GeneralDisorder Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 To avoid all this testing and hassle, you can just put the resistor right under the dash from ECU pin 4 to ground. That will stop the code FOR SURE. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 Okay, to make sure I have this straight: The code 34 is a "fluke" ... kinda. Meaning, it's not the EGR valve, or its operation, it's simply an electrical "bug" that the solenoid is throwing out in error. There is really nothing mechanically wrong. The fix described in this thread is merely to turn off the light, not to fix whatever the solenoid is supposed to be doing. Fixing whatever the solenoid is supposed to be doing has no benefit, other to the environment. If replacing the solenoids don't fix it, it's the wiring to the solenoids that are the problem, and that is why the resistor-fix is suggested. Replacing the EGR Valve itself will not help, and has no benefit. There are no gas mileage benefits, no performance benefits, no benefits whatsoever to the driver or the car. The only disadvantage to putting a piece of tape over the light is that if anything other than "Code 34" comes up, I won't see it. Leave it alone, Davalos, we are all sick of this topic. These are all correct? Because if so, I'm gonna spend my time on the dash-clock instead ... that'll benefit me in that it'll tell me how much TIME i'm spending on this thing, hehe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 The EGR valve and the EGR solenoid are two different things. One is mechanical and the other is electrical. Instructions were given how to solve this problem in earlier posts. I guess it's up to you if you want to solve the problem or not by following them. If it was my car, I would fix the problem and not try to fool the ECU with a resistor so that things are working as they were designed to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Okay, to make sure I have this straight: The code 34 is a "fluke" ... kinda. Meaning, it's not the EGR valve, or its operation, it's simply an electrical "bug" that the solenoid is throwing out in error. There is really nothing mechanically wrong. The fix described in this thread is merely to turn off the light, not to fix whatever the solenoid is supposed to be doing. Fixing whatever the solenoid is supposed to be doing has no benefit, other to the environment. If replacing the solenoids don't fix it, it's the wiring to the solenoids that are the problem, and that is why the resistor-fix is suggested. Replacing the EGR Valve itself will not help, and has no benefit. There are no gas mileage benefits, no performance benefits, no benefits whatsoever to the driver or the car. The only disadvantage to putting a piece of tape over the light is that if anything other than "Code 34" comes up, I won't see it. Leave it alone, Davalos, we are all sick of this topic. These are all correct? Because if so, I'm gonna spend my time on the dash-clock instead ... that'll benefit me in that it'll tell me how much TIME i'm spending on this thing, hehe! 1. Kindof. The code means the solenoid has malfuntioned. The EGR valve itself (which is controled by the solenoid) it purely mechanical, and while it does need to be cleaned every 60k or so, the ECU cannot tell if it's working or not. 2. Correct. The resistor "looks" like a solenoid to the ECU, so it assumes it's working, and the code vanishes. 3. Correct. 4. No - the resistor is just a replacement for the solenoid that appears to the ECU to be a working solenoid. If the wireing is somehow messed up, then the resistor won't work either unless as I sugested you put the resistor under the dash AT the ECU's terminal 4. 5. Correct. Replacing the valve itself will do nothing. 6. Correct. The EGR does not help this engine in any of those aspects. It's sole purpose is to lower specific (env. harmful) emissions components. 7. Incorrect - the ECU will only stand a certian number of codes before it goes into "limp" mode. This will reduce your mileage, etc. Every code should be cleared to insure the ECU is running the correct fuel and timing maps. 8. WELL....no comment. Just make the code go away. Either replace the solenoid, and clear all the codes, or put the resistor in and clear the codes. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 however much the ecu monitors gadgets.. there is a scenario where valve can actually be bad, and the electrical one stays good, triggering no CEL at all. The EGR valve below ca'nt seal closed. My 2wd has been a lunatic/"EGR pig" for many years with no CEL light on....Problem unknown until I got my intuition going with it. When it was seated as much as it could, hard throttle forced it open on its own. no matter what some may do with this stuff to keep it oem, there is a line to be drawn. I have drawn mine. It will never be on my ea82 ever again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proteus503 Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Agreed, 100%. free bumpage for an excellent read. I've been through a similar situation with my toyota tacoma 4-cylinders (yes, plural). The EGR dumps so much carbon and crap back into the intake manifold, that the EGR simply isnt worth having on the engine in the first place. Prolonged existance of the EGR system leads to carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, which causes pinging if left uncleaned. nothing a can of sea-foam cant fix... but long story short, definately kill the egr. Removing the EGR HAS (in my experience) raised Exhaust Gas Temperatures, but nothing drastic. If anything, I've noticed a boost in MPG (not sure if thats attributed to lowered intake air temps, or higher exhaust temps). anywho... sounds like we need some EGR block plates. I'd be happy to cut some block plates out at work. I work with 304L and 316L stainless all the live long day. Just want to throw a feeler out there before I dig myself a big hole.... who all would be interested in some nice stainless steel EGR block plates? say... Polished 304L SS, 1/4" - 3/8" thick? what would be a fair price for a pair? however much the ecu monitors gadgets.. there is a scenario where valve can actually be bad, and the electrical one stays good, triggering no CEL at all. The EGR valve below ca'nt seal closed. My 2wd has been a lunatic/"EGR pig" for many years with no CEL light on....Problem unknown until I got my intuition going with it. When it was seated as much as it could, hard throttle forced it open on its own. no matter what some may do with this stuff to keep it oem, there is a line to be drawn. I have drawn mine. It will never be on my ea82 ever again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 Wow - that's awesome. I have no idea how much something like that's worth ... certainly more than it'd cost to make - you're certainly got some value-added parts here ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proteus503 Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 How about $25 (shipping included) for a pair to the lower 48 states? I'll need some time to pull my EGR in order to make a template though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goobaroo Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 hells yeah i could use one of them, i just put some seafoam in to clean that crap out, i dont really want to have to do it that often. quality block plates sounds like a great idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davalos Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Bump. Sound like there's a couple people waiting to hear how it goes ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Or you can just soak the lower end (not the diaphram) in a shallow container of carb cleaner overnight and it will come out looking new. I just disconnect the vacuum tube, and block off the passage from the head (take the pipe off, cut each end off, smash the tube flat and run a weld bead across it). I've had a lot of EA engines, and all were done this way. Never had a problem. Manifold is under vacuum - it cannot "open" the EGR without the hose being routed to the back of the diaphram. Sometimes the valve can stick in the open posistion due to carbon build up in the valve body, but this is easily corrected with the carb cleaner treatment. As mentioned, the value of the EGR is non-existant, and it does contribute to cylinder deposits. I don't *use* the valve, but I do clean it, and reinstall it without being hooked up as it does a fine job of being it's own block-off plate. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now