Uberoo Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 I have a Weber 32/36.I have two problems:The bolt for the throttle cable somehow got crossthreaded.If I try to take it off,one side of the nut unscrews while the other side tightens.How do I remove it without messing up the threads on the shaft?The second problem is the secondary fuel jet is not delivering fuel.I can get both barrels to open up and dang the motor sounds mean,but there is a horribible flat spot.No upper mid to high rpm power.How can I fix that?Carb is junkyard.I cleaned out the float chamber but didnt know what I was doing otherwise.please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 As far as making your carb work better I would take it apart and clean it some more.Clean the emulsion tubes and maybe replace the accelerator pump.There is a good breakdown of a weber on the usrm.That should guide you along very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 There is alot of good info out there on this carb. Im having the same problem as you. Search google. -Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 You'll just keep having weird problems unless you rebuild it properly, and check your jet sizes. Mostly the main and secondary jets, and air bleeds. You need to completely tear it down, and adjust the choke interlock to spec, adjust the float level to spec, as well as replace all the gaskets - especially the accelerator pump diaphram, and possibly the power valve (although they usually are good, and do not come with the normal rebuild kit). It's not a complex carb - probably half as complex as the Hitachi. Trying to pinpoint the exact problem on a dirty carb from the junk yard and *only* fix that is an excersize in futility. You may have two or more problems all exhibiting similar symtoms. Fixing an obvious problem and having no detectible decrease of the symtoms is maddening - just do it right and buy the $35 rebuild kit. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 This trick doesn't always work, but I've had some success with it. Get a prying tool behind the bell-crank for the throttle cable, be it a screwdriver, prybar, jack handle, hammer claw, ect., ect., ect.... Apply a small amount of force to the area that needs some help, and slowly turn nut off. Keep a watchfull eye on what the nut is doing, and go lightly with the force at first. May take a couple of tries to get it to turn off straight, may take a bit more force. If it looks like it still wants to come off crooked, tighten it back up, and try it again, maybe with a bit more force. Just be patient in doing this, that is the key to it all. Sometimes though, you're fighting a loosing battle from the get go.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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