89hatch Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 Well, after numerous attempts with a scanner, I had no luck. It just kept saying No Fault Codes Detected. I guess I'll follow the directions from a thread I found from 2 years ago detailing how to get into diagnostic mode via the 2 probes tucked up under the dash under the steering column. Has anyone used a scanner and picked up a code for a trans problem? I know there's a code with the Trans Temp light flashing 16 times on every statup. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Well, after numerous attempts with a scanner, I had no luck. It just kept saying No Fault Codes Detected. I guess I'll follow the directions from a thread I found from 2 years ago detailing how to get into diagnostic mode via the 2 probes tucked up under the dash under the steering column. [...]A '95 model is right at the beginning of OBD-II, so it doesn't surprise me that trans codes aren't reported via it. As you mentioned, using a ground probe with diagnostic connector B82 should allow you to retrieve codes by reading AT temp light flashes. If you don't already have it, http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf could be useful. The bottom of page 12 through page 14 in particular should be relevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89hatch Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 Excellent article...thanks a lot!! A '95 model is right at the beginning of OBD-II, so it doesn't surprise me that trans codes aren't reported via it. As you mentioned, using a ground probe with diagnostic connector B82 should allow you to retrieve codes by reading AT temp light flashes. If you don't already have it, http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf could be useful. The bottom of page 12 through page 14 in particular should be relevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Excellent article...thanks a lot!! You're welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89hatch Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 I finally got some time to diagnose the blinking Trans Temp light this past Saturday. It turns out it's code 24, the duty C solenoid. I was wondering, but wasn't sure since torque bind is usually associated with this solenoid failure. I have none, but it looks like I have no AWD and only FWD. I read where putting it in low makes it a 50/50 split so I tried it in the rain, but still only the front wheel would spin. Hopefully, the duty C is stuck and getting a new one will fix the problem. If the clutch pack is fried, well then I guess it's used trans time. If anyone wants to diagnose their own trans error code(Trans Temp blinks 16 times on startup), I suggest this past thread. It took me less than 30 minutes to diagnose using only this thread as a resource. And the best part is it's free with no special tools needed. Maybe it should be made a sticky. I'll update once I get the new duty C. Here's the link... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19805&highlight=4EAT+%2896+Outback%29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 DUty c SOlenoid is not just TB. Its a valve thats stuck open, internally shorted or opened, or electrical failure resulting in TB. SOunds like yours is stuck open. This can be from gunk in the fluid or a mechanical failure of the valve. Another possability is that your clutches are so glazed that the dont transmit power to the rear wheels anymore. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89hatch Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 Thanks for the response. The fluid looked original. It didn't smell burnt, but was more of a brown color instead of the pinkish/red of new. When I remove the rear part of the trans to get at the duty C, will I be able to see the clutches? Are they located in the same area or where? What will they look like if they're in bad shape? I've seen a worn or glazed clutch disk(for manual trans). Will it look the same? Obviously, if I can get to them and they look shot while I have the trans apart to replace the duty C, I'd like to take care of everything all at once. Thanks DUty c SOlenoid is not just TB. Its a valve thats stuck open, internally shorted or opened, or electrical failure resulting in TB. SOunds like yours is stuck open. This can be from gunk in the fluid or a mechanical failure of the valve. Another possability is that your clutches are so glazed that the dont transmit power to the rear wheels anymore. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 EEEEEEEEEEEEEEKKKKKKKKKKKKKK looked original:confused: that is supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles. You have two choices, change it now and hope that fixes it, or take it to a shop and get prpeared for a small repair bill (just replace the solenoid), or a huge one, rebuild the AWD unit. i'ld take it to a shop and see what they say, since the fluid has to go anyway. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89hatch Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 I replaced the fluid 2 weeks ago. It drives absolutely fine, you'd never know there was a problem if it weren't for the blinking Trans Temp light and/or getting stuck in the snow a few months from now:eek: . I think I'll just replace the duty C and see what I have. At least maybe then the FWD light will come on with the fuse and my AWD will be back. I don't know which problem is worse: FWD all the time or torque bind:-\ . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 I replaced the fluid 2 weeks ago. It drives absolutely fine, you'd never know there was a problem if it weren't for the blinking Trans Temp light and/or getting stuck in the snow a few months from now:eek: . I think I'll just replace the duty C and see what I have. At least maybe then the FWD light will come on with the fuse and my AWD will be back. I don't know which problem is worse: FWD all the time or torque bind:-\ . Thanks Torque bind..an 800-1000 dollar repair good luck nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89hatch Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 I'll be replacing the duty C with a new one this weekend. I'll be taking pictures, but if anyone wants any specific pics or voltage readings, let me know with detail exactly what you want. I'll update with results hopefully next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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