Uberoo Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 I installed the motor I got from superbrat.it smoked alittle nothing serious considering that it had sat for a long time.today I start it.it ran fine then I reved it up,an enormus blue/brown smoke cloud poured from the exhaust.Now the oil pressure is zero or not enough to regester on the EA81 gauge.It runs fine,drives ok(no loss of power).Any idea as to what went south? it irritates me becuase I spent a day installing a bad or soon to be bad motor...grrr. Im going to put a can of restore in the oil,maybe might do something...I have the restore just sitting around anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 It could be stuff left over from the old engine. Are you sure you routed the PVC lines correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 23, 2006 Author Share Posted July 23, 2006 the vents on the valve covers?dont even have hoses right now because I dont have my airbox on right now.how would I have zero pressure in the oil because of that?Or the thick clouds of smoke from the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 "Correlation does not mean Causation." May be no direct connection between the smoke and the oil pressure gauge READING. However, I would check to see if the revving dislodged the oil pressure sender wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Oil smoking (out the tailpipe - not CV grease on your cat ) in a subaru is *almost* always caused by one of two things (blue smoke indicating oil consumption in the cylinders, not white indicating HG failure, or leaking manifold gaskets): 1. Bad PCV systems - clogged usually. This causes the crankcase pressure and manifold vacuum to suck oil into the intake from the valve covers. Usually will NOT dissapate as engine warms - often will get worse, and you'll get a puff of smoke each time you accelerate hard. 2. Bad valve stem seals. Allowing oil to get by the valves into the cylinder. Usually shows itself by a big cloud of smoke ONLY when you rev it hard, and usually will dissapate somewhat after being run and warming up. Both are relatively easy to fix - the first being only a 10 to 20 minute fix. The valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the heads - just get an air adaptor to pressureize the cylinder, remove the valve spring, install new seals, and button it all up. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 tell me more about the pvc system being bad.what else is there besides the two 1" hoses from the heads and the center hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 How long has it been running and blowing this blue smoke? Sometimes you get oil leaking into places and can take 5mins to burn out. Esp when left alone for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 oil pressure gauges may not be accurate. verify the sending unit, wiring, etc. you put oil in it right? did an oil change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 I put 4 qts of $2.49 a qt oil.Im replacing the sending unit as I may have bnroken it(accidental swung unto radiator support when installed engine)I''' see if that gives me oil pressure.I cleaned all of the pcv system,the valve now clicks when I shake it and the hoses if I run water through them do alot more than trickle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 I cleaned out the pcv system and changed the oil pressure sender to one that I knew worked(and wasnt smashed to sh&*).um,now it wont idle at anything less than 2.5K and above.I still have no presure reading on the gauge.the smoke on the other hand has not changed.its still there.tommarow I will check the plugs.and I found something scary.I have no movement in the collant system.I tried filling the coolant system.it only filled the radiator.I squezed the hoses and they felt like they were empty,even when running.upper and lower.what could be causing that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 well if a crapload of water disappeared thats not a good sign.. but i will let the sages tell you more about that, because i still have some questions myself about how a headgasket blows. I was wishing i had the knowledge and time to do a nice, friendly write-up on different ways these cars blow headgaskets, symptoms, sometimes its oil being burnt, sometimes water being burnt, sometimes water and oil are switching places, sometimes you just lose compression, sometimes its multiple or all of the above.. so what happens differently in each case? a write-up like that in the USRM would save some posts, probably... but of course, its easy for me to say someone else should do a write up., i guess..:-\ but i still say someone oughta do it, any voolunteers? :brow: anyhow, when you fill up the motor with water, once you get the radiator full you need to let the water level trickle down a bit and burp the hose, repeatedly, until its full.. and then what i like to do is leave the rad cap off and start the car, let it get up to temp and slowly add more water until it fills up. I frequently have to fill it to the brim, let it slowly trickle down a bit, then burp a good bit of air out about three or four times while its warm (beyond ALL i can do with engine cold and thermostat shut) before it is really "full" but if you can do a compression test and a leak down check, it would be advisable. to me you seem to be describing a headgasket, but as i said, the sages are more knowledgeable than I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Check to see if you are getting any voltage to the oil pressure sender. If you don't have any check for a broken wire to the gauge. If the engine is warmed up and you don't have any coolant flow then the thermostat may be stuck closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elroy Jetson Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 If you've got no water circulation and motor set out a while. Could be the water passages have some critters, nest, debris. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 ...If the engine is warmed up and you don't have any coolant flow then the thermostat may be stuck closed. If you do not have coolant flow (because of stuck thermostat, blockage, bad/ineffective waterpump), then the engine can rapidly overheat, causing the oil to dramatically thin. Oil pressure plummets, oil vapors increase, oil slips past oil control rings and gets burned. This scenario would take several minutes at idle, but very rapidly under load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 27, 2006 Author Share Posted July 27, 2006 I removed the T stat it was faulty.After burping the lines with the engin e running and adding water,coolant started circulating.I figured out the gauge went south or something because no strange noises from the motor.So I drove around town for a while and the smoke went away.is the oil pressure gauge that important? