darthsoob Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Hi all, went to replace all the shifter bushings, etc on my 87 Brat, 4 spd, dual range, and when I finally got near the end, of course, I noticed I didn't have a replacement piece. The one missing was a white nylon sleeve, about 1" tall, that sat down in the socket joint of the tranny that held the bottom of the shifter lever. Guess it acted as a spacer for the shifter. Went to two dealers and it doesn't even show up in their books, at least not on the shifter page. I did happen to see something that MIGHT be what I'm looking for on the page that showed the transmission extension for the 4wd models but I was hoping to get feedback from any of you that may have run accross this. By chance does anyone know what the part number is or where to find it? Second, the U fork that is roll-pinned to the transmission shifter rod, should that have a spacer or bushing of some kind? Mine seems to be a bit sloppy. Or is this an intended thing? Thanks to anyone who can help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I think I know what you are talking about - I ran into the same deal on my ?wagon? (I think - might have been the Brat) when I went to fix the shifting linkage on it. I had the transmission out of the car when I did it, and IIRC (it's been a loooong time) I got the nylon "clip" for the bottom of the shifter, but the hole in the trans was way bigger..... I didn't really want to go to the dealer so I just looked around my pile of junk, and found the protective plastic cover that went to the bottom of the 32/36 Weber DGV carb I bought (brand new redline kit). The plastic "feet" on it were the perfect size to fit into the hole in the tranny, and then the nylon clip just slid right inside of it (the plastic feet are hollow if you cut them off the thing). I doubt this will help you in any way, but I figured I would explain what I did.... might give you an idea . GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthsoob Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 GD, Did find out that I have in fact identified the part. Bad news is on the Subaruparts.com it lists as no longer available. "Good" news, the cheapest is $30. Got any more of those sleeves? Thanks for the input! I knew I could count on the board! Darth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Yikes - no longer availible huh? Well I'll take a look at my pile, but chances are it's been tossed out - that was a couple years ago now. Hhhhmmm - maybe a bit of plastic hose from the Home Cheapo.... I would take that bushing to the Cheapo and look around - I always love doing that anyway - find the weirdest stuff that way IIRC, I had to wrap the little guy in electrical tape to get a tight fit into the tranny hole. It's still like that, and been many, many miles. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthsoob Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 Actually I was planning on going through the plumbing department this weekend to see if I could find something similar. So far the shifter is working well enough but I thought I still might try to find some sort of void filler and I also read on the board last night how to tighten up the bracket. Hit the gold mine....well almost! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 I whiped up this diagram a while back for my idea on how to fix the shifter slop in a way that will never, ever come loose again. I've tried bolting, cutting a slot in the shifter and bolting, drilling and bolting with a larger bolt, etc, etc. This will be my next attempt if I don't just go to a 5 speed in all my rigs GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthsoob Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 GD, Did you already try this shifter fix? <http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mi...hifterFix.html> I a hoping not because I was going to try it after I found all the parts for the bushing repairs. I would hate to find out it didn't do any good. Maybe I'll have to see if it's possible to order a new shifter. I wonder if it's possible to find some sort of sleeve to fit between the two. Maybe use a drill press to reem out the shifter so that a sleeve could be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 LOL - that's a picture of MY transmission. I gave Mick permission to use it and he whited out the background. Overall, it works for a while, but then so did the original. Not a proper fix in my opinion. The method I detailed above should be a vast improvement. Here's the original (he modified it to show a few other mods): GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthsoob Posted July 8, 2006 Author Share Posted July 8, 2006 Well now I'm bummed. I was hoping to do that fix and I find out from the author or the text no less it wears out. Don't you think the set screw thing will wear out as well? Wonder how much a new shifter is? By the way, went to Lowes and got sections of tubing at various diameters. When the rest of my parts come in, I should be able to make one of them work. Spent about a buck versus the $30 Subaru wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 I didn't write that - McBrat did - he just used my picture (with my permission). I don't think the set screw method will wear out - it has positive contact with the shifting rod. The bolt method relies on the bolt