because the brake pads created gases that had to be removed or the brakes would become ineffective, todays pads are virtually gas free, and there is no reason to use either style unless you are going for looks. One more note, organic pads are still widely used in street applications (usually the least expensive option at the parts counter is the organic). In race applications, though, organic is gone (most people quoting the "gas free" argument are often getting the information from a race-oriented article, ie Williams Performance Friction). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 where's this ebay link? I dont remember ever seeing slotted and drilled rotors for our cars. OEM will work just fine. If you want your brakes to look real cool, then go for it. Dont forget to get a can of engine enamel and paint your calipers too. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hodaka Rider Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 lots of good arguments. about how long does it take to change the rear drums to rear disks. my drums and shoes aren't in that bad of shape right now though.....but my front rotors are warped pretty bad and machined slightly past the min so need to change them asap. Depends on type of tools used, amount of rust, etc. I can see it taking an hour or less, or several hours if you run into problems (just like any other work on an older car). Bottom line, if your fronts are shot, check the $ options at the parts store. I say, if the slotted are only about $5 more a piece, go for it. If you can get your hands on the rear set (j/y or marketplace forum), go for that, too. Whatever you do, don't forget a full flush/bleed of the fluid, and check your pads, lines, and suspension components while you're under there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 where's this ebay link? I dont remember ever seeing slotted and drilled rotors for our cars. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1600-1800-DL-GL-Loyale-XT-Drill-Slot-Rotors-disc_W0QQitemZ290001170889QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33564QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Can't vouch for their quality in any way of course , but there they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 I dont know if I would trust those ones on ebay. Buy em and give em a shot. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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