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advise on turbo sets on ea81 1800cc motor.


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From what I have seen, all EA82 blocks are the same with the exception of the rear PCV vent between the MPFI/TURBO and the carbs/SPFwhich dont have them.

 

As for forged internal...I have not heard of any. The only real difference bwtween a MPFI turbo engine and a non turbo MPFI motor is...injectors, pistons, and a few small things on the outside.

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hmm if that is all that is different i wonder why so many people say its not worth turboing a n/a when there is no real difference. so all the cranks are casted then? and what about the rods. thanks wjm

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I do not know of any differences in cranks and rod on EA82s or others....

 

Under the right setup, care and everything, turbos are much better than N/A. Its just alot of trouble turbo'in a nT car. Most people are not that adverture'ous. Some of us are. I for one, would do it...only if I had a donor turbocar to work with tho.

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hey wjm are there any forged stock cranks that will fit in the ea81? also are there a tougher rod that will slip in. or will is it going to be an aftermarket part? i figure that the pistons i want are going to have to be made. thanks

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You can get pistons from JE.

 

I dont think that there will be any kind of crank avalible...except stock. You might could have some place balance it, or do something to make it stronger and lighter...but i seriously doubt that there is anything more avalible over stock for the EA series engines. Rods....you might could find something...but Ive never looked.

 

I've left the bottom end alone on all of my engines.

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well i like to go over the whole engine and see what is avaible. some one just emailed me saying that ea81 and ea82 cranks are forged. and so are the rods. he is a guy at a proformance shop. so i think im just going to go to my local subaru dealer and talk to a service manager and see what he has to say about all this.

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I've never had a crank have any problems with it. The rods on the other hand are another story, I've had rods break, and in big ways too. They've broken up at the wrist pin, then they decide they don't want to be couped up in the cylinder any more, very bad, specially at like 50, around 4K rpms.

When I built my last motor, I took a set of rods, shot peened them, and balanced them, that motor saw RPMS in excess of 9K all the time without any problems. I also had the stock pistons balanced as well as the crank it's self. The crank was pretty much balanced, the shop didn't have to do a whole lot, just grind and drill a tiny bit off it.

Forged pistons would definatly be a good thing, if you have a source to get a forged pistons for the EA motors, then there will be alot of people that will love you long time.

As far as the rest of the motor, they are actually reall sound blocks. The only time I've broked a block is when a rod came free at 4K, and I knew that there was a problem to begin with, I could here it in there, it was just my own misjudgment to drive on the motor the way it sounded. Keep up the work, we'll help you out when you get stuck.

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My understanding of shotpeening is that you basically hit it just right, which releives any tension in the part, making it less likely to break when other tension is applied. I am definitely going to have this done on my rods when my engine is apart.

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i just got an email back from a shop and they said that the rods for the motor can be made but it has to be specially made and they will cost 700 bucks. that is a punch in the balls. i dont know i think im going to be looking into shotpeening my rods. 700 bucks for some rods is a crap load of money. shot i only paid 500 bucks for my car. but at least you know that the rods wont go first. and they do have forged pistons but he didnt give me a price. so my guess that is going to be round 2 for a punch in the balls.

 

email

"There is no off the shelf crank and rods,rods can be had but are

expensive $700

for a set of 4 also forged pistons are available.

Thanks,

Phil

Tech Dept.

Flatlander Racing

http://www.flatlanderracing.com

603-378-0090"

 

on the plus side for me i found a bad to the bone place to rally my car.

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  • 3 months later...

before you go, please read this:

 

if you wanted so badly to turbo a NA ea81 block, find some ea81 turbo heads and an intake(but ultra-rare) newer mpfi can be adapted(very similar in design, but injectors are in the head(ea81)

the ea82 turbo cross pipe and turbo will bolt on

 

a more cost effective planis to go with an ea82 turbo motor, complete with wiring and ecu. it will bolt to the trans with no mod, and fits nicely between the framerail. the only clearance issue will be around the master cylinder, just simply remove the distributor when you install the motor, them put the dist in.

 

but in ea81, you will have to trim away, or "scallop" the front crossmember, to clear the turbo crosspipe. that, or find yourself an ea81 turbo crossmember

 

as far as trannies go, use the rear diff that goes to the tranny, non turbo 5spd, dual range has a 3.9 gear

turbo full time, 5spds, and dual range has a 3.7 gear. lsd comes in 3.7 gears. the only exception is the xt6 which had them as an option(standard in 89) and legacy turbos

 

but if you use a 3.9 trans, a 3.9 ring gear and pinion will swap into an lsd to convert it

 

non turbo trannies have 23 splines(turbo 4wd autos too) but turbo 5spds and full time autos have 25 splines. all ea81 cars have 23 splines.

 

but there is a way around that, you can use ea82 lower control arm, strut, knuckle, and its bigger brakes with minor fabrication. that will allow you to use turbo ea82 axles with turbo trannies, or even xt6 axles and 5lug hubs

 

to read more on the suspension, search "rguyver" and trashwagon5"

 

i myself have put an ea82 (carbbed), a 5spd dual range, and ea82 front suspension and rear trailing arms, disc brakes, in my 83 ea81 wagon. all the general mods here on the board, but all of them in the same vehicle

 

pics of my setup

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon5/trashwagon5001.html

 

tw5ea82.jpg

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Oh - and the LSD's were 3.7 - you have to convert them to 3.9 using a ring gear from a normal rear end

 

 

You need the ring AND the pinion, because they are a matched set. Then you have to have the bearing preload, pinion depth, etc.. set up or the gears will chew themselves apart.

It is possible to put the LSD carrier in an open case, you just have to grind a little bit of the case out so that the carrier will clear.

And the LSD unit wont swap into the front :-(

 

And for some reason, even though *I* logged in, and my "brat" logged out, I'm posting as her.. weird.. (This is Andrew/Hondasucks...)

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