Sarge Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 I am going to drill my hubs to run 6 lug rims. I need to find a few wheel makers that carry a 14x6 rim with pretty good backspacing. I am only gonna run 27x7" and 27x9.5" tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Sure... did you check google? Did you check my rim thread either? There are a few manufacturers out there that have what your looking for. Summit Racing sells brand new 14" 6 lug rims for under $30 a piece. I got my rims from a Chevy Luv. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Junkie, do you know the offset on your rims? I just searched for your rim post and couldn't find it... what do I search for? Do Chevy, Ford, and Yota all have different 6 lug patterns? I need to know what I am looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrap487 Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Junkie, do you know the offset on your rims? I just searched for your rim post and couldn't find it... what do I search for?Do Chevy, Ford, and Yota all have different 6 lug patterns? I need to know what I am looking for. the lug pattern itself is 6 lugs on a 5.5 inch circle, aka 6x5.5, which is what almost EVERY six lug rim is. I have no idea what the backspacing should be really, but I run 29x10.50 tsl/sx swampers on a 15" nissan rim and the backspacing is just about perfect, no rubbing after bfh and extend less than 2" from body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 I have no problem with the tires passing the fenders in terms of width, I am currently working on fabricating baja fenders for my hatch. I just want to make sure I have enough backspacing, that is the largest part. I looked on the summit racing page and all I could find was one pair of rims in 14x6 for $100 ea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P K Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Hold on a minute, Negative offset wheels have two disadvantages. First, they may be okay going straight, but your turning arc has dramatically increased versus stock offset - so you will be hitting fenders and probably the floorboard. You can't really trim the floorboard. Second, you wheel bearings wear faster. You should keep as near to stock offset to allow bigger tires without hitting body parts. Stock late model Nissan and Mazda have 14x5.5 and 14x6 steel wheels... and I think even Ford Rangers. Good luck, r/ PK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 I have no clue what my offset is. All i know is they will look BADASS when everything is said and done. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 Hold on a minute,Negative offset wheels have two disadvantages. First, they may be okay going straight, but your turning arc has dramatically increased versus stock offset - so you will be hitting fenders and probably the floorboard. You can't really trim the floorboard. Second, you wheel bearings wear faster. You should keep as near to stock offset to allow bigger tires without hitting body parts. Stock late model Nissan and Mazda have 14x5.5 and 14x6 steel wheels... and I think even Ford Rangers. Good luck, r/ PK. Any idea what the stock offset is? I don't really know what I am looking for here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 I have no clue what my offset is. All i know is they will look BADASS when everything is said and done. -Brian Do you know what wheels you have? I couldn't find any "cheap" wheels on Summit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 steel wheels not aluminum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 I have a set of 14x6" 6 (5.5" or 139.7mm) lug wheels off a Nissan. Might be different because I am in Australia. But I would think they would of shipped these wheels to the US as well. Heres a pic. They make it so my 27" kumho's sit inside the guards (unlike the ever popular "Speed - Desert Rats" we get here in Aus) But with the Nissan rims my kumho's rub, with the More offset speedy's they didn't (bit weird...?) I am pretty sure the Nissan 14" wheels were an 'option' on their two wheel drive "utes" (or as you might say, pickups.) Again, not sure what type of Nissans you have over their. Differently go with Steelies, Alloy's scare me when it comes to offroading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 The wheels i have are stock Chevy Luv rims. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 What is the best way to drill holes where they need to be if you don't have a drill press? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 I wouldn't reccomend "hand drilling" hubs or wheels... I haven't had mine done yet but I know if you drill them and anything is off, they will be out of balance, and not too safe.:-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 I have a set of 14x6" 6 (5.5" or 139.7mm) lug wheels off a Nissan. Might be different because I am in Australia. But I would think they would of shipped these wheels to the US as well. Heres a pic. They make it so my 27" kumho's sit inside the guards (unlike the ever popular "Speed - Desert Rats" we get here in Aus) But with the Nissan rims my kumho's rub, with the More offset speedy's they didn't (bit weird...?) I am pretty sure the Nissan 14" wheels were an 'option' on their two wheel drive "utes" (or as you might say, pickups.) Again, not sure what type of Nissans you have over their. Differently go with Steelies, Alloy's scare me when it comes to offroading! What was your main point? What were you getting at with the Nissan versus the Desert Rats ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 What was your main point? What were you getting at with the Nissan versus the Desert Rats ? Someone said earlier that more offset courses more rubbing, I was just saying in my case it doesn't... So it's not an "always" thing. Also I was trying to say, the nissan 14"s are quite nice, if you can find a set you'll be happy. Also, with the drilling... I done my front hubs with a drill press but by the time I went to do my rears I needed to fix the press (it's old...) So I used a hand/power drill. If you use a hole punch to mark your holes, then a 5mm drill bit will go in pretty much where you marked it. Then I used the 14mm drill bit and opened out the