98 legacy GT spark plugs

[mblotz]

so i think the time has come to replace the plugs on my 98 legacy GT 2.5 dohc. I've been putting it off for quite some time since it looks like a PITA. i know its supposed to have platinum plugs--at some astonomical value that i just really cant justify. NGK PFR5B-11 it calls for. what is a cheaper alternative for these? I'd like to stay ngk, since I run them in all my vehicles (like 10) and never have issues--like some brands. I'm planning on doing this tommorrow since i dont have a job this week (freelance) and no money coming in--ie--cheaper plugs

[mattocs]

I don't really know the EJ25, but in my EJ22 I use NGK V-grove plugs. $2 each. It takes about 10 minutes to do the plugs in my car. Its easier than an oil change.

 

They are good plugs. I replace them every year.

 

 

Good luck.

[nickb21]

I'll second the V-grooves, they seem to work well so far. I've also used the G-power's (G-something at least), which are platinum plugs, and they're good as well. The G's were less than a dollar more a piece than the V's.

 

Good luck, just be careful not to cross-thread them.

[Olnick]

And I'll third that. Just use the basic NGK copper plug and save money. There's absolutely nothing wrong with them. The only reason they recommend the fancy metal ones is because they supposedly last longer.

 

Welcome to the board, mblotz.

[mblotz]

do you know the model number for the ngk v-groove? thats what i use in most things, just put some in my toyota truck tonight.

 

thanks for the welcome, must be the first time ive posted--hmmm. been a member for a long time--i have multiple subis, or have had many, including this 98 gt wagen 5 spd, VW vanagon syncro converted to subi 2.2, 83 brat. and have had 99 obs, 88 turbo wagen, and 82 gk wagen.

[brus brother]

Keep those posts coming in. Two more posts required for a complimentary smile from moderator of your choice:). Seriously though, I recently spoke directly with NGK for a question regarding using cooler than spec plug and they couldn't have been more gracious. Give them a shout if your local auto supply dealer can't tell you.

thanks for the welcome, must be the first time ive posted--hmmm. been a member for a long time--

[NOMAD327]

I will repost a response I made at some time in the past to this question.

I used PFR5B-11 NGK which I found at advanced auto for $10, best price I found, and yes those are the original equipment plugs for the car. List on those plugs most places is $15 each and a lot of the internet sources wanted $12 or more with shipping extra. My kid who is on a budget bought Autolite APP3924 for about $4 apiece. They are double platinum and made in America. Very high quality appearance and seemed to match the NGK's for dimensions very well. The car has been running like it should on them for more than 20,000 miles, so they may be OK to use. The plugs on this engine are real difficult to change, so I bought the NGK not wanting to have to redo the job if there were any problems

 

Once you remove the windshield washer bottle and battery (can probably just slide it forward on it’s tray a bit) on the left and the air inlet tube and mass air sensor and air cleaner box on the passenger side, access is fair doing a 2.5 in an outback. I would do the front plug first on each side, as they are slightly easier to do. What makes it the most hard is that the plugs are really far down inside the wells in the heads. The rear plugs on each side are harder because the frame rails are closer in the back. My problem was that an extension was needed, but there isn’t room to get one in with the socket attached. You have to slide the socket into the hole first, then slide in and assemble the extension, and finally attach the ratchet to the end of the extension. I immediately removed the sponge rubber plug protector from my socket, the reason being it will be extremely difficult to get the socket off the end of the plug and out of the hole if the rubber is gripping the spark plug. I didn’t want it on for plug removal either, because there is a lot of trial and error with your socket set as to what gives just the right length for getting the socket stack down into the hole. As I recall, what worked best for me was to use a plug socket in the rear, and then use a ratchet with a standard socket on it to turn the hex on top of the plug socket instead of using an extension. On the front plugs, a 3" extension worked pretty well with the regular spark plug socket and a ratchet. There was at least one plug which worked slightly better with a standard deepwell socket instead of the spark plug socket, but that was not a critical must have item! I would recommend having a small hand mirror on a stick or a ladies compact to be able to glance down into the well to see what’s happening. I’ve done a few of these cars, and on each one, at one time or another, the spark plug socket became slightly jammed on some aluminum protrusions of the head that were down deep in the well. The impression is that the threads are pulling rather than the socket is cocked and dragging. If you experience this, Use the mirror to reconnoiter. If in doubt, reverse direction, and the condition should go away if it’s not the threads. This usually happens when it’s just starting to go real good to scare the heck out of you.

Going back in with new spark plugs, make sure you check the gap first, then lube the threads with an anti-seize compound. Make sure there is a washer on the plug or you will wonder later on if it was in fact there. The big trick for installation, is to have a piece of rubber hose that’s about three or four inches long and a snug fit on the top of the spark plug. Stick it down over the top of the plug and use it to guide the plug into place. Twirl the hose between your fingers and you can probably get the new plug in half to three quarters of the way which ensures the threads are started straight. It's also much quicker and easier than a socket wrench as far as it will go. Putting all the stuff back on after the plugs are in, make sure the three quarter inch hose that connects to the bottom of the intake tract after the air flow sensor is reconnected, The car will not run without the hose connected, and sometimes it slips off unseen during disassembly, and you don’t even realize it needs reconnected.

[mblotz]

is it the NGK BKR5ES-11 that i need?

[NOMAD327]

NGK PFR5B-11 is the original spec NGK double platinum which was standard in the 99 2.5 DOHC engines at least. You can use plugs which are no platinum, or plugs which are double platinum. I would avoid the single platinum plugs because our ignition system will cause two plugs to wear faster than the other two. The plugs are moderately hard to change, and I did not want to do it any sooner than necessary, so I put in the double platinum. Whatever you use, they will normally not be in stock anywhere you go, (except Subaru dealer), So when they order them for you, they will check what plugs are correct for your engine.