daeron Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 there is an xt-6 out in one of my junkyards.. anyone needs a radiator?? i know it was in there. id be willing to yank it and ship it for a small fee, plus the cost of course... i think theyd charge thirty bucks for it. i mean, i dont wanna be going and sweating for nothing, but i dont need to be making a fast buck on it or anything.. just a six pack or something yanno? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Have you checked for an XT radiator recently? I did about 2 months ago, and Modine and the other major manufacturers have discontinued them. Modine and the majors have also discontinued the 2-row cores for GL/Loyale Turbos, though it sounds like RadiatorBarn still can get them. Yup I did check for one. Found one at radiatorexpress, there's a few sellers on eBay carrying them, Checker had one, Napa had one. They're still fairly easy to come by. Trouble I had was finding a two-row. Radiator express was the only one to carry one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 Update #3: Found out why the car wasn't moving good. The white spoke rims I put on were rubbing against the front calipers. So I got that fix, but now for some reason it feels like the clutch is slipping but it's an automatic. (Torque converter?) I have now experience with automatics and I don't know why it feels like it slipping. Maybe I'll put up a post and see if anyone knows why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elroy Jetson Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Don't think torque converters fail, now the "bands", that's a different story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 torque converters do fail, but when they do, they ususally make some nasty rattling noises and cause the car to just die when put into gearsince its basicly the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Update #3: Found out why the car wasn't moving good. The white spoke rims I put on were rubbing against the front calipers. So I got that fix, but now for some reason it feels like the clutch is slipping but it's an automatic. (Torque converter?) I have now experience with automatics and I don't know why it feels like it slipping. Maybe I'll put up a post and see if anyone knows why. Low or bad tranny fluid will do that. That's the first thing I'd check, if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 I changed the filter and fluid when I did the rebuild on the motor. I just went out and check the levels and the fluid read just below low. I put about 1.5 quarts in and I'll try it out as soon as I get it unburied this afternoon. Low or bad tranny fluid will do that. That's the first thing I'd check, if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Dumb question, but one that needs to be asked: You did check the ATF level with the engine running, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xoomer Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 I hear subaru at work, "AutoBone", It sure makes my day better. I do everything I can for Subaru Owners. I start at a new store on monday. As a PSM Zach M. Burien Wa 2062414560 Transpro Makes a XT Radiator for $129.99 Last I checked. And a dual core for $199.99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 NorthWet made a good point. You do know that to check ATF levels, you have the car running, warmed up, transmission in park. i found out that my best friend, who has been a mechanic for a few years now, somehow grew up not ever having been informed how to check ATF levels, and i know for a fact thats why a few of his trannies died. so people who should know better apparently DO sometimes miss this point in their education :- ) when i found out he didnt know, i laughed at him.. but thats because he deserved it. if this is your first automatic trans, then its certainly a more than forgivable mistake, yanno? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Update #4: Well forgive me, it was the ATF level. I filled it before I had even started the car and the front was up on jack stands too. It took about 2 more quirts. Now that I have it running and driving I just need to find out where my coolant is leaking from. I think it's from the backside of the passenger head. Also I think the power steering pump is leaking too. Man this thing is garbage. Oh ya, the door key is broke off in the driver's side lock and I found out the hard way that the ignition key is different than the door key. I tell ya this car is dorky. Well I'll post more updates when I get some more work done. One last thing I did get a new exhaust yesterday. 2.25" pipe all the way back to a high flow cat and muffler. Alright then good night to all. NorthWet made a good point. You do know that to check ATF levels, you have the car running, warmed up, transmission in park. i found out that my best friend, who has been a mechanic for a few years now, somehow grew up not ever having been informed how to check ATF levels, and i know for a fact thats why a few of his trannies died. so people who should know better apparently DO sometimes miss this point in their education :- ) when i found out he didnt know, i laughed at him.. but thats because he deserved it. if this is your first automatic trans, then its certainly a more than forgivable mistake, yanno? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Whats the total number of money invested so far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 about $1300 so far. Whats the total number of money invested so far? