courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 bought a 99 legacy 2.2 with something ticking in the motor, i think ( with my limited experience ) that is sounds like a valve but the lady that sold it to me said the shop said it was a rod( but she wasn't sure) if it is a valve can i just have the top end redone on it, the motor has 106,000 , so would that be stupid? also this car is leaking oil somehwere i can smell it burning, anything that leaks oil on it that would make a ticking sound? i was also thinking of getting a new motor from ccr any other suggestions ot things to look for/check? thanks for your time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 bought a 99 legacy 2.2 with something ticking in the motor, i think ( with my limited experience ) that is sounds like a valve but the lady that sold it to me said the shop said it was a rod( but she wasn't sure) if it is a valve can i just have the top end redone on it, the motor has 106,000 , so would that be stupid? also this car is leaking oil somehwere i can smell it burning, anything that leaks oil on it that would make a ticking sound? i was also thinking of getting a new motor from ccr any other suggestions ot things to look for/check? thanks for your time My two cents < is go for the ccr! My(Used) Forester has the 2.5 , however I spent $ 400.00 + on a timing service, $150 for a fuel service, $50.00 tune up, $150.00 o2 sensor; Only to be told four months later( and after another $ 500.00 in investigation) that the engine needs to be replaced because of deep rod knock! I would rather have a tight engine ( and know the care and have records) than to risk good after bad money. To be honest a '99 ( which mine is) is an old engine( no problem for a handy mechanic){i was informed that it would cost about $ 2000.kto rebuild the heads}. With CCR or simillar you would have a strong engine with a warranty! I also recomend, if you do replace it, to: Folllow the warranty requirements to the letter (its cheap insurance), if any problems, document them and report these immediately to your vendor( know your contact people,keep written records of each), and keep all your records!! I am tired of getting the short end of the stick! Learn to play their game. Good LUCK! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 CCR engines are Great, but why do you think the old one is bad? Does the sound change when the engine warms up? If so it's most likely piston slap - keep on driving it. You can check the oil pressure if the bottom end bearings are bad, pressure will be low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 this is a reprint from 2005 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44128&highlight=wrist+pin Re: Piston slap...? If you have piston slap that goes away when the engine is warm, neither the dealer or Subaru of Canada are going to do anything for you. You may be handed the following "Shop Talk". Subaru Shop Talk No. 02-02-97 Engine noise. In 1997, Subaru engines (1.8, 2.2 and 2.5) are more fuel efficient, more powerful and have a flatter more usable torque curve than their predecessors. To achieve these seemingly opposite objectives, it was necessary to bring many improvements and modifications to the Subaru engine line up. Following are some of those improvements: 1. Mechanical valve lash adjuster (reduces friction) 2. Light weight pistons (reduces inertia) 3. Short skirt, Molybdenum coated pistons (reduces friction) 4. Increased compression ratio (improved power output) 5. Improved cylinder head design (improves cooling) 6. Inertia resonance induction system (improves breathing) The only drawback to these enhancements may be some engine noise after a cold start-up. This noise is a consequence of the engine improvements and is not a precursor to future engine problems. If a customer complains of cold engine knock, please reassure him/her that no permanent engine damage will occur. If the noise persists and is still clearly audible when the engine is warm, please consult your DASM. Please do not hesitate to contact your DASM if you should have any questions or comments. SUBARU CANADA, INC. --------------- You would have the Phase II engine, but it still pretty much applies. The general consensus on this board is that if it goes away when the engine warms up, it really won't do any harm. Other makes suffer from this as well. My ex's 99 Honda Odyssey with the 3.5L V6 engine developed piston slap as well before hitting 100k km. Oh well. Commuter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 bought a 99 legacy 2.2 with something ticking in the motor, i think ( with my limited experience ) that is sounds like a valve but the lady that sold it to me said the shop said it was a rod( but she wasn't sure) if it is a valve can i just have the top end redone on it, the motor has 106,000 , so would that be stupid? also this car is leaking oil somehwere i can smell it burning, anything that leaks oil on it that would make a ticking sound? i was also thinking of getting a new motor from ccr any other suggestions ot things to look for/check? thanks for your time 106,000 is 1/3 to 1/4 the life of this engine. Subarus have piston slap, the noise goes away as the engine warms up. This is a we love our soobies noise. Connecting rod noise, remove the spark plug wire from the cylinder and noise should change pitch, if it doesn its not a rod knock Subarus dont get main bearing issues Oil leak... easy You need cam crank and to re seal the oil pump. Might as well do a timing belt too. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 A lot of the older Subies I have heard have lifter tick. This can be clogged lifters or a defective oil pump seal. they also all tend to leak oil until they are properly serviced and resealed. If it was my car I'd get it to a very competent mechanic I trusted and see if it is anything major. If it is not then give it a complete service and fix waht is wrong. If it is major those CCR engines are great and always available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 ok the noise did not go away when i drove it the other night, the lady said it gets louder as she drives it, i thought it seemed to kind of come and go it definitely leaks oil, i can smell it burning just driving it 10 miles or less how hard is it to reseaL the oil thing? thanks for all the input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 By now most of your seals are tired. The front and sides of the engine are not too hard but if you nead a rear maine seal the engine has to come out. Best to leave that for other major work. You probably want to do a timing belt on a reseal and this whole thing is best done by someone with experience to help you. If the rest of the engine is OK doing a seal and service put the car up for 100,000 miles. On my car at around 90,000 I had all the seals replaced, timing belt, water pump, and a tensioner. A few years later I have 128,000 and it is still going strong. Those 2.2s are great motors and I would not give up on it unless