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Engine Rebuild Part 2 Complete!


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Well as many of you allready know, recently I had trouble with my boost controller overboosting me to 30psi during a race with a 2003 Mustang Cobra. (I WON, even before it overboosted) Ended up blowing the passenger side headgasket and toasting Cylinder #1's Piston Rings.

 

The rings didn't supprise me since back when I first built this engine it was run out of oil and Cylinder's 1 and 3 had deep scoring and there was a question as to how long it would last, well I put about 20,000miles on it of hard driving/racing so I guess it lasted a long time given the groves in the cylinders.

 

 

This time I set off to do it right and I went any got a 89' Turbo Block. I transferred my Crankshaft, Rods, Pistons, Gen3 Heads over to the new block since I had my internals balanced allready. I put brand new Main Bearings and I used NPR Piston Rings this time instead of Subaru Rings as I was told they are better. Honed out all the cylinders to put a nice new cross-hatch pattern in the liners for the new rings and put it all back together. I also finally got the Valve Lifter Clearances right for the Delta 272 Cams!!!!

 

Everything is back to normal now and she is running stronger than before! I have a video comming soon. PICS will be posted tonight

 

I'm at 12psi right now with the TD04, but 15psi will be comming soon!

 

PICS:

 

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Here's the complete list of mods as of today :

 

89' EA82 Turbo Engine Block (Rehoned)

New OEM Gaskets and Seals

New OEM Oil Pump (Type B)

New OEM Water Pump

New OEM Timing Belts

New OEM Tensioners

New OEM Turbo Pistons (7.7:1 c/r)

New NPR Piston Rings

New Sealed Power Crankshaft Main Bearings

New Gen3 Cylinder Heads

New High RPM Valve Springs

NGK Spark Plugs & Wires

3-angle Valve Job

Engine Internals Blue-Printed and Balanced

New Delta 272 Stage3 Camshafts

Deleted EGR

MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil

TD04-13G Turbo Charger (2005 WRX)

WRX Turbo Downpipe

2.25" Stainless Exhaust

WRX Top Mount Intercooler & Custom Plumbing

Modified Turbo Up-Pipe w/Welded TD04 Flange

HKS SSQV Blowoff Valve

Perrin Boost Controller (Set at 12psi)

Heavy Duty 2-row Radiator

Dual Electric Fan Conversion

180F Thermostat

5-speed D/R Tranny Swap (3.90 final drive)

XT6 Clutch Kit

Mcculloch 6000k HID Headlight Conversion (9004)

Greddy E-Manage Ultimate Engine Managment System (fuel,spark,boost,WB02,MAP,datalogger)

Mass Air Flow to MAP Conversion

Autometer Vacuum/Boost, Mech. Oil Press. Gadges

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Very nice setup. Is your races at a drag strip, I would love some numbers. Also your #1 breaking satisfies a hunch about what goes where, when it really comes down to it. There's always a weak spot. I like the pics, never had an ea82 apart. Is that middle main bearing all one piece wrapping around like that?

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Very nice setup. Is your races at a drag strip, I would love some numbers. Also your #1 breaking satisfies a hunch about what goes where, when it really comes down to it. There's always a weak spot. I like the pics, never had an ea82 apart. Is that middle main bearing all one piece wrapping around like that?

 

 

Yeah EA82's have the THRUST Bearing and Middle Bearing together.

 

 

The THURST bearing controls crank walk.

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That's intereresting. My engine ubolted the crank belt pulley on its own going down the highway on a 2.2 ltr subes bumper :lol: (ok- it was a bit of road rage). The ea82 spun it off due to not torqued correct after timing belts. The "walk" is there in mine. I am certain of it. It is no doubt adding to the "crazy" adjectives I have of this engine in this car. I picture it balancing in my head and able to fly up to 10k rpm if intake was capable. I bet it is the sides of the middle bearing worn down- causing a frictionless float.I even had mystery clutch pedal play that refused to adjust- I add this to that middle bearing (it has been good for 18 months after the perfect adjustment finally settled in). The only lube would be what flies out the sides from the middle? Do you ever eat them in high performance?

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That's intereresting. My engine ubolted the crank belt pulley on its own going down the highway on a 2.2 ltr subes bumper :lol: (ok- it was a bit of road rage). The ea82 spun it off due to not torqued correct after timing belts. The "walk" is there in mine. I am certain of it. It is no doubt adding to the "crazy" adjectives I have of this engine in this car. I picture it balancing in my head and able to fly up to 10k rpm if intake was capable. I bet it is the sides of the middle bearing worn down- causing a frictionless float.I even had mystery clutch pedal play that refused to adjust- I add this to that middle bearing (it has been good for 18 months after the perfect adjustment finally settled in). The only lube would be what flies out the sides from the middle? Do you ever eat them in high performance?

 

I've torn down a few engines now, and I've not seen any thrust surface wear. The mains and rod bearings wear, but the thrust sufaces don't seem to. Not to say it's impossible, but it's at least rare. Easy enough to test - try to push your crank in and out. Likely you won't get any play from it.

 

Clutch adjustment has nothing at all to do with the thrust bearing. The transmission input shaft floats in the clutch disc, and in the pilot bearing. It is free to move and so would absorb any movements of the assembly anyway. It is this same effect that allows the flywheel to be resurfaced and used many times - ie: slight changes in the position of the disc and pressure plate relative to the transmission input shaft are not important.

 

GD

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I've torn down a few engines now, and I've not seen any thrust surface wear. The mains and rod bearings wear, but the thrust sufaces don't seem to. Not to say it's impossible, but it's at least rare. Easy enough to test - try to push your crank in and out. Likely you won't get any play from it.

 

Clutch adjustment has nothing at all to do with the thrust bearing. The transmission input shaft floats in the clutch disc, and in the pilot bearing. It is free to move and so would absorb any movements of the assembly anyway. It is this same effect that allows the flywheel to be resurfaced and used many times - ie: slight changes in the position of the disc and pressure plate relative to the transmission input shaft are not important.

 

GD

 

Like GD said, thrust bearing wear is not extremely common but I do have an engine that has a lot of horizontal crank movement. Its so bad that when I had installed it into my '78 Brat (EA71 engine), it had a bad rod knock, when the clutch was pushed in, it went away. Ran great except for the knock and the faint smell of burning oil:rolleyes:

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