porcupine73 Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Hello, I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump on my '00 OBW 105k mi and was wondering if I should consider pulling the oil pump, replacing the o-ring, and resealing it with Permatex Ultra Grey, or, since it's not leakingnow , should I just leave well enough alone? Thanks, Louis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Leave it, the car isn't very old either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnVT Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Hello, I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump on my '00 OBW 105k mi and was wondering if I should consider pulling the oil pump, replacing the o-ring, and resealing it with Permatex Ultra Grey, or, since it's not leakingnow , should I just leave well enough alone? Thanks, Louis Since I had to take it apart again to seal the oil pump since I didn't do it the first time on my '97 OBW, I'd reseal it now while you're there... Some on this board will tell you to replace the oil pump and the water pump while the timing belt is off, since it's so hard to get there. I would change the cam and crankshaft seals and reseal the oil pump though. That's relatively easy and cheap, and you'll be under there soon again if you don't. And make sure the tensioner is ok, but I think most people agree it should last to 200K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 im not going to help as im of the reseal it group. The next seal is not going to last till 210,000 miles. Thats alot to ask. And as long as oyu are there you do the main cam oil selas and water pump. That way you dont have to stick your head in there again for another 105,000 miles. Closely inspect the tensioner. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 28, 2006 Author Share Posted July 28, 2006 Excellent, thanks for the fast info everyone! USMB rules! I have no problem pulling the oil pump and resealing it while I'm in there; I think I will give it a go I think I already have a new o-ring in my supplies. I'm assuming Permatex Ultra Grey is the sealant to use?! Question: does the water pump have to be removed to R&R the oil pump? The OE service manual shows removing the water pump, but I already installed the new water pump and don't want to remove it again if I don't have to!! :cool: Also, should I simply replace the oil pump, or just reseal it? I guess I could check the clearances. I'm not too worried about spending $$ on a new oil pump if it's worth it. I do already have new OEM timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, cam seals, crank sprocket, crank seal, cam sprockets (bent one with chain wrench removing it...just got by UPS that special Kent Moore cam tool today!!! , heater hoses, radiator hoses, thermostat, coolant conditioner, let's see what else, oh new OE power steering pump (man that was $$$ existing one is really squeaky I overtightened belt way too much). Ahh nipper, I loved your bbaaaaaaaaaddd nipper post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Excellent, thanks for the fast info everyone! USMB rules! I have no problem pulling the oil pump and resealing it while I'm in there; I think I will give it a go I think I already have a new o-ring in my supplies. I'm assuming Permatex Ultra Grey is the sealant to use?! Question: does the water pump have to be removed to R&R the oil pump? The OE service manual shows removing the water pump, but I already installed the new water pump and don't want to remove it again if I don't have to!! :cool: Also, should I simply replace the oil pump, or just reseal it? I guess I could check the clearances. I'm not too worried about spending $$ on a new oil pump if it's worth it. I do already have new OEM timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, cam seals, crank sprocket, crank seal, cam sprockets (bent one with chain wrench removing it...just got by UPS that special Kent Moore cam tool today!!! , heater hoses, radiator hoses, thermostat, coolant conditioner, let's see what else, oh new OE power steering pump (man that was $$$ existing one is really squeaky I overtightened belt way too much). Ahh nipper, I loved your bbaaaaaaaaaddd nipper post The oil pumps i generally suggest replacing at 210,000 miles. The oil pump can come out witout distrubing the waterpump. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Way to much preventative maint. Water pump, timeing belt, main seal and cam seal. If the oil pump is leaking then reseal. Thanks for playing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Actually we all speak from expierence, that the cam seals WILL leak before you need another timing belt, its almost 100% assured. ALso another popular one is the main seal, and water pump will usually go some place around 150-160, not to mention usually in winter. And there is no such thing as too much PM in an area where you have to dig into the engine. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Awesome thanks for the info. I'll R&R the oil pump tomorrow. The only thing I wasn't planning on doing is the RMS, as I'd have to yoink the engine for that, which I don't have a hoist and that'd be the most involved job I've ever done. Actually this timing belt/water pump/valve clearance/etc. work is the most involved I've ever done so far, but I think it's fun, probably only because i have another car to drive while working on this one, well oh, and that Sub's are pretty easy to work on!