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front wheel bearings


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Autozone carries Timken bearings for like $11 each (need two on each side + seals). Heck of a lot cheaper than Napa, and a good brand name in bearings. I don't buy a lot there, but they do carry a few decent parts.

 

Seems like I have to shop around town to get the brands I want at the price I like....

 

GD

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Does anyone know the original part number stamped on the bearing?

Or have an exakt measurement.

Can I use SKF 2rs sealed bearings?

I am going to part out a rusty turbo coupe tonight for other parts.

A friend of mine had it sitting in the parking lot and wanted to send it to the scrapyard.

I have also found two brand new front shocks by another of my friends for free

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I've thought about using sealed bearings for the extra protection, but I don't know if the grease in them can handle the high temperatures. I am running the regular wheel bearings in my Hatch, packed with high-temp Moly/Graphite grease. Six months, still holding up, and I am not nice to this car.

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sometimes is life easy!:grin:

The problem with front wheel bearing is solved.

The previous owner had changed driveshafts but not torqed the castlenuts at all.

I could turn the nut by fingers when I removed the cotter pin on the left side.

Hopefully is the bearing not harmed by not being torqed right.

 

 

The car who was suposed to become donor car was maybe in better shape then my car.

It was a glx coupe missing its engine.

It now has a new home in my garage waiting for more time and an engine.

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...The previous owner had changed driveshafts but not torqed the castlenuts at all.

I could turn the nut by fingers when I removed the cotter pin on the left side...

Sometimes, the castlenut is torqued, but the washers were not installed correctly or insufficient torque was applied (should be 140ft-lbs, can't remember newton-meters) and everything loosens up. Please recheck the castlenut in a week or two.
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