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Not at All... But you can put there an Aftermarket one, I don´t know exactly which one, but I heard those sometimes are more Accurate. The purpose of the Oil Pressure Gauge is just to Monitor the oil pressure at All Times, and to check if it Drops to make somethin´ about, like change Oil, or the Pump itself, etc... it depens on the Situation, but just to Monitor the Oil Presure. For me it is very important as I have problems in the Past with my EA82 Loyale, the Tick Song rises along with the lowering Oil pump pressure, but that is another noisy kind of boxer engine, where Oil Pressure is more Critical. Well... I think that all the situation you got with your engine, are some sort of "Normal" due to the time it was sat. So, I only Suggest you to Change the Thermostat, The PCV Valve, and All the Fluids, includind the new Oil, with 20W50 Oil, due to the Fact that engine was sat too Long, and harmful deposits on the oil pan (Carter) now are in "Suspense" in the new oil, so I Strongly suggest to Drive to car to make the oil warm (Not To Hot) and then change the Oil, along with the Filter. Believe me: Is Good Idea... I have changed engines a Lot, and for Long Sat Engines is good Idea to Not Drive ´em too much with the first oil they get when restarted. Also I suggest to Change Thermostat and PCV... but maybe PCV needs just Cleaning. Please: As Long as you can Post some Pics Here! It will be Cool. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 To see if the oil pressure gauge is ok you may be able to ground the sensor lead breifly and see if the gauge changes. If it does then it would seem the sensor just needs to be replaced. I wouldn't want to run my engine without a working gauge but you can do so if you want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 28, 2006 Author Share Posted July 28, 2006 how do I ground the sensor and see the gauge?Better yet how do I ground it period?theres only one wire. today everything went bad.the motor after coming to a stop,shut off.it wasnt even really warm.it wouldnt start.all it would do was crank one or two strained attempts.My dad had to two me back to my house with his cummins pickup.after a while it would run but have a very low idle (2-500 rpm) and it was grinding.in short all the signs of no oil pressure.I pulled the dipstick.it read about a qt low.the motor has only ran about a minute sense then.Hopefully it didnt do any permanent damage...Tommarow I will drain the oil and put 5 qts of 20W50 in,hopefully it will read oil pressure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Sorry to hear that. Hope things aren't too bad. By grounding the oil sensor lead I mean you remove the lead from the sensor and touch the lead to ground of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 You can test your guage by making a simple tester for couple bucks. It works for the temp guage,too: <quote> (from Mark Humble) One tool you can make to help diagnose gauge problems is to buy two resistors, one 50 ohm and one 80 ohm, 1/4 watt. Connect one lead from each resistor together and attach a 12" black wire to this connection and solder them together. Then solder a red wire to the 50 ohm resistors other lead. Solder a blue wire to the 80 ohm resistor and attach alligator clips to the ends of each wire. To keep the resistors from getting damaged, put them in a short peice of PVC pipe and fill with silicon. Now you have a gauge tester that can be used on almost anything. To use, connect the black lead to ground and the red to the temp sensor wire and turn on the ignition. The gauge should about 1/3 up the scale. (Note:The Red Wire Is For Temp Only) If no reading, repeat the test at the gauge. This is done to check the wire between the gauge and the sending unit. If still no reading, use a volt meter or test light to check for power to the gauge, if there is power, but no reading, the gauge is bad. The blue wire is used to check pressure and level doing the same as above.<end quote> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 I cleaned out the pcv system and changed the oil pressure sender to one that I knew worked(and wasnt smashed to sh&*).um,now it wont idle at anything less than 2.5K and above.I still have no presure reading on the gauge.the smoke on the other hand has not changed.its still there.tommarow I will check the plugs.and I found something scary.I have no movement in the collant system.I tried filling the coolant system.it only filled the radiator.I squezed the hoses and they felt like they were empty,even when running.upper and lower.what could be causing that? It really sounds like the headgasket wasnt installed correctly and has breached the oil and coolant passages, but my friend when he installed a new motor had it burning oil like crazy and idling high untill he drove it awhile and it all stopped and was normal. But yikes it sounds like your really having problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 28, 2006 Author Share Posted July 28, 2006 some good news and another problem.I put in 5 qts of oil and it registered pressure,must have been an air bubble or something.so far I have drained about .75 of a quart out and pressure is returning to normal (25 psi at idle rather than 70 at idle) but now theres a problem there is a loud knocking/pinging noise coming from the drivers side head area.what could that be? Um so if it didnt actaully have oil pressure and I drove around for a day how much damage did I inadvertenly do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 If you didn't have oil pressure and drove around all day - most likely the main and rod bearings are shot. The knocking may be a lot of things - valves, exhuast leaks, rod bearings, etc. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 do these cars have hydrolic lifters? If you starved the lifters they will tick like crazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 I dunno its only on that side so I can't see it being main bearings,unless one side of the engine makes more power than the other side...Anyway to check to see if the motor has hydralic lifters without pulling valve covers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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