jis2sexxxy Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 Car make: Subaru XT Turbo Eingine: EA82T Asperation: MPFI Problems: 1. Vehical Dogs when excellerating, will cruise at any speed with no problem, Idles fine. 2. Turbo indicator light on dash comes on at way to early, (2000rpms, 2nd gear 35MPH excellerating to 40 MPH) 3. When turbo indicator light comes on, vehical really dogs then will slowly while and jumpingly(is that a word) excellerate. 4. With all 4 injector unplugged car still idles?????? so far, have..... a. new Engine. b. new turbo. c. new plugs, wires, cap-n-rotor d. new distributor e. new exhaust (both cats) f. new injectors Been reading alot of post latley trying to still fix my Sub. the throttle body and intake manifold were the only parts transfered from old Engine that was having the same problem that started after bringing the car back from the dealership where they changed a coolant hose under the turbo. adjusted the TPS to specs from post I read here car runs a little better but still dogs just not as much. there are 2 adjustment screws on the throttle body but all manuals I have read say there are no adustments for the throttle body????? unless someone has them, is there something else I should adjust. error codes I get are all over the place, they seem to change everytime I read them. is there any suggestions short of buy a new car(I already did, but love my suby) that can help, I would love to hear them. I really need Help here bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 My usual suggestion is spark plugs and wires, but you seem to have gotten that. So... How about the connector to the CTS (coolant thermo sensor)? Contacts get corroded, old, flakey. Or, what is your timing set at, and was it set w/ green connectors connected and are they disconnected now? EGO ("O2") sensor? This is a stretch, as it kind of sounds like things run OK while in closed-loop mode, and then fall flat when you go to open-loop while on boost. BTW, 2k rpm is not too early for the turbo light to come on. The light signifies that you have gone slightly positive (1-2psi, maybe) on manifold pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted July 16, 2006 Share Posted July 16, 2006 Check your fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum line off and check for signs of gas, there shouldn't be any at all. Also, go to Auto Zone and rent a fuel pressure tester. I don't have the factory specs in front of me right now, but I'm sure somebody will be able to post them for you. If the pressure is below spec, check the fuel pump, replace the filter, and check the fuel lines for kinks or damage. If the pressure is above spec, replace the regulator, make sure the vacuum line is attached at both ends, and check the return line for kinks or damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jis2sexxxy Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 Now this my sound strange coming from the guy who replaced his engine and did all of the above, but where is the fule pressure regulator located on this car. on the engine or on the fuel tank? I have no illistrations just a manual that tells how to replace it,.. typical remove power, disconnect, put in new one and connect power. does not say where it is. The timing is kinda set I guess, it will not stay stable, it fluctuates, it was set to +20 BTDC but it moves or dips to +10 and above 20. Idle seems to change when it does this. Thank you all for the help, I will recheck all your suggestions. Oh and does anyone have a vacuum line diagram with direction of flow on it? I have a few (I guess you would call them) check valves and not sure if I put them in with flow in the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 The fuel pressure regulator should be on the intake manifold and is attached between supply "rail" and fuel return line. That year is your XT? 85-86 (and maybe early 87???) used different engine management then 87+, including horw the distributor/ignition control works. Does your timing "wander" when the green connectors are connected, or just when yo are in normal runing mode? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jis2sexxxy Posted July 23, 2006 Author Share Posted July 23, 2006 I think I found it, Under the throttle body, looks like a tube with 3 hoses coming out of it? its kinda hard to get to isn't it? It is an Early 87, manufacture date is october 86. it Wanders worst when Green connector is connected.. Wanders little when not connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Sounds like a bad MAF to me.