holes. Whacked the studs in and it works. Maybe not as tough as the original 4 lug setup, but if you make sure you do up the original 2 studs first, then use the others just to hold it on better, it hasn't coursed a problem with out of balence for me yet. But I wouldn't use a hand drill again... I'd make sure I do it with a drill press next time. (maybe for the rear disc brakes I want) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Someone said earlier that more offset courses more rubbing, I was just saying in my case it doesn't... So it's not an "always" thing. Also I was trying to say, the nissan 14"s are quite nice, if you can find a set you'll be happy. Also, with the drilling... I done my front hubs with a drill press but by the time I went to do my rears I needed to fix the press (it's old...) So I used a hand/power drill. If you use a hole punch to mark your holes, then a 5mm drill bit will go in pretty much where you marked it. Then I used the 14mm drill bit and opened out the holes. Whacked the studs in and it works. Maybe not as tough as the original 4 lug setup, but if you make sure you do up the original 2 studs first, then use the others just to hold it on better, it hasn't coursed a problem with out of balence for me yet. But I wouldn't use a hand drill again... I'd make sure I do it with a drill press next time. (maybe for the rear disc brakes I want) I have a fab shop with the equipment I need to drill them, that's no prob. What do you mean by "doing up" the original two studs first??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 I drilled mine by hand, and no balance issues at all. Didn't even have the tires balanced after I drilled them. The drilled holes are close to the axis of revolution compared to the size of the tire/wheel combo as a whole. At extremely high speeds (100+) it might be an issue but for most of us that is not a problem. I've had mine to probably 85 or 90, with no problems. As far as offset, Nissan and Toyota will give you a similar-to-stock offset, while chevy rims will stick out quite a bit, and require more beating and rubbing. I run the Chevy rims as I like the wider offset - it improves the handling on road without the sway bars (better articulation off road), and throws more mud off-road being they are not covered with fenders. And they look nicer IMO. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 ...What do you mean by "doing up" the original two studs first??? I believe he meant that when you mount the wheel on the studs and tighten up the lug nuts that you do the originals first. BTW, in many (most?) US States it is illegal to run tires that have some of their tread width completed unshielded by fender/flaps. If you run tires that project outside of your fender wells then you risk a ticket. It is hazardous for those around you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 one thing ive found is that if you drill within the ballpark of where it is and tighten the two orginal holes (if your drilling the rims) then really tighten the nuts for the holes you just made it will leave a dented area so you know exactly where to go.then you can sneak on a milling machine and ovel the holes just slightly.Then with mill still lined up countersink the holes.and they will fit great.although it is alot less work if you get the holes right on the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayn3ver Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 ej series cars are usually running a +52 offset on the stock wheels. I have no idea about first and second gens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Once again - subaru's are NOT rocket science people - you don't need milling machines, presses, counter-sink's etc. A 1/2" variable speed hand drill, and a die grinder or dremel tool will do all your wheels plus a spare in an hour or less. I've done, and been party to doing, at least 3 sets of steel rims. Not a single balance issue or problem to date. The two stock holes in the rim are sufficient to keep your drilled holes in balance. Basically if you use the two existing holes, the two you drill WILL be balanced or the wheel won't even fit. The pattern (the subaru FACTORY hub) is already balanced, so your holes will be too. Work smarter, not harder guys - and remeber this is not the space shuttle. It's OK to trust your own abilities to line things up and center a drill bit - the holes are too close to the axis of revolution to cause any real imabalance in the assembled system. Be smart - use a center punch, mark where the center of the hole should be, punch it so the drill bit doesn't wander, drill with a smaller pilot bit first, measure again to make sure it's centered and drill the final hole. Bevel the edge a little with a die grinder..... and use a little cutting oil (or even motor oil - just go slow) to keep the bit sharp. Just trying to illustrate that anyone can do this - you don't need to pay a machinist, and you definately don't need a whole mess of tools for it.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 I am having a Fab instructor drill my hubs because I trust him and all of the tools in the shop I work in are junk. Why complain and make things difficult when he is doing them for free? I also haven't heard any info back on getting 14x6 rims for cheap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Did you even search? It took me WEEKS to find my rims. I have a thread up on this very same forum... its prolly on page 2 or 3 by now, i suggest you read it and it should help you. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Here... since im so helpful: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59657 If you want cheap 14" rims, look for steels from a Datsun pickup, Dodge D50, CHevy Luv, Mitsubishi Mighty max. Those all came factory with 6 lug 14" rims. Not sure which models came with 14x6 or what offset. That kinda info you'll need to find yourself. Search google for other forums. There's a pretty indepth Chevy Luv forum that I used to score my rims off of. I also found a Datsun p/u forum but didnt stay long. Im sure all those guys have the answers you need. Good Luck, -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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