nebmaster Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 My 96 legacy 2.2L with 190k developed a weird stalling problem when I was headed home from work last night. The car would for no apparent reason sputter out, and then immediately regain power, or die. I got home okay (interesting experience on the Houston freeways...) but when I drove the car again this morning, the problem had not gone away. When it happens, both the ABS and the AT Temp lights flash until the engine picks back up or dies, and I noticed this morning that I can hear a relay clicking whenever the problem occurs, leading me to believe it could be a bad relay. Beyond that, I really have no idea how to begin tackling this problem, so help is greatly appreciated...thanks in advance everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 forgot to mention, the car has so far started back up again with no problem after it stalls, if this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 could be a number of things, but typically if multiple lights start flashing like that i look first at the battery, alternator and associated connections. battery connections must be tight. any corrossion on the terminals is a sign the batter may have a small leak and needs replaced. corroded terminals or the ability to grab them with your hand and turn them while on the battery post means they are not tight enough and may need replacing (after awhile they just loose their ability to crimp on the post properly). i've probably replaced half of the batter connectors on cars over 15 years old. you're not there yet, but at 10 it isn't unreasonable. the connections at the alternator should be checked too. places like autozone and advance have a car with testing equipment they can wheel to your vehicle and test the battery and charging system for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 This crossed my mind, but the voltmeter on the cap on my audio system has always read higher than 13.5 volts with the engine on, and 12.6 on just the battery. It's hard to glance back there when I stall, but the battery and all of the terminals on the battery and alternator have been replaced recently with high performance parts, leading me to believe that the problem is further down the electrical system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishy Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Correct me if I'm wrong (and I know someone will ) but shouldn't you see over 14v in a car charging system while it's running? throw a multimeter on the battery terminals with the car running (careful of moving parts) to see what the score is independant of your stereo system wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 Shows between 14.1 and 14.4, depending on what is on at the time (did this earlier because I realized that the voltage on the capacitor was the voltage of the capacitor, and not the actual electrical system, which are related, but not the same...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 Just test drove the car again after work, since it was night and there was little traffic. It appears that the engine stalling is the only electrical system affected. The headlights, A/C blower, and everything else just keep right on going. It's as if I had just turned the key off. I tried jiggling the key around while cruising to see if it may be a worn ignition switch, but this does not recreate the problem. The coil pack is an oem new replacement, only about a year and a half old. Other than that, I'm at a loss...I kinda want to suspect the fuel pump relay or the ignition relay (because of the clicking noise as the car dies...) but I'm not really sure how to test these (or even where they are located...but the click seems to be coming from behind the dash...) Help would be appreciated if anyone has any ideas. Hopefully I won't have to crater and go to a mechanic. Thanks in advance guys (and gals) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilroy Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Is your ECU throwing any codes? A problem like this would usually cause a code error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 nope, no codes. I have a scantool, so I checked just to be sure, even though the mil has stayed off. It just dies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Damn there is a bunch of these. Its the ignitor, it can drive you madd. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 Okay...I ordered the ignitor and will see if that is the problem...will keep posted. Thanks for the replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 nope, not the ignitor. Installed part ten minutes ago, and as I was pulling out of the driveway, the car stalled. Back to square one, roughly $140 poorer. Anyone have any other thoughts on what it might be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 i hate problems like this. Did you check the cam and crank position sensors. Use an analog meter and have a freind crank the engine. Put the meter on the lowest setting, Disconnect the sensors and check for a minimal needle movement. You need to do this when the car stalls. Also you need to check for spark when the car stalls. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Interesting...Went outside to move car off the street after last stalling incident and the car has no power to any circuit that is not wired external of the car's stock electrical system. Battery reads 12.8v, no crank, and I can't even get the transmission interlock out. What could cause power to the car to die intermittently like this? Perhaps this is happening just momentarily when the car sputters or stalls, and then correcting itself...what should I test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 your giving me a headache. Try jumpstarting the car. you can have 12 volts and no amps in the battery. i'm going to kick myself if this is a charging system probelm. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Okay, just got back from front yard. Jumpstarting at first did nothing, but about five seconds after I disconnected the jump starter, I noticed the headlights had come on (Key 2nd click) Got in car and it started no problem, however several seconds later, the motor died and all of the electronics went. Did this again, and after cranking for 10~15 seconds (with no results) the car suddenly started again, ran for a minute, and then died... This is the weirdest problem I have yet encountered with my car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Okay, just got back from front yard. Jumpstarting at first did nothing, but about five seconds after I disconnected the jump starter, I noticed the headlights had come on (Key 2nd click) Got in car and it started no problem, however several seconds later, the motor died and all of the electronics went. Did this again, and after cranking for 10~15 seconds (with no results) the car suddenly started again, ran for a minute, and then died... This is the weirdest problem I have yet encountered with my car... what happens when you leave the jumper cables on this si sounding like a stone dead battery nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 This time jump starter had no effect....the car remained dead. I'm gonna run the battery by autozone to have it tested anyway in a few min...and I'll tell you the verdict. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kylejs Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Sounds like the same problem I had with my Olds...I am slightly embarassed to say I never checked the battery. The alternator was a suspect for me, because I had 2 amped 12" sub woofers with no capacitor and it had already eaten one alternator alive. Never checked the battery though... One the diagnostic I pulled no codes too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 The battery tested fine...it's not the problem. Put it back in the car, still no power to anything that is not directly connected to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 check to make sure you have power to the ignition switch (under the steering column) Get the wiring digram and make sure you have continuity in all the iginion swictch positions. After this check the starter for a short or an open. Check the battery cables also. Battery cables do age and can go bad nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy63 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 forgot to mention, the car has so far started back up again with no problem after it stalls, if this helps It could be a fuel pumprelay getting bad or fuel filter i would replace the fuel filter first especially if you like most of us run our tanks down low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 It could be a fuel pumprelay getting bad or fuel filter i would replace the fuel filter first especially if you like most of us run our tanks down low. i miss the days when cars sputtered to a stop when they had a fuel issue. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Battery and alternator cables are new, replaced with nice ones about six months ago. The continuity chech on the ignition switch went good, ditto for any obvious opens/shorts on the starter. I suspected the fuel pump relay first myself, but I don't see how it could cause the whole car to loose power like this...Fuel filter was also changed recently as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Also checked fuses/fusible link. Nothing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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