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 86...does it have a flapper style or hot wire style air flow sensor (the MAF GD speaks of in the last post)? if it's the hot wire type, one way to check is to look inside of it and there are three very very fine wires, you can only see them if you remove the sensor and look in the right kind of light inside of it. any broken wire will cause problems. they can fail in other ways as well though, so best bet is to swap in a good one. i'd say we need to start with what kind of codes you're getting. what do you mean by "all over the place". reset the codes and tell us what you get after that. do you know how to read the codes, maybe that's confusing you? i've seen others count the blinks incorrectly, not hard to do particularly if you do'nt have the books. when you swapped motors...did you just swap the long block or an entire engine block...sounds like you swapped an entire engine block except the throttle body? so you swapped the entire intake manifold? if you swapped wiring harness or sensors at all you need to make sure they are compatible as the XT Turbo changed significantly from 86 to 87. i'm having problems getting my Turbo running well after a swap and it's due to wiring changes that i still haven't nailed down just yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 I can't remember an easy way to tell the early flapper-MAF from the later hot-wire MAF, but you should be able to tell what system you have by the distributor. If the distributor has a vacuum advance diaphram on the outside then it is the older flapper MAF system (I am not very familiar with the older system); The hotwire MAF system uses an all electronic distributor that has no advance mechanisms. If you have the later hotwire MAF system, the ECU controls the ignition timing, and with the green connectors connected the ignition timing should be rock solid. If it wanders, then you have issues... like maybe the disty bushings are shot, or the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) in the disty has a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 If your disty has a vac advance, you need to disconnect the vacuum line, and the connector on the passengar side, near the strut tower, for the knock control unit. Just follow the wire harness coming off of the disty back to where there's an 8 pin plug. That's where it goes into the knock control unit. There's also a two wire plug on the same harness that goes into the knock sensor, that doesn't matter as long as you disconnect the knock control unit. That should keep the disty from wandering while checking timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 To tell the two styles of MAF apart, just look at the housing- If it's just a round can that the air flows through, with a rectangular box on top, it's a hot wire. If it's on top of the air cleaner assembly, and has a pie slice shaped part on top, it's a flap style. Usually, though, a bad MAF will just make it run rich, or not run at all. The timing will go to base because the computer is in limp home mode. With the wandering timing, I have to wonder if the ECU is grounded and powered properly, as well as the condition of the timing belts and distributor. Have you taken the cap off and checked the rotor for free play? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 I noticed when I had a *bad* MAF in my SPFI, it would hold at any RPM, but would bog under any sort of acceration.... just something I noticed while doing my SPFI conversion. Similar symptoms to yours This MAF I had was actually bad - the engine would run and idle ok but a little slow (wouldn't run at all without it connected). Just would not rev. Once you got it up there it would stay at that RPM. Weird I know, and maybe not applicable because of his being a turbo but the concept of the MAF is the same regardless so the ECU should be handling it in a similar way.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jis2sexxxy Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 MAF is hotwire. can't see any broken wires. Grounding the ECU makes sense with the following kinda. Codes all over the place means 23- Air Flow Meter or circuit 31- Throttle sensor or circuit 32- o2 sensor or circuit 44- Wastegate duty solenoid then drive the care around after reset and you get 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models) and so on, just get different codes, usually the same groups though. The distibutor is New along with the cap and rotor. Replaced the engine, swapped the intake and all wiring haresses for use with my ECU. Is there a way to test the MAF or adjust it maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 I think the problem is that ugly spoiler you mounted to your car. Remove it and the car will forgive you and act right. -Brian p.s. only pokin fun, dont take it too seriously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jis2sexxxy Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 ok, after a new battery, the TPS adjustments, and double checkinghte timing(off by 5), I took her out for a spin, it starts with no problem, idles great, even drives great at low speeds, took her out on the highway today acceleration is better and the turbo indicator light comes on alot later than it did, she could act a bit better but I think there is still some timing issues, with the green connectors connected, I cannot get the car to idle smooth below about 900 RPM maybe a little lower, but she pulsates between about 800 and close to stalling and some times she stalls so I cannot get the timing just right. Can anyone suggest what could be making the car not idle smooth below that point? I need her to idle at 700 RPM's steady to set the idle.... please help and thank you for all the help so far..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now