Cougar Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 couldn't i use my meter to see if it has power to the plug(not the compressor side). wouldn't that tell me the same thing. if it's getting power then the clutch is bad. You certainly can do that. I suspect though you are not getting power to the compressor for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 You certainly can do that. I suspect though you are not getting power to the compressor for some reason. if there is no pressure in the system the compressor wont get power nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 Hi Nipper, I'm not sure what you mean when you say switches can give you a false reading. If a switch is bad and it supposed to be closed you will see a voltage drop across it. Unless of course something else in the circuit is open when it shouldn't be. Some tests need to be done when the system is live, so taking a voltage check is easy to do. Hope you feel better soon. you use the ohm meter to check the switch. Unplug the switch and see if you get an open or a short (open = no pressure short = pressure). If you test the switch while its plugged in and power is going to it, the meter MAY show it as a closed switch if you go across the terminals. Now if you go from terminla to ground one side should be hot, the other not (for no pressure). Depends how you use the meter. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 As nipper has said, it's a good idea to check the low-pressure switch with an ohmmeter for continuity (engine off). If low/no refrigerant is sensed by that switch, the compressor clutch isn't allowed to be powered. Here's a previous thread that discussed the situation on a '99 Forester: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59414 See one of my posts in that thread (#7) in particular. Also, these may help to locate and understand some things: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ACTheory.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ACMechanism.pdf Pamike, please note that none of the above is specific to a '90 Legacy (which I assume is the car with the problem), but it should give you an idea of how to check for a possible cause of the compressor not running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 15, 2006 Author Share Posted July 15, 2006 their are 4 wires in that plug on the drier. i used my ohm meter and checked all 4 wires in all the combinations i could and the meter said out of limits for all of them. how would the ac shop find the leaks. would they fill it first then check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 their are 4 wires in that plug on the drier. i used my ohm meter and checked all 4 wires in all the combinations i could and the meter said out of limits for all of them. how would the ac shop find the leaks. would they fill it first then check. they do it a few ways. The #1 way is the fill the system with some gas, and use an electronic device called a sniffer to rind the leak. Another is a sumple bubble test, since 90% of all leaks are at the o rings. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 their are 4 wires in that plug on the drier. i used my ohm meter and checked all 4 wires in all the combinations i could and the meter said out of limits for all of them. The 4-wire plug connects to two pressure switch sections. Two of the pins are for fan speed control, the other two for protection against low (and likely also excessive) pressure. The fan speed contacts would normally be open with the system off, accounting for lack of continuity between one pair of pins. Since you found no continuity between any of the four pins, it's very likely that low refrigerant is indeed the culprit causing the remaining switch section to be open when it normally shouldn't be. how would the ac shop find the leaks. would they fill it first then check. As nipper said, they'd usually add some refrigerant (about 8 ounces) and sniff for a leak, or check with a soap solution. Some shops add a leak-detection dye, but that often isn't the best approach. If your system is fully discharged, the shop may put it under vacuum before charging it; they can then see if it holds vacuum, and if not determine roughly how bad the leak is by noting the time it takes for the vacuum to be lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 For a quick test you could jumper the switch contacts to see if things worked then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 For a quick test you could jumper the switch contacts to see if things worked then. If that's done, it should be for a very short time (literally, a few seconds). However, you'd also have to know which connector pins correspond to which pressure-switch section. If you didn't have the manual, that could be determined with voltmeter and ohmmeter readings (finding the hot and ground leads, and deducing the remaining two), but it's quite likely now that the system needs leak detection and charging. The chance that the pressure switch is open because it's defective is fairly minimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 what's the average cost of refilling the system. i called a few local places and they wanted well over $100 to do it. thats just to refill not to fix the problem if their is one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 19, 2006 Author Share Posted July 19, 2006 i connected 2 wires to the battery and then to the plug, and the clutch turned on. so i'm betting my problem is low or no refrigerant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 20, 2006 Author Share Posted July 20, 2006 i talked to a guy about refilling it. he said that the evaperator under the dash leaking is a common problem with these cars and it would be expencive to fix. i gotta take it up to him to check out tomorrow. i am hoping that it's just somthing simple leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 A cheap easy repair would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 i talked to a guy about refilling it. he said that the evaperator under the dash leaking is a common problem with these cars and it would be expencive to fix. i gotta take it up to him to check out tomorrow. i am hoping that it's just somthing simple leaking. You may want another opinion, as that is the first ive heard of this nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 i've never heard of that being a common problem. i'm going to him because he is charging me $29 to check and recharge it. everybody else i called wanted $100 or more. if he can find the problem and it's something expensive i will have to wait a while to fix it. i gotta call him in the morning to see if he can get me in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 ok, i found out the condencer had a very large leak. it sounded like something punched a hole in it. i called a.r.kinleys and they wanted $75 for one. i went to the local junk yard and got one for $40 and it still had pressure in the system so i know it wasn't leaking. the garage filled it and it blows cold but the compressor is now making a noise. so i'm going back to the junk yard tomorrow to pull the compressor from the same car. then i gotta take it back to him monday to refill again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 ok, i found out the condencer had a very large leak. it sounded like something punched a hole in it. i called a.r.kinleys and they wanted $75 for one. i went to the local junk yard and got one for $40 and it still had pressure in the system so i know it wasn't leaking. the garage filled it and it blows cold but the compressor is now making a noise. so i'm going back to the junk yard tomorrow to pull the compressor from the same car. then i gotta take it back to him monday to refill again. define noise? Have you tried a new fan belt first? nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 21, 2006 Author Share Posted July 21, 2006 it's not a belt noise. it's kind of a knocking noise. he said since their was nothing in it and it hasn't been used in a long time it's going to eventually lock up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 it's not a belt noise. it's kind of a knocking noise. he said since their was nothing in it and it hasn't been used in a long time it's going to eventually lock up. ok thats reasonable. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 it's not a belt noise. it's kind of a knocking noise. he said since their was nothing in it and it hasn't been used in a long time it's going to eventually lock up.Since the system was exposed to atmosphere for some time, did the shop pull sufficient vacuum before filling it? For the same reason, what condition is the drier in? If the drier has to be replaced, a new one is probably the best way to go. You may have to add some refrigerant oil as well to replace any that was in the old drier. By the way, are you sure that the refrigerant is the original type, and not a substitute? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 i just noticed on my other 90 legacy that their is a small leak on the reciever/drier on one of the lines. it has to be a small one because it still blows cold. what would it cost to fix the leak. i got another compressor today. he did say something about putting new oil in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 New oil, all compressors that have sat for awhile need the oil replaced he should have done that the first time around?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 New oil, all compressors that have sat for awhile need the oil replaced he should have done that the first time around?? Maybe -- older systems with R12 (as opposed to R134a) use a mineral-based oil that isn't nearly as hygroscopic as ester/PAG in more recent systems. If the system hasn't been converted, the oil may not be as big a concern. Even so, it wouldn't hurt to change the oil, as long as the proper total amount is used. I would still be concerned with a large hole in the original condenser that the drier desiccant could be moisture-saturated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamike Posted July 23, 2006 Author Share Posted July 23, 2006 does anyone know how much oil to put in the compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Here is a link to some interesting reading on this subject. http://www.technicalchemical.com/pdf-files/LubricantGuide3.pdf More info. http://www.aircondition.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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