I was very sure it needed replacement. Do you live near any board members who could look at it for you and give you some advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 hey cookie subrat is going to look at it for me, i may just take the plunge and get the new one, will just see what he thinks if i keep driving it and the rod comes through will ccr take it for a core or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 ok the noise did not go away when i drove it the other night, the lady said it gets louder as she drives it, i thought it seemed to kind of come and go it definitely leaks oil, i can smell it burning just driving it 10 miles or less how hard is it to reseaL the oil thing? thanks for all the input Courtney: It sounds to me like it would be wise for you to go to competent mechanic- For a thorough diagnostic, especially since you might not have all the history of this car. I would avoid the dealer on this old of a car, just from my experience. These engines do last forever if: they are maintained, and if they don't overheat; mine overheated (though the seller didin't bother to mention it) and when an all alluminum engine overheats it can and often does have major damage. Best Of Luck! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 i do wonder if this car was maintained well, the interior and exterior is mint but i got the impression this lady did not know much about cars and the oil sticker is really old, i got a really good deal on it and it will be no biggie to drop a new engine in it if needed and the tranny was done at the dealer 26000-30000 ago, i am wondering if it is still under warranty, ford warranties are 3year/36000, will have all the fluids checked good and changed if needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Try not to drive it at speed until Subrat hears it. Usually the core is ruined if a rod lets go, but cores should be easy to come by. A rod sounds so much different than a valve almost anyone competant can tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eljefe Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Do you live in Tucson?? If Subrat can't make it for any reason I could look at it. What does your Legacy look like? My neighbor had one in the yard and now it's gone, maybe it's yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 ok that is good to know, to me it sounds like a valve, a shop that does subarus a little looked at it here for the previous owner, they charged her 150 to diagnose it,nto sure how they did or what they did i haven't gotten the paperwork yet to see what they said but she thought it was a rod pick up the car and the paperwork tomorrow and am hopeflly going to see subrat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Ultimate subaru members are everwhere!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 another subaru person in tucson, yeah! the legacy is white, looks like yours in the pic where do you live? i found it up off orange grove and ina area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eljefe Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 another subaru person in tucson, yeah!the legacy is white, looks like yours in the pic where do you live? i found it up off orange grove and ina area Oh man! I'm on the other end of town. Craycroft & Golflinks area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 so you know subrat? he is on your side of town i live in marana i have been looking for legacys for a while and did not see one advertised in your area, hmmm maybe it was a 5spd and i did not call about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 If ti doesnt go away, im going to agree with connecting rod bearing (which is rare). I dont ever recall one throwing a rod, i do recal one doing nasty things to a cylinder liner due to an over heat. I bet at some time in its past life this engine was overheatedm and the oil was never changed whan it over heated. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 well Nip, since we can't hear it hopefully we'll get a report next week. Most of the time I've heard folks describe the sound as ticking it has been a valve and I sure hope that is what it is for her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Hey, Eljefe.. you should come look too. Though I am competant, I am not a professional. The more the merrier, right? I bought a 98 GT w/ 45k from emich a few years ago that had noise they gave me the typical "that's how subarus sound" speech and 12 miles later it threw a rod OUT of the block! Well.. i dunno about one with 100k+ .. but SOA gave me a new short block because of it.... When's a good time for you Courtney.. I may be spending the night in phx because I'm probably going to go get a free wagon up there.. so maybe is the evening saturday okay?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtney Posted August 19, 2006 Author Share Posted August 19, 2006 sat night works fine for me, you guys just tell me the time and i will work my sched around it, excited to meet you both! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 That definately sounds like a knock to me. From what I could tell from it just sitting here.. in park. At about 1800rpms it starts to knock and is very constant with engine speed all the way through the power band. We did not rev it beyond 5k. It was warm from her driving across town. It was entirely serviced by the dealer here, whom i loathe. There was a lot of stuff loose (not bolted down, broken timing cover bolts) on this motor. I'm afraid when the dealer did the 65k timing belt service it may have caused some problems. but no way to really prove that? It has been 40k miles since they did that. The oil was about 2 quarts over-full unless it has the wrong dipstick. the o-ring on the front-diff dip was gone. The auto tranny was replaced w/ a reman one and is looking good. Power steering was below the dip stick and probably leaking. There was pack rats living in this motor for a little while, poop, cholla cactus, and straw were left behind as evidence.. along with a nice burnt poop smell.. which was probably what she was smelling more than the PS fluid dripping down on stuff. Or maybe it was the poop soaking in the PS fluid. We could only find one small ground wire that had been chewed through. I think the PCV system is bad.. as there is a tiny amount of oil coming up the 1-3 side cam cover hose. however, I don't think a bad pcv system or knock sensor (no codes) would cause the severe knocking that is in this motor. Edit: PO took it to "Bucks Garage" to have it diagnosed with "A bad valve and a rod knock." ~$160, thank you please come again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eljefe Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 DOH!! EMICH Subaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eljefe Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 They're OK, It just depends on WHO you talk to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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