Pulling Driveshaft

[mikeshoup]

The $200 wagon needs a driveshaft. One of the U-Joints is broken, and makes a ringing sound.

 

What tools do I need to pull the driveshaft? Going junkin' tomorrow after work and don't want to have any missing tools when I get there. Also, what's the procedure for doing it? I know where it goes into the rear diff is just four bolts, but what about the front?

 

Thanks a bunch guys!

[jeffast]

you need 2 10mm wrenches pb blaster and a 17mm to pull the drive shaft it's held in by 2 17mm bolts on the yoke the one end will slide right out of the transmission be careful not to let the end that goes to the transmission hit the concrete i reccomend setting it down carfully and wrapping it in a towel the end on the diff comes right out and takes 2 10mm wrenchs and allot of pb blaster to get off. whew

any questions?

edit no problem

just remember to get the winsheild fixed:rolleyes:

[Uberoo]

Im thinking of welding the diff.What the procedure for pulling one of the rear halfshafts?

[scrap487]

Im thinking of welding the diff.What the procedure for pulling one of the rear halfshafts?

 

2 cotter pins you have to pull, one in each end, I believe the right size punch is 3/16 but double check form another source cause I dont remember, I use a special screwdriver thats perfect for it... might need some help from a bfh to break the rear axles loose from the splines, since they dont usually go bad they will be really old and corroded together. You may need to jack up the car at the diff to relieve the suspension a little bit so you have room to get the axle off... make sure you use jackstands if you work underneath your rig.

[jeffast]

take a punch of appropriat diamater knock the roll pins out of the cv's on the diff end. then i like to undo the drive shaft and the bolts that hold the diff up there are two in back that are 14mm i believe then one above the differential that should be 19 if i remember correctly. after this beware the diff will fall but it will allow you enough movement in each direction to easily get the cv off and in the quite likly event that one side sticks i find kicking the diff with both feet dislodges it quite easily with out denting a case the way a hammer does

any questions?

edit: this is assuming you have the car on stands

second edit: use pb blaster liberally on anything that looks rusty or has dirt on it good luck

[NorthWet]

Having disconnected several driveshafts recently...

 

The diff end uses 12mm wrenches, and the driveshaft side is semi-"captive": the bolt head can't turn due to interference with the u-joint yoke. All of my nut/bolts have broken loose fairly easily. I don't know what the center bearing carrier needs to unbolt it from the body, but I would guess a 17mm socket. Tranny yoke is a slip fit into back of tranny. The JY tranny will be drained of fluid, but yours is likely to leak when you pul out the yoke, so be prepared.

 

 

Some driveshafts have bolts at both ends of the rear shaft, others can't be easily removed from the carrier/front shaft.

[nipper]

The $200 wagon needs a driveshaft. One of the U-Joints is broken, and makes a ringing sound.

 

What tools do I need to pull the driveshaft? Going junkin' tomorrow after work and don't want to have any missing tools when I get there. Also, what's the procedure for doing it? I know where it goes into the rear diff is just four bolts, but what about the front?

 

Thanks a bunch guys!

 

take the carrier bearing too if there is one.

 

nipper

[idosubaru]

all the bolts between the shaft halves and the rear diff are 12 mm bolts. you'll need a good quality wrench for one side (not enough room for a socket) and a socket for the other side. or two wrenches.

 

2 17mm bolts hold the carrier bearing in place.

 

if i you have a small propane torch you can take along i'd have that handy too. those 12 mm bolts tend to strip very easily as they get seized/rusted and don't want to come off. very annoying.

 

might want to have some axles pin punches and a 17 mm wrench along with 21 mm (or is it 22mm )for the top diff bolt. or just undo the bottom 4 17mm (or 14mm??) bolts that hold the diff to the bushing bracket. this way you can drop the diff if those 12mm bolts are causing troubles.

 

you won't be able to access all 4 bolts around the circumference of the shaft either...usually can get 1, 2 or 3 at once and have to rotate to get the rest.

 

hopefully the donor car is already up so you can just rotate the wheel/hub by hand to turn the shaft. if you won't be able to turn the shaft the job gets really annoying and you might have to drop the entire driveline...rear end included (which isn't that hard...it's only 3 or 6 bolts depending how you want to do it).