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What is proper salvage yard etiquette?


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Hi all, I read a lot about salvage yards on this board, and I've never been to one, but they sound fun. I mean, how do you know how a particular slavage yard operates? Like do they let you in and you yank what parts you want and then bring them back and pay for them? Or do some just pull the parts you want but not let you into the yard?

 

How do you know how they operate? I guess I could ask them, but I thought I'd get a little up front info first. How about any Web sites about the topic? Thanks! :burnout:

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Thanks rd, sounds pretty simple, I gots ta look around for some yards that have Subaru's, there's three yards within miles of my house. Maybe I'll see if I can negotiate for a 2 part minumum instead of the cover charge. git-r-doneeeee :headbang:

 

So would it be bad etiquette to ask them how much they'd charge for some part you want before you yank it, or do you just haggle with them when you get back to the counter?

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Prices should be available anytime, just ask. I've found it doesn't pay to haggle at most yards. Pull a Part yards are so reasonable that it doesn't really pay. Others will remember you and quote higher next time. Yards that pull the parts for you are usually more expensive than PaP yards. If you're not sure of etiquette, don't be shy, just ask.

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The cover charge at the most popular yard in my area is $1. You also have to sign in, I believe that is part of a waiver in case you get hurt. They provide A-frames and chain hoists to pull engines if you require one also. I believe the $1 is to help defray the cost of all the chain hoists that go missing and the little goodies that leave the yard in people's pockets.

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you gotta find one that lets you do that. pick 'n pull yards are becoming rarer and rarer due to insurance coverage debacles. mosts are converting to you go to a counter, ask for a part, and they pick it for you. which is no fun:mad:

 

its usually a dollar here too. but its hard to find the pick n pulls...

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If you've got a pull and save type lot nearby they are usually the best bet. The high volume places turn over cars fairly often so if they don't have what you need one week the next week they may. Besides pulling difficult parts off the junk cars gives good practice at replacing yours without breaking clips etc. particulary important with interior trim bits.

 

Many of the places that pull parts for you know their parts books and charge 75% of the cost of new. The pull and save types are usually much cheaper. For example for a total of $70 I got last weekend, HVAC control panel $12.99, Power window motor and regulator $24.99, Guage Cluster $17.99, Misc interior trim $2.50 ea., and the bargain of the bunch, Idle Air Control Valve at $2.50 marked as "misc engine part" The IAC alone made the trip worth while as that is a $380 part new.

 

Now my $1300 wagon feels like a $2000 car.

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I've never pulled an engine or a transmission, I am doing this completely as a learning exercise. I could simply take the car to Subaru and let them fix it, but I've always wanted to tear apart a motor and rebuild it. It looks like I will have to start with the transmission as that seems to be the problem on my vehicle. I'm not about to tear a transmission down as it is more complex than an engine, but being able to do the work at the wrecking yard has certainly given me experience with this particular engine/tranny.

 

The cost of the tranny and the power steering pump was $128 and they come with a 90 day warranty. I'll be returning my tranny tomorrow and hoping there is an AWD version there (I pulled a FWD version by mistake, DOH!). Any of the small parts/sensors I simply slip into my pocket, they can take it out of the $1 'cover charge'. :D

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Whew doggies that sounds like fun! I'm going to call my local yard about these potential opportunities forthwith!

 

Ok, so how about a serious but perhaps somewhat obvious question....what do you guys carry in your scrapyarding toolbox? I suppose it might vary depending on what you're looking for. Has to be light enough to carry, yet sufficient to remove any unexpected goodies encountered!

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Hi all, I read a lot about salvage yards on this board, and I've never been to one, but they sound fun. I mean, how do you know how a particular slavage yard operates? Like do they let you in and you yank what parts you want and then bring them back and pay for them? Or do some just pull the parts you want but not let you into the yard?

 

How do you know how they operate? I guess I could ask them, but I thought I'd get a little up front info first. How about any Web sites about the topic? Thanks! :burnout:

TEAR-A-PART has a great system. Cars are bar coded as they enter the yard, so when you go in the computer knows if they have your car, but not specific parts. Many professional "recyclers" visit it daily for more popular resale-able items from more popular cars, so it pays to go often if you're looking for something important.

There is a generic price list, one price for alternators, water pumps, pulleys, etc. I paid about $20 for a new looking alternator, retail about $140, $10 for a water pump, $5 for pulleys, retail about $70. This weekend they have a special on computers for $13. AND--you can return anything within 30 days for your money back!

You can bring in as many tools as you need and put them in a wheel barrel and wander around.

My local yard crushes about 45 cars a day, with a huge inventory arriving daily to turn over. I think they usually keep cars as long as a month, but I've returned for a part only to find my parts car gone, so it pays to grab what you can on the first visit.

I've seen quite few a Loyales and Legacies, but no Outbacks yet. Those are probably sold to higher bidders at high priced over-the-counter junk yards. They tend to charge way too much for questionable used parts. And when you pull parts yourself you have a better idea of their worth when you've seen the car's overall condition.