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Awesome thanks for the info. I'll R&R the oil pump tomorrow. The only thing I wasn't planning on doing is the RMS, as I'd have to yoink the engine for that, which I don't have a hoist and that'd be the most involved job I've ever done. Actually this timing belt/water pump/valve clearance/etc. work is the most involved I've ever done so far, but I think it's fun, probably only because i have another car to drive while working on this one, well oh, and that Sub's are pretty easy to work on!!! RMS? i would let that go, just do the front main seal, unless of course you have a leak. If you are doing the rear main, there is some sort of vent cover back there, that if it is pl;astic should be replaced with a metal one. But the rear main seal is overkill otherwise. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Yep, the oil separator plate is a must if you are yanking the engine out. If you see a leak back there, thats where its coming from. If a main seal is not leaking I would not changes it. Just my two sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merkatroid Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Also make sure the phillip screws on the inside of the pump are not loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 I did reseal the oil pump while doing a timing belt recently. But mostly because of the reports of loose screws on the pump's back cover on some engines of that vintage (1995), and a TSB about possible casting flash left in the oil return hole in the block, to the right of the crankshaft. No problem was found with either item. On newer engines, i don't see a good reason to remove the oil pump. The O-ring for the oil gallery and the sealant are the same as used between the halves of the engine block, so one wouldn't expect them to fail prematurely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Excellent, thanks for the fast info everyone! USMB rules! I have no problem pulling the oil pump and resealing it while I'm in there; I think I will give it a go I think I already have a new o-ring in my supplies. I'm assuming Permatex Ultra Grey is the sealant to use?! Question: does the water pump have to be removed to R&R the oil pump? The OE service manual shows removing the water pump, but I already installed the new water pump and don't want to remove it again if I don't have to!! :cool: Also, should I simply replace the oil pump, or just reseal it? I guess I could check the clearances. I'm not too worried about spending $$ on a new oil pump if it's worth it. I do already have new OEM timing belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, cam seals, crank sprocket, crank seal, cam sprockets (bent one with chain wrench removing it...just got by UPS that special Kent Moore cam tool today!!! , heater hoses, radiator hoses, thermostat, coolant conditioner, let's see what else, oh new OE power steering pump (man that was $$$ existing one is really squeaky I overtightened belt way too much). Ahh nipper, I loved your bbaaaaaaaaaddd nipper post You do not have to remove the water pump to remove the oil pump. you do have to remove the idlers though. the oil pump should last a good long time (perhaps the life of the engine) if you retighten the screws on teh back of the impeller backing plate at each timing belt change (also replacing the o-ring and crank seal at the same time). If you had not guessed, I am firmly in the reseal it camp. You have a good car, with an engine that should last 400,000 miles without lower end problems. Replacing the water pump, and the idlers, along with the cam and crank selas and resealing the oil pump, will make it a pretty safe bet that you will not have to do anything to the engine for the next 100K miles (well, maybe sensors on the top of the engine, but nothing inside) other than oil changes and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 Thanks for all the info guys. I removed the oil pump over the weekend. Anyway, long story short, the bad news is I bent the casing getting it out but the good news is I ordered a new oil pump that'll be here Thursday! I forget one of the rules of car work, namely to make certain that ALL of the bolts securing an assembly to the vehicle are removed BEFORE prying like a madman. Anywho, I was able to get out all the screws on the back cover (some were a little bit loose), except one, which I promptly stripped out. But my never fear screw extractor ripped it out OK. The rotors clearance actually was borderline to the service manual limit actually so I probably would've replaced the rotors anyway, which is only half the price of the whole new pump. Also thanks for the note about not having to remove the water pump. I'm going to pay more attention to the service manual because it seems to list removing things that do make the job easier/safer, but that don't HAVE to be removed to git-r-done. Like it shows removing the radiator to remove the oil pump. I just put some heavy cardboard in front to protect it. --Louis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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