being extremely tight, and trying to increase the friction between the shifter sleeve, and the transmission shift rod. Set screw will literally lock them together much like welding them. Welding would be the ultimate fix, but would be near impossible to undo if you ever wanted to take it apart again. The cross-section veiw that I drew only shows two set screws, but I would reccomend four or possibly six - two on each side, and either one on top and one on the bottom, or two on the bottom. This will give it 5 or 6 points for the set screw to "bite" into the metal of the shift rod and prevent it from moving even a little. The downfall to all the other methods is they increase the friction, but do not provide a way to keep the parts from moving and eventually wearing to the point where the friction needs to be increased yet again. All the parts are still smooth and slide against each other easily with the amount of force you can apply with a lever as long as the shifter is. Also - Mick failed to mention that when I did that bolt trick in the picture I didn't just use the stock size (12mm) bolt - I reamed it out to 3/8" and used a stainless steel grade 8 with lock washers and flat washers under that. Now mind you - the reason he didn't mention that, is that you HAVE to pull the transmisson to do this much extensive drilling - under the car it's near impossible.... maybe if you have a lift. Buying a new shifter is not the fix - in fact it's not even the shifter that is the problem - it's the shift rod inside the transmission - the hole for the roll pins (or bolts if you replace them) wears into an oval shape. This part requires partial dissasembly of the transmission to replace. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 Oh yeah - and while you are down there - check out my latest mod! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60992 GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthsoob Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 OK, still bummed but at least now I know better. I'll probably junk the idea of fixing the slop in the shifter, at least for now. I almost wonder if drilling out the trans shifter rod and inserting a stainless steel drilled plug would do any good. Just an idea. Kudos on the tranny mount! Of course now I'll be spooked to look at my trans and discover its mounts have pancaked as well. By the way, what did the yard charge you for the 82 mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 I think it was $6 for the whole EA82 cross-member. I wasn't sure exactly what I would do - but I knew I needed to do something. I got the whole cross-member in case I decided to use it somehow. As it happens, it's WAY not the right shape or size for the job. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthsoob Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Well another life lesson learned. Maybe a board member in the area can use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Yeah - I have EA82's too tho (my daily is an 86 sedan, and my woman has an 87 coupe). So it will claim a spot on my shelf of goodies for now. I have a 5 speed swap in store for the coupe in the next few weeks - it may come in handy. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 ok, after trying the drill a bigger hole and bolt method, and then the cut a slot in the tube method, slop came back after a couple of days. so i got the shts, fitted a new selector shaft seal and welded the thing solid to the selector shaft. solid as a rock now, and you can still remove the shift lever if need be. only prob is going to be if i have to remove the rear housing of the box, but with the box out cutting the welds off will be easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 That's already been discussed, and as stated we DO NOT want to weld it. I would rather improve on the design, learn something in the process, and have it easily reversible than ghetto weld the thing together. It's the principle of the thing - weld it if you like, but I'll not be having ghetto tractor mechanic garbage on my ride GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 jeez, you must have a pretty clean brat (or wagon), good luck with the set screw method, that aint guna work. the tube isnt thick enough to tap a thread into mate, spose you could weld some nuts onto the tube for a thread but i guess that might be a little too "ghetto" for you. i didnt know they had TIGs in the ghetto... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Actually - that's exactly what I was planning - but I'll probably use small cut sections of solid steel rod (or small diamter tubing if I can find some I like), and mount them to the side of the shifter - then drill and tap those. Nut's would work too, but I can better control the design with rod. Rather than set screws I may just use bolts, and counter sink some holes into the shift rod to run the bolts into. At any rate, I'll be able to dissasemble if however I do it. Here in the US, Brat's are not a common thing - you have the luxury of 5 extra years of production, and all the parts availibility that comes with it. Of course I may never get around to doing anything about it - 5 speeds are common as dirt here now, so I'll most likely just drop one in. The linkage is far superior. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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