New to Subaru

[Guest D1Driver]

Hi all. Just purchased my first Subaru. I come from Land Rover enthusiast land, but the mileage in my Discovery is killing me.

 

I recently purchased a 98 Legacy Outback from a local seller here in Columbus for $2500 that has 141k on it. From what I hear, alot of people from all over the country wanted this thing. The body is near perfect, and it has had some new parts recently like brakes, tires, etc.

 

Here's my question....not knowing anything about the history, what should I do first? The engine sounds it is knocking ever so slightly. And there may be something up with the AWD system. The fuse was in the FWD holder under the hood.

 

Should I first be concerned with the timing belt?

 

I pulled the fuse out of the FWD holder under the hood, and it feels like there is some kind of slipping going on.

 

I was thinking of taking it to the dealer to have them check it out, but everyone knows they will tell me I need to replace everything at a very steep bill. I am capable of working on my own cars. I just need advice on something new to me.

 

Thanks for consideration in me starting a new thread. I searched, but didn't find the answers I was looking for in the other threads.

[porcupine73]

Congratulations on your purchase! Interesting note on the fuse being in the FWD holder, I never thought to check that before buying but I will now. Can you give more details on how it acts with the fuse out? Might want to see if the check engine light hasn't been removed then too :/) I see in other posts it's not uncommon for the dealer to say it needs a new transmission.

 

Not knowing the service history, some things to look into might include changing all fluids (engine oil+filter, antifreeze, ATF [change might help if you happen to have 'torque bind' and the clutches aren't completely worn out or welded], front&rear diffs gear oil, brake fluid, steering fluid, timing belt and idlers, water pump, cam seals, oil pump o-ring and crank seal, and the usual suspects spark plugs, wires, air filter, etc.

[OB99W]

[...]I recently purchased a 98 Legacy Outback from a local seller here in Columbus for $2500 that has 141k on it.[...]

 

Here's my question....not knowing anything about the history, what should I do first? The engine sounds it is knocking ever so slightly. And there may be something up with the AWD system. The fuse was in the FWD holder under the hood.

 

Should I first be concerned with the timing belt?

 

I pulled the fuse out of the FWD holder under the hood, and it feels like there is some kind of slipping going on.[...]

Welcome to the forum.

 

With 141k, and no knowledge of whether the timing belt was replaced previously, that should definitely be of concern. The 2.5l engine in a '98 Outback is of "interference" design, and a broken or even slipped belt can have disastrous consequences.

 

As for the FWD fuse issue, do a search on the forum for "torque bind"; you should find lots of info, including suggestions for dealing with problems. The trans would probably benefit from a complete fluid change (full flush).

[85-325e]

On the BMWs, the timing belt is a major issue too. My Dad's Forester is due for the belt. I think he's struggling with the cost but no matter what, he has to get it done fairly soon.

 

On the BMW E30, it's almost madatory to change the water pump, cam seals and belt tensioner at the same time you do the belt (another one of those 'while you're in there things).

 

Is it the same on the Soobs?

[Guest D1Driver]

When having the timing belt changed, does anyone have any idea on what a reasonable price is? I get prices anywhere from $500 to $1000.

 

About the torque bind(maybe), it feels a little jumpy. Especially when starting off from a stop sign. Once moving, runs smooth.

[jon38iowa]

I had my Timing belt ( '99 Forester) replaced last year. It cost about $450.00, at a Local Mechanic, this price included with new seals. I agree with preveous posts; having bought many used cars, I recomend: having the radiator and transmission flushed, all new filters and pvc, and a quality fuel system cleaner.At this age and mileage it might also be wise to replace the wires and hoses.

Good Luck.

John

[mrCharlie]

I'm a bit new to Subaru myself, so somebody correct me if I'm mistaken here, but shouldn't that vintage of the 2.5 have the head gasket replaced with the updated version? Is it recommended to be done preventatively, or only if symptoms start to show? The one in my car has been done, just curious...

 

85-325e: The waterpump on the e30/e34 is probably the low point of BMW engine design. One of them on my old 325es only went for a year after being changed before it decided to spit coolant all over the place, and parts/labor ran over $350. Not missing the 60k belt/waterpump interval, but missing the inline-6 smoothness...

[Guest D1Driver]

This thing must have torque bind. It rear seems like it is jumping in and out of gear when I turn hard and go forward.

 

How hard is this to fix? Cost estimates??? I do work on my own cars, although I am not brave enough to take on the challenge of changing the t-belt when it is a DOHC engine.

[OB99W]

As I said above, "The trans would probably benefit from a complete fluid change (full flush)." If that doesn't do the trick, the cost then depends on several factors, including who does the work. If you don't feel up to the timing belt, you may or may not want to get involved with the area of the trans rear extension housing. If someone else does the work, I'd "guesstimate" an average price of about $1,000.

