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Rustbullet????


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Ive decided on getting this stuff called rust bullet to put in the tub of my hatch interior and the wheel wells, bottom of the doors and bottom of the body. It says 1 qt will do 50 sq ft for $37. The quart is 24 for 25 sq. ft. Should I go with a quart and a pint for the area I need to cover? Anyone ever use this stuff or hear of it?

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I have used Rust-Bullet extensively in restoring my EA81 hatchback and I also use it as a finish for my EJ-EA adapter plates. I've been meaning to do a write-up on it, so I'm gonna take the oportunity to talk everyone's ear off about it.

 

It is ABSOLUTELY as good as POR15. I use both products, they are equally effective, they simply have different uses and application requirements. Here are some examples:

 

POR15 must be applied to bare or rusty metal, while Rust-Bullet can be applied over old paint that has been adequately scuffed up.

 

POR15 requires you to spray the surface down with a nuetralizing agent and then rinse with water. This is the biggest downfall of POR15 in my opinion, as it is a lot of extra work and then you must wait until the metal is completely bone dry to paint it (not good for car bodies and floors with lots of nooks and crannies for water to stand in and never dry).

 

Finally, once the metal has two good coats of POR15, you must topcoat with two more coats of a special POR15 "topcoat" as the normal POR15 is not UV resistant.

 

After all that, forget about painting over the POR15 as it basically dries to a hard, smooth ceramic-like finish that is almost impossible to scuff sand.

 

So I use POR15 on stuff like frames and suspension components and Rust-Bullet on floors and body-parts as it goes on easy and takes a topcoat of any kind of paint you want (hit it with a topcoat within 24 hrs, or you'll need to scuff sand).

 

Also, I like to use POR15 "POR-Patch" filler which comes in squeeze tubes to seal small holes and fill gaps in tack-welded patch panels, I then paint over the whole surface with Rust-Bullet.

 

Here is an example of the process:

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So now that that issue is out of the way, on to the specific Rust-Bullet tips:

 

Buy a gallon of acetone and keep it handy. This is the only thing that will remove it before it cures.

 

Always use disposable latex gloves, because washing your hands with acetone is no fun.

 

Buy 3 for a dollar paintbrushes from the dollar store and throw them away after one use (one coat). It's not worth the effort or acetone to clean them.

 

Always put a quantity of Rust-Bullet into a seperate container to dip your brush in. Dipping your brush into the can will contaminate and ruin the product.

 

Use a scoop of some sort to scoop the Paint out of the can so you don't get any paint on the lip of the can. If this is too much of a PITA for you, pour out of the can and clean the lip with paper towels. This is so the can won't seal itself when the paint on the lip dries.

 

When sealing the can, put down a peice of plastic wrap before the lid and put a rubber band around that. then hammer on the lid and put another peice of plastic over that with another rubber band. This stuff is expensive and will dry and be ruined if you don't.

 

Always stir the product for at least 60 seconds, never shake the can.

 

As far as quantities go, I hate to tell ya but you'll need a lot more to do your whole vehicle, at least 3-4 quarts to do what you want to do. I buy it 4 quarts at a time as there is a slight discount and shipping is the same for 1 quart or 4. I think of it as an investment, and it's always been a good one.

 

That's all I can think of for the moment... there's a lot of advice I could give on the rest of the rust-repair process, but I'm a little out of breath for the moment... :)

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