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price question for AC recharge


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you'll need to convert it from R-12 to R134A which they make a kit to do so with. Last one I got was roughly 70 bucks but that was about a year ago, maybe longer so the price might have dropped. Then you can get your AC recharged at a local shop for anywhere from 50-100 bucks.

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Your lookin at spending big bucks at any auto shop to have your stuff converted. Ive never used a conversion kit, but I did have a friend with some extra bottles of R12 and he recharged my Brat. One can was enough and i was amazed how well the A/C worked after that.

 

Find someone certified, and have them buy this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/r12-r-12-freon-refrigerant-r-12-new-12-ounce-NATIONAL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQitemZ8076912971QQrdZ1

 

Would make it alot easier.

 

-Brian

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How hard is it to do the conversion I know my old subaru has freon (is that R-12?) and if it ever needs to be switch out I will have to do it because filling that thing with more freon is expensive and illegal...

 

R-12 and R134a are both "freon" just different types.

 

How hard depends on your skill level. If you can change out a spark plug and can read at a 10th grade level it should be within your grasp.

 

GD

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what about evacuating the original r12? must this be done before the conversion?

 

mine runs pretty good with it's original r12 but converting seems tempting to get it ice cold..

 

the kits ive seen come with adaptors and fill instructions.. but what about the trace amounts left when not vacuumed out? or is this even an issue?

 

 

rllywgn

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R12 is a gas at room temp - it will evac itself right into the atmosphere if you open a line. Only thing left in the system will be compressor oil and possibly moisture. Generally a vacuum is pulled on the system to check for leaks, and to rid the system of contaminates and moisture. The R12 itself will be long gone as soon as the line is cracked.

 

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what about evacuating the original r12? must this be done before the conversion?

 

That and if it leaked out enough, you want to get the air an moisture out also. I posted a description of how to make your own vacuume pump for little cost a while back.

 

It is also a good idea to find the leak. Look for oil around the fittings and AC components. Or put in the dye made for finding leaks.

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A few observations:

 

Keep in mind that it's technically illegal to discharge R12 into the

atmosphere - depletes the ozone, they say.

 

If it hits your skin, instant frostbite. be careful around this stuff.

 

You may be able to sell the R12. Ask your local AC guy about the cost to remove R12 (that's how you're supposed to remove it anyhow) and what they might give you for any they remove.

 

R12 is works better than R134A. So it should be colder if you fix and recharge the R12 vs converting.

 

Whatever you decide, good luck!

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just reinforcing a few A/C facts.

 

worknig on your A/C system without the proper equipment is technically not legal. for good reason.

 

before charging a system you should always have it evacuated and perform a vacume test to see if its evin worth dumping new "freon" into the system.

 

The "kits" are not the right way to do the job. there are several other steps and conponents that should be changed that they do not address.

 

A/C systems are one of the most tricky parts of the car to diagnose and repair corectly.

 

anyone can add some refrigerant to the system. but it may only last a short while unless all other issues addressed.

 

yes both R12 and 134A directly contribute to the depletion of the ozone layer. more so than many other gasses we release from our cars every day. thats why its inportant to recover and recycle refrigerants carefully. its not that hard to do the job right.

 

A/C work can be performed correctly by the home mechaic as long they have acess to the proper equipment and undrstand how to do the job right.

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just reinforcing a few A/C facts.

 

worknig on your A/C system without the proper equipment is technically not legal. for good reason.

 

before charging a system you should always have it evacuated and perform a vacume test to see if its evin worth dumping new "freon" into the system.

 

The "kits" are not the right way to do the job. there are several other steps and conponents that should be changed that they do not address.

 

A/C systems are one of the most tricky parts of the car to diagnose and repair corectly.

 

anyone can add some refrigerant to the system. but it may only last a short while unless all other issues addressed.

 

yes both R12 and 134A directly contribute to the depletion of the ozone layer. more so than many other gasses we release from our cars every day. thats why its inportant to recover and recycle refrigerants carefully. its not that hard to do the job right.

 

A/C work can be performed correctly by the home mechaic as long they have acess to the proper equipment and undrstand how to do the job right.

 

i agree with you, its easier with some pressure in the system so i can use my leak detectors though.

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Only thing left in the system will be compressor oil and possibly moisture.
should be some R12 left in there. as soon as you crack the line....the pressure will drop only to the point where it's in equilibrium with amospheric pressure then no more will come out unless it's forced or pulled out.

 

what i've found is it's best to replace any o-rings and both schrader valves once the system is open. for $1.00 in parts it's silly not to and really easy. also check the...what's the radiator looking thing in front of the radiator...i think that's the condensor, check that as it's the most prone to leakage in my experience due to accidents, rocks, debris, etc.

 

after that charge away. a friend told me to pull all the R12 out, use R134 that has R12 compatible oil and charge with 134. i've followed that, always replace the o-rings and schrader valves and it works great. vaccuum pullers can be had for 10 - 20 bucks from harbor freights. seems to do the trick.

 

gauges are nice for seeing a leak, but if you don't have them, pull a vaccuum and let the car sit overnight. press the schrader valve in with a screwdriver and if you hear it sucking/pulling air in that means it held a vaccuum over night and is probably good to go. if it leaks the pressure will equalize with atmosphere overnight and you won't hear anything when you press the valve in the next day. not ideal, but it's a way to do it without gauges.

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R-12 is still legal to own, purchase, sell, use, or trade for chocolate milk at lunchtime... it is illegal to manufacture it. any still existing in cans is like gold, at about 30-50 dollars for a standard sized, 12 oz can.

 

i found a can in a junkyard car once, along with an R12 oil charge... my eyes popped outta my head, and i grabbed 'em.. just kinda flashed them at the guy when i was walking out thinking he would just wave me thru.. he says "gimme that, lemme see that.." and i (idiotically) handed it to him.. the oil too.. then he laughed at me and says "what are you, kidding me?! this (stuff) is like gold!!"

 

stupid jerk.

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R-12 is still legal to own, purchase, sell, use, or trade for chocolate milk at lunchtime... it is illegal to manufacture it.

 

yes its legal to use if you have all the right equipment. along with 134a.

 

but these are little details that dont really effect the toppic.

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