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 <font color="black"><font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">Update #4: Well forgive me, it was the ATF level. I filled it before I had even started the car and the front was up on jack stands too. It took about 2 more quirts. Now that I have it running and driving I just need to find out where my coolant is leaking from. I think it's from the backside of the passenger head. RE: ATF level - The TC could have lost fluid whlie it was off, plus some 4EATs were known to have problems with drain-back from the TCs, solved with a check valve. And as far as the coolant leak... good luck! It probably has nothing to do with the backside of the head. Just like all Subaru oil leaks find their way to the hot exhaust pipe, it seems that all coolant leaks (except waterpump) find their way to the back of the head. The two obvious culprits are that little 1/4 inch hose from top of block (under intake manifold) to t-stat housing, and/or the turbo-coolant hoses... OK, so that is 3. The turbo hose underneath (supply) is a bear to see or fix, and the outlet self-destructs from the heat unless it is OEM or silicone (I had one that literally crumbled into hundreds of pieces). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 I'll see if I can track it down this weekend. I should have my new power steering pump by then too. I'm sure I'll have problems with that too, but we'll see maybe something will go on easy with this car.:-\ RE: ATF level - The TC could have lost fluid whlie it was off, plus some 4EATs were known to have problems with drain-back from the TCs, solved with a check valve. And as far as the coolant leak... good luck! It probably has nothing to do with the backside of the head. Just like all Subaru oil leaks find their way to the hot exhaust pipe, it seems that all coolant leaks (except waterpump) find their way to the back of the head. The two obvious culprits are that little 1/4 inch hose from top of block (under intake manifold) to t-stat housing, and/or the turbo-coolant hoses... OK, so that is 3. The turbo hose underneath (supply) is a bear to see or fix, and the outlet self-destructs from the heat unless it is OEM or silicone (I had one that literally crumbled into hundreds of pieces). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 <i>Update #4: Well forgive me, it was the ATF level.</i> Yeah! I Rock!!!!!! What's the prize for getting this one right? <i> when i found out he didnt know, i laughed at him.. but thats because he deserved it.</i> Daeron. You are a bastard! I love it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 yarrr, and a pirate at that.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Is there any reason I’ve had so many problems getting the right parts for this car? I mean I’ve been to four auto part stores and one dealership, and I’ve got wrong parts from all of them. I know that the car has the correct motor in it and that everything was for the most part original to the car. I hate this car so much, but I’ve too much invested to just blow up the car now. It’s so close now and I can’t stand it anymore. If anyone can help me with some information on what I can do to get the right parts for this car please do. Thank you for reading my rant, pooparu if you are getting parts for a subaru best know what to tell them. de4alers and parts stores are incompetent when finding parts, their books and computers and cross-referencing are incompetent as well. ask here first. or, for turbo applications ask for an 88 gl-10, for non turbo ask for 90 loyale. for ea81 stuff ask for an 84 brat. otherwise you get the wrong brake pad, axle, or what not because 2 different generations overlap thge same years and dont let the parts conter tell you any different from what you tell them you are looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 ... ask here first. or, for turbo applications ask for an 88 gl-10, for non turbo ask for 90 loyale. for ea81 stuff ask for an 84 brat. otherwise you get the wrong brake pad, axle, or what not because 2 different generations overlap thge same years and dont let the parts conter tell you any different from what you tell them you are looking for Great advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Second that! Thanks Miles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 Noted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 the safe way is to walk into the parts store with the (distributor cap, PCV valve, radiator plug, insert part here) off of your car in your hand. alot of parts stores are getting alot more comprehensive with their computer systems, and i actually went in and picked out the correct disty rotor for my car via photographs on the stores computer terminal. obviously, we cant always do this.. i drove my car to the store, if it had been anything but a rotor it wouldnt have been _quite_ so easy.. but thats the foolproof way of avoiding walking into your garage with the wrong part from the store. forgive me if this is simply stating the obvious.. im depriving myself of sleep. its eight AM and im still awake?!? well i work nights, but still.. im leaving now. good luck, its always a game :- ) sorta like the lottery.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 I pulled the valves and the cracks went all the way though. It wasn't pretty. so did i, on an 87 rx with a bad rod. one gen 1 head and the other gen 2. pulles the valves and cracks to the valve guides. so what did i do? i'll tell you... port them out witrh a dremel and put them on a carb block. drove cross country and shot a documentary. no problems some 15000 mles later....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pooparu Posted August 10, 2006 Author Share Posted August 10, 2006 Wow, I can't believe that worked. You didn’t overheat at all? I still have the cracked heads; maybe I'll give that a shot if these go bad too. so did i, on an 87 rx with a bad rod. one gen 1 head and the other gen 2. pulles the valves and cracks to the valve guides. so what did i do? i'll tell you... port them out witrh a dremel and put them on a carb block. drove cross country and shot a documentary. no problems some 15000 mles later....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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