daeron Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 okay, i have an 87 GL10 that came with a luggage rack on the trunk. The thing is currently in pieces because on one siderail the screws got stripped.. so between that and the rust, the trunk was leaking like a sieve. I got a new trunklid and now have it installed, but i want to retrofit the luggage rack onto the new trunklid. should I just get some nice, stainles steel sheetmetal screws, and an appropriate sized drillbit, and set to? is there any sort of sealant i should need? i dont think i have any sort of rubber to go putting on underneath the metal cornerpiece that attaches the lengthways member to the crossbar... thats been in the trunk since i got the car. I haven't started taking the components off the old trunklid yet, so I havent investigated how it is constructed in great details.. but if theres going to be anything to it beyond drilling and screwing, I would appreciate a warning.. should i use some sort of sealant at every screwhole just for good measure? I was leaning towards that in any case, but if its UNnecessary, I would like to know. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 bump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Set the rack on it and measure everything out where you want it. Mark screw holes, remove pieces and drill. Get MACHINE screws with washers and self-locking nuts. (If you can't find them anywhere else, go to a local airport. Any hangar should be full of 'em). Before you install, put a dab of RTV on each screw hole. Lay pieces down and install hardware. The dab of RTV seals every hole. The self-locking hardware ensures you will never have to do this again. When it's all mounted, run a small bead of RTV around the base of each part using your finger to remove excess (like caulking a tub only smaller). That'll keep water from getting underneath it causing rust. Lay masking around the base of each piece leaving about a 1/8 inch gap for the RTV. This will keep excess sealant off of your paint. Remove tape immediately after smoothing the bead. It'll be there for life + 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 goes with out saying, use the old trunk layout as a pattern for the new. Set the rack on it and measure everything out where you want it. Mark screw holes, remove pieces and drill. Get MACHINE screws with washers and self-locking nuts. (If you can't find them anywhere else, go to a local airport. Any hangar should be full of 'em). Before you install, put a dab of RTV on each screw hole. Lay pieces down and install hardware. The dab of RTV seals every hole. The self-locking hardware ensures you will never have to do this again. When it's all mounted, run a small bead of RTV around the base of each part using your finger to remove excess (like caulking a tub only smaller). That'll keep water from getting underneath it causing rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 roundeye: Thanks!!! I would have just used large sheetmetal screws.. what do i do where the screws go down into a channel in the trunk? i suppose drill a larger hole in the "channel" support so i can stick a socket thru there to hold the locknut? hmm, this may cost us TWICE as much in fasteners and paint and sealant than the trunklid cost me :-\ but we WANTS it, precious...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 roundeye: Thanks!!! I would have just used large sheetmetal screws.. what do i do where the screws go down into a channel in the trunk? i suppose drill a larger hole in the "channel" support so i can stick a socket thru there to hold the locknut? hmm, this may cost us TWICE as much in fasteners and paint and sealant than the trunklid cost me :-\ but we WANTS it, precious...... Yep, I'd make clearance to fit a socket, but that's me. I'll go out of my way to use self-locking hardware rather than use sheet metal screws and be back doing the same job over when they pull out/loosen. Got air? A die grinder would be most helpful with a grinding bit. Maybe even a Dremel would help. Don't forget to spot paint anywhere you drill/grind. No bare metal = no rust. You are in a bad area for car cancer:D . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Self-tapping sheet metal screws will work, but threaded rivets (especially aluminum) would be my #1 choice for this application. If the correct-sized holes are pre-drilled, and the area siliconed before installing the rivet, the housing will be completely sealed. Likewise, a dab of silicone on the threads of the fastener will seal the screw. Going with this setup will allow you to remove/reinstall the rack many times - as long as the threads are resealed. Sheet metal screws are usually good for only one installation. Removing the rack will strip out the holes in your sheet metal. good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Rivnuts came to mind, but not everyone has the install tool. Would work though, just like the factory roof rack rails on wagons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Well, the factory racks are fastened with regular (non-threded) rivets. They must be drilled out to remove the rack. Yes, a good rivetor tool might be a little harder to come by than the common Walmart special. But if you are doing a lot of retro-fitting, these things will pay for themselves in short order. You'll be able to do all kinds of "blind" fastening. Harbor Frieght is the place to go for an entry-level tool if funding is a concern. Eastwood if you want to go a step up in quality... good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Well, the factory racks are fastened with regular (non-threded) rivets. They must be drilled out to remove the rack. Yes, a good rivetor tool might be a little harder to come by than the common Walmart special. But if you are doing a lot of retro-fitting, these things will pay for themselves in short order. You'll be able to do all kinds of "blind" fastening. Harbor Frieght is the place to go for an entry-level tool if funding is a concern. Eastwood if you want to go a step up in quality... good luck, John My roofrack outers on my '85 and both '87 wagons came installed with "nivet" style threaded rivet/nuts. Similar to a rivnut but flush mounted. The center slats are regular pop rivets. (why, I don't know). I've used both rivnuts and nivits while working on aircraft and they use the same install tool. ATS (Aircraft Tool Supply) has some fine install tools, yes a little pricey, but a quality tool will keep you from doing it twice. (keeps all your hair in your head too:D ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 wonderful discussion. at this opint the craftsman in me HAS to say that i at no point actually wanted to use sheetmetal screws.. but i was trying to illicit some discussion on the subject. thanks for the catch on a bit of paint onf the areas i drill. I'll probably go to harbor freight to get a good holesaw for a socket cutout, and just use some SS machinescrews (maybe allen heads, i'll see) and some locknuts. I'm not planning on removing it, and I don't know if I'll ever even USE it.. but the car needs something back there to look right, in my mind.. the profile is the loyale's best view I think, and the rack completes it.. if only this car had a jawline to speak of!! I keep looking at the front end and dreaming of mocking up a fiberglass bumper cover/air dam to knock a mold off of....it would look better than a late 80's maxima, almost take on a squared off , trapeziodal headlighted 510/2002/80's BMW 3-series sorta look.... but as it is its just a simpsons-style overbite:eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Well, if you are sure you will never remove it, use some large enough pop rivets. If you go that route, use stainless steel, NOT aluminum. Aluminum rivets in steel can cause dissimilar metal corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 i dont think i have any riveting tools... not that i would want to use anyhow. ive done some riveting at a job i had fabricating hurricane proof sliding glass doors.. and I had an air-powered hydraulic rivting gun. That gun did break once or twice, and I had to do it the old-fashioned way.. NOT my cup of tea. I am a small guy, a weakling to be honest.. and my hands just cant take that kind of exertion repeatedly.. ESPECIALLY not with the tools at my disposal. I'm a nuts-and-bolts kind of guy anyhow.. and theres no such thing as certain. I may have a different soob in the future (this ones rusty) and i may want it on that... who knows? thanks for the thought though.. I may contradict myself and use rivets after all, we shall see. good to know what all is a need to do, whats a not to do, and what i *could* do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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