[johnceggleston]

yeah the torque bind cost between 850 and 1000. the parts are expensive (new clutch pack) and there is the labor. the only way to save is to do it yourself or buy used parts, which is a huge crap shoot. regardless, the labor doesnot change.

 

the timing belt is another story. new belt, seals, and water pump, (don't forget the oil pump o-ring) run between 675 and 800 (this is high) labor included. mine was 675. i did it at 98k miles because the waterpump was leaking. it would be nice if the pump always failed before the belt. oh well.

 

it's very risky not doing the timing belt. if you don't know it was done at 105k. you are risking 700 against the 1200 to 1800 engine repair / replacement.but if it was done, you're spending 700 you don't need to.

 

i'd try to find out more info aboput the service history. did you buy from a dealer or an individual? i don't know if a belt can go 140K without breaking , but maybe.

 

do some research. good luck.

 

As I said above, "The trans would probably benefit from a complete fluid change (full flush)." If that doesn't do the trick, the cost then depends on several factors, including who does the work. If you don't feel up to the timing belt, you may or may not want to get involved with the area of the trans rear extension housing. If someone else does the work, I'd "guesstimate" an average price of about $1,000.

[ericem]

Your clutchs for the AWD system seem to be ok if with the FWD fuse in theres no problem. This means the solenoid is alright, and the clutch packs arent melted. Definitly go for a trans oil change or flush. ANd with a used car its good to change all those things listed above timing belt, seals etc, oil changes for the transmission, diffs, engine. And things should be fine.

[nipper]

Do all the tires match. Make sure all the tires are properly inflated. Put the fuse back in and get the transmission flushed. After the flushing remove the fuse and see if the torque bind goes away. You got a really good price for this car, so dont feel bad if you need to toss some money into it. At 141,000 miles i would suspect the timing belt has been changed. If the car is not leaking an oil, i would leave it be untill it can be inspected. Have someone pull off the covers and look at the belt. If there is any cracking or fraying the belt needs to be replaced.

The good news is once youdo the timing belt/cam seals/oil pump seal/main seal / tensioner and water pump, you are good for 100,000 miles.

IF you have uncurable TB, thats about 900.00, but again, thats good for the life of the car as long as the tires match, and you dont drive on a flat for a long time.

I have a 1997 outback. I bought it 185,000 last year from the original owner for 3800, and thats about 500 less then market value for NY. I had to replace the awd unit, and when timing belt gets done its time for a reseal. I love this car.

 

nipper

[Guest D1Driver]

All the tires are new, matched, and have the same pressure. I haven't driven this thing yet. Have insurance, but no plates. Have too many other things going on right now to worry about it. I keep driving my Land Rover getting 12 mpg on my daily 60 mile round trip to work.

 

It is leaking oil front and center. Looks like someone changed something around the oil pan. The cross bar that is right under the engine looks new, as well as the bolts holding it in. There are two big bolts right next to the oil filter that are "allen" style, and they are brand new as well. I am seriously thinking of taking it to the dealer and having them go over the whole thing and recommend what it needs.

 

The reason I am concidering t-belt is because it has a slight knocking sound going on. Didn't do that when I test drove it though. Not sure what is going on. It does have a check engine light on, but I haven't taken it to Autozone to have that checked yet. Vacation planning for this weekend takes precedence.

 

As far as the trans flushing, can I take that anywhere, or should it go to the dealer? Does it have to be flushed, or can I just change the fluid and filter?

 

It will be interesting seeing how this engine works. I learned more in the past 5 days than ever about Subarus. Thanks for the advice guys.

[nipper]

the odd knock without hearing it can be the tensioner. if you have leaking seals, then do the timing belt tensioner thing. Also keep in mind when soobies first start they have piston slap, which can be a noise your hearing too.

 

Anyone can flush the tranny, there is no filter, just a screen that never gets replaced.

 

CEL can be associated with the timing belt, but thats usually a flashing light. My guess is that you will get an 02 sensor code.... just a guess, i can be wrong.

 

nipper

[cookie]

If the knocking is only when cold it could be piston slap too. This is very common on modern motors and is not to be worried about if it goes away when warm.

[Guest D1Driver]

I found a mechanic here in Columbus that has a repair shop. He says he will charge me $250 for labor only to change the timing belt and anything else I want while he has it apart. He is letting me buy the parts. He has changed several of them before, and he knows it is a DOHC interference engine.

 

My questions.......what parts should I buy to have him change? Everyone seems to have a different opinion here. I definitely want it to go another 100k miles.

 

Also, who has the best prices on OEM parts?

 

I wish someone made a complete kit.

[cookie]

I think there is not a lot of disgreement but funds enter into it.

On my car I had all the seals changed, the tensioner, water pump, and the oil pump resealed.

On DOHC cars the tensioners get expensive so folks tend to change them a bit less. Water pumps are expensive but I just don't want to disturb the front of the motor for another 100,000 miles myself.