I just spent about $150 doing timing belt, Oil pump resealing, water pump, replacing some pulleys, new brake pads, rotors, alternator, and the only things purchased new were cam and crank seals. [Also-two brand new tires on rims for $22 each.] Great fun!

HAPPY HUNTING! :headbang:

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Whew doggies that sounds like fun! I'm going to call my local yard about these potential opportunities forthwith!

 

Ok, so how about a serious but perhaps somewhat obvious question....what do you guys carry in your scrapyarding toolbox? I suppose it might vary depending on what you're looking for. Has to be light enough to carry, yet sufficient to remove any unexpected goodies encountered!

 

socket set (3/8 and 1/2" ) couple of crowbars, screwdrivers, pliers, couple of combo wrenches (10, 12, 14mm) You know, standard stuff. . .

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there are about.... 9 yards that I go to locally.. only 2 of them charge me $1 to get in... 2 of them(not the same 2) are an over the counter operation and have higher prices and some of the ones out in the boonies have an extremely low turn over rate (unless the price of steel goes up) I carry lots in my bag, including pin pounches to get those axles, sockets, wrenches, pliers, vise grips, and some times even some PB Blaster.. I have a backpack for carrying that stuff in cuz sometimes all of it can get quite heavy, and carrying that and lugging around a rear end in the yard is hard to do.:)

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there are about.... 9 yards that I go to locally.. only 2 of them charge me $1 to get in... 2 of them(not the same 2) are an over the counter operation and have higher prices and some of the ones out in the boonies have an extremely low turn over rate (unless the price of steel goes up) I carry lots in my bag, including pin pounches to get those axles, sockets, wrenches, pliers, vise grips, and some times even some PB Blaster.. I have a backpack for carrying that stuff in cuz sometimes all of it can get quite heavy, and carrying that and lugging around a rear end in the yard is hard to do.:)

 

Which is why you take friends along to help you!:banana:

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The insurance company's pressuring the junkyard's to close to non-employee's is f'n Bull. There should be a system for people to sign a full waiver for any injuries sustaind. It's obvious it's dangerous, your taking a risk to save money, don't sue if you screw up. I'm dealing with a situation where there's rust free turbo wagons tempting me with their rear disk brakes and front hubs. It's a closed yard.. no go.

 

Part of it is the jackarses that go in just to smash stuff up. Yeah, it's a junk car, but if you punch the windshied out, all the usefull stuff in the dash just got soaked.

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there are about.... 9 yards that I go to locally.. only 2 of them charge me $1 to get in... 2 of them(not the same 2) are an over the counter operation and have higher prices and some of the ones out in the boonies have an extremely low turn over rate (unless the price of steel goes up) I carry lots in my bag, including pin pounches to get those axles, sockets, wrenches, pliers, vise grips, and some times even some PB Blaster.. I have a backpack for carrying that stuff in cuz sometimes all of it can get quite heavy, and carrying that and lugging around a rear end in the yard is hard to do.:)

 

There's a yard near my hometown that used to have an annual sale: "all you can carry for $100." Not a bad deal for one of my neighbours who hired a body builder to drag v6 engine out the front door.

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socket set (3/8 and 1/2" ) couple of crowbars, screwdrivers, pliers, couple of combo wrenches (10, 12, 14mm) You know, standard stuff. . .

 

sounds about right. add in a breaker bar and some type of 3-in-1 or wd40 for the rusty bolts and youre all set.

 

the real good ones have wheelbarrows for the trannys and engines

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If anything, grab the phone book and call your local/somewhat local yards to see which ones let you in to browse/pull parts and which ones do not. I've been rummaging through different salvage yards pretty much my whole life. If/when you find a yard that is easy to work with and treats you right, it's worth driving a bit to. In my area (KY), most yards let you in to look around. Some charge $1 and many don't. A lot of them will not let you just walk back and wander--they like to know that you are looking for a specific item(s). Even if you just want to wander around and "window shop", still have a few parts to list if they ask what you are looking for. Or, let them know straight up that you want to see what Subaru vehicles they have and what's good on them. If a salvage yard gets to know you, they will often times let you drive through the yard to go get your part.

 

Some salvage yards can be a bunch of snooty a-holes too. You learn pretty quick if there are any of those around. These are the ones that usually make their cash from selling complete wrecks for rebuild and don't like messing with little guys who just want a few parts that aren't going to bring any substantial profit. I stay away from those places. If they are busy and think you're not buying a big ticket item, they'll often tell you they don't have what you need when they really do. Most yards aren't bad, but there are some snotty ones out there.

 

The bad thing about the yards that won't let you back is that their guys don't always remove a part with the same care that you might. If you pull it yourself, you also make sure to get all bolts/brackets/fasteners that the salvage wrencher often doesn't or maybe even destroys in the process. (Some yards will just cut something off because that's quicker.) Plus, you pay more if they pull it usually.

 

I love going to the salvage yard and looking or piddling around, so you're in for one of life's great treats for gearheads...

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