rocr1 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Just wanted to introduce myself. I just picked up a 2000 Forester for free. Well not totally free. It has a blown head gasket, bad cat convert, and needs rear struts that I am going to replace before I start driving it. It was a little difficult finding a repair manual for the 2000 Forester, but luckely Chiltons just released one today, so I have my order in. Well if any one has replaced the head gasket on a 2000 and has any suggestions please let me know. As for right know its time to get the hands dirty under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Welcome, well if ur doing headgaskets urself, i believe u need to remove the engine right? So u need proper tools so u can remove the engine and u need to torque bolts correctly, stuff like that. But im sure u already know that. ANd while the engine is out, change the timing belt, and other seals. Just to make it run like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 It's much easier to remove the engine since this car is not on the road yet. Replace the following Water pump cam seals main seal re-seal oil pump timing belt timing belt tensioners Since it sounds like this car has not had a easy life, also the timing belt idlers rear main seal That silly plastic panel un the bellhousing (if its metal your ok) Thermostat - subaru CLean out the radiator oil change tranny flush This sounds like a lot but its not. Do all these and your good for another 100,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 , bad cat convert, how do you know it's a bad cat??. some dealers say bad cat when it could be bad o2 sensor. cats cost more and they make more, just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Dude how'd you get that for free? Any leads on any more like that? Nipper your list looks like a winner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinsUBARU Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 New Chilton manual:headbang: Oh yeah, congrats on the freebie as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocr1 Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Thanks for all the great replys. and thanks nipper for the break down of parts. Well the car was my aunts and she got another vechical so she didn't want to put the money into the subaru, so I told her I would take it off her hands. johnceggleston, nice suggestion I'll check that O2 sensor out. Thous cat converters are expensive. The only reason I thought it was the cat was becauce my aunt said the check engine light came on and her mechaninc read the code saying it was a bad cat. But I totally don't believe what her mechanic told her. So i'll have to check it out myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cannonball Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Thanks for all the great replys. and thanks nipper for the break down of parts. Well the car was my aunts and she got another vechical so she didn't want to put the money into the subaru, so I told her I would take it off her hands. johnceggleston, nice suggestion I'll check that O2 sensor out. Thous cat converters are expensive. The only reason I thought it was the cat was becauce my aunt said the check engine light came on and her mechaninc read the code saying it was a bad cat. But I totally don't believe what her mechanic told her. So i'll have to check it out myself. The chance of a bad cat is probably nil to none. The O2 sensors are notorious for going bad prematurely albiet alot of times you can ride like that for a while before having to deal with replacement. Although you might as well replace both while your at it. Do a computer reset to see if it clears it out for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocr1 Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Thanks. Just to give everone a little more info the car has 125,000 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 At that low mileage the car needs a front o2 sensor, there is noting wrong with the cat. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferret Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Being in Rochester at least you are near one of the largest Subaru Dealers in the US, Van Bortals in Victor. I've heard many good, and only a few bad things about them. Their parts dept, by the way, is excellent. Been by there a few times. I travel to Rochester every month or 2 on business. The people I see there have good things to say about Van Bortals. Lets see 2000 Forester, SOHC 2.5L, MAP no MAF and 2 cat's. The forward one has the front oxygen sensor ( A/F ratio sensor used for fuel trim ), and a rear cat with the rear oxygen sensor on it. This is the one that usually causes the P0420 Cat Efficiency not within spec. Also note the 2000-2002 Subaru's have Cats that are known to have a higher failure rate than the ones older or newer. Ask any parts dept which cats he orders the most of. Best of luck fixing it up. It should serve you well for many miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferret Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Also when they diagnosed the bad head gaskets on the SOHC, What is the failure? Internal Coolant to Combustion chamber failure ( engine overheating ). This does happen but is more rare on the SOHC. Or external coolant leak, usually toward the rear of the head. Many of these can be fixed by adding the Subaru Coolant conditioner. Some really bad ones however do require the head gasket to be replaced if the conditioner doesn't stop the leaking or seeping. If your Aunt's car was involved in this recall, and has under 100K on it, Subaru will replace the head gaskets under the extended 100K warranty. Just more information for you to consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 It's much easier to remove the engine since this car is not on the road yet. Replace the following Water pump cam seals main seal re-seal oil pump timing belt timing belt tensioners Since it sounds like this car has not had a easy life, also the timing belt idlers rear main seal That silly plastic panel un the bellhousing (if its metal your ok) Thermostat - subaru CLean out the radiator oil change tranny flush This sounds like a lot but its not. Do all these and your good for another 100,000 miles I would do all of the above, plus: run engine cleaner trough it just prior to oil change, Fuel filter, transmission filter ( this car has a spin-on type),and fuel system cleaner(seafoam or simillar). John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocr1 Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Also when they diagnosed the bad head gaskets on the SOHC, What is the failure? Internal Coolant to Combustion chamber failure ( engine overheating ). This does happen but is more rare on the SOHC. Or external coolant leak, usually toward the rear of the head. Many of these can be fixed by adding the Subaru Coolant conditioner. Some really bad ones however do require the head gasket to be replaced if the conditioner doesn't stop the leaking or seeping. If your Aunt's car was involved in this recall, and has under 100K on it, Subaru will replace the head gaskets under the extended 100K warranty. Just more information for you to consider. Thanks for the info. Great stuff. The head gasket issue I'm basing it on what my aunt told me her mechanic said, also she said it would overheat and lose coolant fluid. I'll definalty check and see if she added the coolant additive, i'm guessing her mechanic had no idea of the additive and thats why the head gasket is shot. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 if it was overheating and losing coolant i wouldn't spend the money on additives. either replace the head gaskets or the engine. Thanks for the info. Great stuff. The head gasket issue I'm basing it on what my aunt told me her mechanic said, also she said it would overheat and lose coolant fluid. I'll definalty check and see if she added the coolant additive, i'm guessing her mechanic had no idea of the additive and thats why the head gasket is shot. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
live4snow Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Well when I tried to repalace the head gasket on my 99 forester, I did the water pump, the radiator and the timing belt and gears. But it blew up after 3000 miles or so so I swaped a used engine with only 12,500 miles on it so from a junkyard. I wish you the best of luck and welcome you to the forums. I learned a lot from here with only the search button. Just wanted to introduce myself. I just picked up a 2000 Forester for free. Well not totally free. It has a blown head gasket, bad cat convert, and needs rear struts that I am going to replace before I start driving it. It was a little difficult finding a repair manual for the 2000 Forester, but luckely Chiltons just released one today, so I have my order in. Well if any one has replaced the head gasket on a 2000 and has any suggestions please let me know. As for right know its time to get the hands dirty under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocr1 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 thanks for the great info. So this weekend I was reviewing the chiltons manual on changing head gaskets. It says you can do it with the engine inplace, however it is difficult. My question is has anyone changed a head gasket in a 2000 forester with the engine in place. I am debating on wheather or not to pull the engine. I know pulling it would be easier to get to the heads, however it looks like there is just enough room to to get tools in and get the heads off. Also the manual says to remove the cam shaft. Does this really need to be done? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferret Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Yup, gotta pull the Camshafts. The frame with the bearing keepers blocks access to the head bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocr1 Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 I see thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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