TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 They would cost more than our rigs, and if you made the CV's stronger we'd be breaking diff stubs and other more expensive stuff. Do you have a supplier, or a machinist who can do this type of work? Have you looked into it? Stuff like this isnt cheap. While your at it, get us some lower gears cut for our tranny's. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 You can make them stronger, but you'll have to make the diff stubs solid, and then you'll start breaking u-joints in the driveline, and work your way up to blowing gears out of the transmission. The axles are "fuses" - they break when the stresses in the system are too great. It would be MUCH more usefull if you machined bolt flange style axles and joints so they can be changed easily when they break. I've broken axles in H1 hummers - they are the same way. You will not be able to make them unbreakable. Speed breaks axles, and without lower gearing people will continue to demolish them. If you really want to be usefull, and you have the computer CNC machines to make axles, cut us lower gear sets instead. Lower first gear to a crawler gear, lower the low range gear, and turn the remaining 4 gears into a 4 speed ratio set for street travel. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 ...It would be MUCH more usefull if you machined bolt flange style axles and joints so they can be changed easily when they break. ... You mean like Datsun used? Like the ones bolted to the R160 on 510s and the R180 on 2x0Zs? Or am I misinterpreting "bolt flange style"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Yes - like the Datsun style, but prefereably beefier. Like a 6 bolt would be nice. That's what the H1's have, and it makes the axles a piece of cake to change. Jack it up - 12 bolts out - axle in - 12 bolts again - done. It doesn't have the problems that the spline fit does with rust, and it doesn't need partial dissasembly of the suspension to get them out. And of course no need to remove the wheel and all the braking system from the front like a subaru. Very superior design from an off-road standpoint. A flange style on both ends that would mate to an axle running Porsch 930 CV joints, and a slip yoke like a Z car axle would be the ultimate subaru axle setup - the 930 CV's can approach 45 degrees, and are good for over 30" of travel. I've done the research, it's just the investment of time and money that I lack. It would really not be all that hard to implement given the right tools and the ability to do some aluminium casting and milling. I would really like to move the brakes inboard (and go to a larger GM setup), and build some chain driven portal hubs for another 1.5:1 reduction at each wheel. That would give a stock crawl of around 40:1 with no transfer case, and would remove almost all of the associates stress from the axles and transmission. All your stress would be on the chain drive portals, and chain is both very strong, and extremely efficient. You could have a dual stick setup so 2WD Low range would be availible for street driving.... A setup such as this would easily have 24" under the front and rear running on say a 33" tire. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new92loyale Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 There is no need to remove the brakes at all to replace the axles. I talked to a good mechanic friend of mine before I changed the axles on my 92 loyale. All you do is knock the pin out on the top end. Then remove the size 14mm bolt on the botton of the lower suspension arm (it runs paralel with the car). Pry the lower arm down until it is free. Then just knock the axle out with a descent sized hammer (free the top side of the axle before the beating, of course). Install basically in the reverse, just hit the center of the hub, not too much in the same spot, and don't get to crazy with it. When you have enoungh threads just suck it the rest of the way through by tightening the nut. The first side took me two hour and three phone calls to my buddy. Once I figured it out the second side took me 20 minutes. And there was no removing the brakes. Just the one suspension bolt. I'm no expert and this was my first set of axles, but it was much easier than the way the Hanes manual described the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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