Time to part with Outback?

[CPAScott]

OK guys, seeking some advice here about whether its time to part with my 1998 Outback.

 

I bought the car in mid-February of this year for $4,500 with 83,000 miles on it. It was a fairly good deal at the time as the car's value per sites like KBB.com was above $6,000.

 

Of course, the price was reflective that the car was not 100%. It needed rear brakes and rotors, and was leaking a minor amount of oil from the valve cover, and needed a new oil pan.

 

Since I purchased the car, I replaced the rear brakes and rotors and front brakes (but not rotors) myself, and had the exhaust midpipe replaced at Speen Street Auto in Natick, MA (upon advice from this board). Speen Street has performed all of my oil changes and monitors the oil leaks in the engine. So far, they do not recommend doing any work to the car yet, however, they did identify an additional leak from a part whose name I can think of right now -- that stupid little plastic piece between the engine and tranny.

 

Other issues, however, are cropping up, and I'm wondering whether I should ditch the car now. Partly driving my thought process is I would much rather have a newer model anyway (and preferably an L.L. Bean edition), but wasn't in the position to buy one in February. Even now, I'd still look for a used Outback at a good price, as I am rather debt-adverse and do not have the cash to buy a $20K+ car (I wouldn't dare touch the $33K price tag of a new Outback).

 

Here's the current status of the car:

 

93,000 miles

 

1. ENGINE - The car is, of course still leaking oil from the three places I've mentioned. It's not severe enough to warrant immediate repairs, but I don't really like having to constantly monitor the oil level, smell the burning oil after getting out of the car, etc. How much longer before these repairs need to be done (that includes the head gasket)? Anyone's guess.

 

2. BRAKES - When replacing the front brakes, I noticed that the one of the two pistons on the driver's side caliper was not moving in sych with the other pistion, causing very uneven brake wear. The caliper likely needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Additionally, although I did not replace the front rotors, they are scored and need to be turned or replaced.

 

3. WHEELS - The wheels on this car are severly oxidized and, unbeknownst to be at the time of purchase, this has caused the seal with the tires to not be tight, allowing air to slowly leak. So, in addition to checking the oil regularly, I must also check and top off the air in all four tires. Speaking of tires, after driving this car 10,000 miles since purchasing it, I need new ones.

 

4. CLUTCH - the clutch does not need to be replaced -- yet. How much longer before it will? Like the oil issues, anyone's guess. The mechanic has noticed a little bit of noise in the clutch, but nothing to be worried about -- yet.

 

5. The "Check Engine" light has recently come on. I do not yet know the cause.

 

To be honest, I am not a true DIYer, although some things (like brakes) I can handle. I'd also rather not fuss with constant auto repairs. But, I'm frugual, so I look for the best economic answer.

 

Via a friend of mine in the car business, I can get a new set of wheels for pretty low money (about $250). Another option might yield wheels and tires for the same price.

 

I also know a guy through a friend who's pretty handy with these cars (he works in the parts department at a Subie dealer, but is mechanically inclined and can repair these cars). He's offered to pull the engine from the car and completely reseal it for essentially the cost of parts. Of course I will pay him something for his time and trouble. Resealing the engine would include replacing all gaskets (including those currently leaking and the head gasket), and ensuring that all other parts are doing OK. He figures its easier to do the work if we take the whole engine out of the car.

 

While the engine is out, repairs, if necessary, to the clutch, could also be done easily.

 

We haven't discussed the calipers.

 

I'm having a hard time getting him to commit to a date, though, so although he's willing, he's hard to pin down.

 

Anyway ...

 

I'm wondering if it's all worth it ... the time, the money, the hassle. To repeat:

 

Valve cover gaskets

Oil pan

Head gasket

Plastic piece between engine and tranny (whatever it's called)

Clutch (maybe)

Rebuild caliper

Replace front rotors

New wheels

New tires

 

That leaves the car still with other small annoyances (stupid little things like the sunglass holder being broken).

 

What will the total cost be to do this work? At this point, I can't say. $1K? $2K? Somewhere in there, I suppose.

 

If I sold the car, what could I buy? Hard to know right now as I haven't looked much. Interest rates are expensive (8% for a person-to-person sale) and a consideration. I'd love to wait a bit longer, maybe even next spring, but I don't want to drive a clunker either.

 

What do you think?

[nipper]

I see nothing wrong with this car aside from low mileage

1-replace the seals with the timing belt (and waterpump) when you do this is up to you. The interval is 105,000 miles. Whnever you do it it will be good for another 100,000 miles

2-This can happen to any car at any time.

3-I think the wheels can be fixed, but usually a can of stop leak will correct this situation.

4-Depends upon the how the car is driven. It can be 60,000 miles it can be in excess of 140,000 miles.

5-Have an autzone pull the code for free before any more movement on this issue.

 

 

why replace a HG on a car that doesnt need one, thats foolish.

Valve cover gskets are probably just lose bolts.

Dont rebuild the caliper replace it, its easier.

 

Low mileage cars will ned work, sometimes more wirk then high mileage cars since they arent driven as much.

Fix the car and keep it. Intrest rates are going up, and then there is that new car insurance thing.

 

nipper

[Suzam]

If you are positive you want to sell it you should consider repairing it and keep proof of the parts. It will increase the value and the new buyer would be much happier.

 

I've thought about getting rid of a couple of cars in my life because of minor leaks and other issues, but after correcting the things that were bothering me about the car, I was actually happier after the repairs and kept the car a lot longer that I though I wanted to. You'd be amazed how much more you enjoy the car if you don't smell that oil or constantly have to worry about tire pressure etc.

 

I would recommend replacing the wheels with newer Subaru 16 inch wheels from ebay and a nice set of quiet, smooth riding tires. If that's not the way you want to go, have the tire place polish the inner rim and lip before mounting the new tires, our MY98 had the same slow leaks and that cured it.

 

On a side note, the stop leak stuff can wreck a tire and the gummy stuff is hard to remove from the wheels if it stcks on them. It can also cause them to become unbalanced. I'd only use it as a last resort in an emergency.

[nipper]

see ive never had a problem with stop leak, as long as you use it the right way, Put the stuff in the tire and drive the car for a couple of miles to evenly spread it out.

 

I think if you fix the ar youll end up keeping it, so fix it and keep it

 

 

nipper

[Strakes]

And...a car that is paid for drives much nicer than the one with payments!

[Suzam]

Nipper,

 

You're probably correct on the proper usage of sealant, although I'd question if a leak around the rim would be sealed by it. I would expect it to work better in the tread and lower sidwall area with escaping air than a slow pressure loss by the wheel.

 

Since CPAScott said he need tires, I'd try to fix the problem when new tires are installed and not use the sealant on more than 1 tire at his time.:-\