Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Loyale - poor accelaration - sluggish


Recommended Posts

I have a 1994 Loyale wagon, 4wd 5 speed with poor accelaration. It had new timimg belts (by previous owner) not long ago. The car idles and runs well enough. I've checked timing and replaced the fuel filter. It has fairly new plugs and wires, no apparent vacuum leaks. No dash lights showing errors.

It has the single throttle body injection.

 

Once you get going, it will run interstate speeds with no problems, but it is very sluggish.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks in advance - David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It should be reasonably responsive, and reach freeway speed quickly, but it isn't a powerhouse.

 

The timing belt(s) may not have been put on correctly (easy to get one tooth off on them). Also, how did you check the timing? The green connectors next to the windshield-wiper motor need to be connected, the timing set at 20degrees (unless specs say different for your year), and the green connectors then need to be disconnected.

 

Other possibilities are normal tune-up issues: Spark plugs and wires (critical in my experience), distributor cap and rotor. Some sensors can cause issues, like the EGO (O2) sensor and the coolant thermo sensor (CTS). Either can make the ECU set the mixture incorrectly. Any gas mileage issues?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply! I checked the timing using a light and connecting the green connectors as you mentioned. Since it idles smoothly and all, I did not think the timng belts were off.

 

I have had a number of Subaru's over the years and am aware of the power limitations, but this one is worse than any I've had. It barely gets out of it's own way in the first few gears. And if you hit a hill, you can forget it!

 

I suppose I could remove the covers and check that the belts are on the mark...

 

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you getting on it? I have a 92 Loyale 5spd and it does alright, not great, but alright, when I keep it up at 3 - 4K RPM range, but I feel your pain.

 

 

Did you check for a clogged cat?

 

Any good way to do this? I've had a bad cat in the past (not on a sube) and actually felt it, like the car just bog down when driving, but with the Loyale, it's kinda always like that. I suspected a bad cat at times just because that's what the feeling reminds me of. But how do you tell?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably need a new 02 sensor. Very much overlooked. They get slow with age. The rest of the fuel injection is pretty fool proof, but the 02 will exhibit the symtoms you sugest while still not setting an ECU code. The ECU can only sense when the 02 is out of range - it can't tell that the response time has decreased. Typically they only last about 50,000 miles before the degredation becomes severe enough to warrant replacement.

 

Clogged cat's are fairly rare with the FI engines. Subaru's don't typically burn enough oil to clog one unless the PCV system is clogged for an extended period of time.

 

GD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In response to the first post, we have not checked the gas mileage yet, but I drove it to work 2 days and it did seem to use more than it should (according to the gauge).

 

I should have mentioned about the catalytic converter. We had a local muffler shop do a pressure test and they said there was no apparent exhaust blockage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go with GD on this: Change the EGO (O2) sensor. Relatively cheap, very important to the FI mixture, and you will know it is OK for the next 50kmiles or so. Worth checking to make sure the CTS connector isn't all green and corroded (doesn't seem to be so much of an issue with the SPFI as with the MPFI).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wanted to post an update. As suggested I replaced the oxygen sensor and that DID help. The car performs much better. I still have some flat spots in acceleration, especially in the lower gears, but I think that's down to tune-up issues. I am going to check the vacuum advance (I assume it has one) and such.

 

Many thanks for the helpful posts. David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... I am going to check the vacuum advance (I assume it has one)...

No advance mechanism at all. The distributor just contains a crank angle sensor (slotted disk and optical emitter/detector). The ECU manages all ignition timing variance from base timing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK.. i just ran the ECU diagnostic test mode on my car and got O2 sensor code, as well as a TPS code, and I have read about people having problems with their TPS.. throttle position sensor. its a small potentiometer that is actuated by the throttle.. and if you know anything about potentiometers, you know they can get bad spots with age. its like an old stereo that has a crackling sound when you adjust the volume. I am _fairly_ certain that I have been having virtually the same issues as you are, but maybe not quite to your degree. see if you can locate the significant chunk of the 89 FSM around here and get the TPS testing procedure.. it is worth checking out.

 

Like i said, if you know anything about potentiometers (pots theyre called for short) think about it.. if there is a pot on your throttle, and that tells the ECU what your foot is doing, and its a little crummy.. it would act just like youre saying. If the O2 sensor was bad, then it would aggravate that problem.

 

if you check this out on my advice, please let me know the results. I only get time to work on my car when i make it happen, so i havent tested mine yet (OR replaced my O2 sensor. :rolleyes:) but an encouraging response from you might motivate me to get my good multimeter back from my dad and check my own. I tried grabbing one in a junkyard the other day (you have to remove the AC compressor and alternator to remove it) but the screwdriver i had was junk so i couldnt get the bottom screw loose. doh!

 

another idea would be to get a length of tubing, stick one end in your ear and fish the other end around the engine bay listening for vacuum leaks. they make proper stehoscopes for this, which are better cuz you hear more.. but two equal length pieces of tubing tied together at the end (so its coming from the same point) would work as well as you can hold the ends in your ears.

 

good luck and happy soobing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...